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Thread: Royal Purple

  1. 04-08-2009, 06:06 PM #1
    Korndogg
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    Royal Purple

    http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,bbb6mDbC
    1968 Camaro 383
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  2. 04-08-2009, 06:19 PM #2
    HY35F2T
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    oh damn.
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  3. 04-08-2009, 06:28 PM #3
    Holeshot
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    Ill still use it.
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  4. 04-08-2009, 06:33 PM #4
    Voodoo Chick
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    I really like Valvoline race oil.
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  5. 04-08-2009, 06:35 PM #5
    BigBadGTA
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    Mobile 1 full synthetic baby.
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  6. 04-08-2009, 06:38 PM #6
    Holeshot
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBadGTA View Post
    Mobile 1 full synthetic baby.
    I use that to.
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  7. 04-08-2009, 07:00 PM #7
    That_Guy
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    rp is crap.. ill never use it again mobile 1 all the way.. ive never burned oil before.. i burned a quart of it in 3k miles... ive never burned oil again when i switched back to mobile one.
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  8. 04-08-2009, 07:04 PM #8
    Voodoo Chick
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    I never had a problem with Royal Purple, but the price is kinda hard to handle.
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  9. 04-08-2009, 07:05 PM #9
    Holeshot
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7398455 View Post
    I never had a problem with Royal Purple, but the price is kinda hard to handle.
    Thats cuz you never bought it from me
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  10. 04-08-2009, 07:48 PM #10
    Yeehaw
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holeshot View Post
    Thats cuz you never bought it from me
    dan how much is it by you guys? its like 9 a quart by us, i run mobil 1 also but then again have never heard anything bad about royal purple two of my customers who do vintage racing told me they got better track times after switching to RP
    -Kyle

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  11. 04-08-2009, 08:04 PM #11
    Holeshot
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yeehaw View Post
    dan how much is it by you guys? its like 9 a quart by us, i run mobil 1 also but then again have never heard anything bad about royal purple two of my customers who do vintage racing told me they got better track times after switching to RP
    BCM members get better pricing then over the counter.
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  12. 04-08-2009, 08:11 PM #12
    Voodoo Chick
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holeshot View Post
    Thats cuz you never bought it from me
    Well....next time I'll buy it from you!!
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  13. 04-08-2009, 08:46 PM #13
    ThatWhiteCivic
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    Brad Penn FTW
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  14. 04-08-2009, 09:09 PM #14
    JC70SS
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    Royal Purple= JUNK

    Read up on LS1tech, The surge on Ls1.com or bobistheoilguy.com They all say it is crap from labtests and also Mobile 1 has been downgraded too from a level 4 synthtic to level 3. Overpriced oil to say the least(mobile 1).

    I am running German Castrol 0w40 in the LS1 and next will try Amsoil signature 0W40.

    Amsoil
    Redline
    German Castrol on found at Autozone on occasion
    Penzoil Platinum.....my choices.
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  15. 04-08-2009, 09:26 PM #15
    jbiscuit
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    RP has been junk for years. I'm actually surprised they are still around. True snake oil.
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  16. 04-08-2009, 09:53 PM #16
    Voodoo Chick
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    Anyone here ever try the zinc additives? I haven't yet, and was wondering if maybe I should.
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  17. 04-08-2009, 10:00 PM #17
    Holeshot
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    Zinc protects the lobes on the cam.
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  18. 04-08-2009, 10:04 PM #18
    Plum Crazy
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    5qt jug of mobil 1 is 26 bucks at the zone, i run that in the Hemi with an Amsoil filter, In the monte SS, i run Amsoil.
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  19. 04-08-2009, 10:28 PM #19
    Smokey1226
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatWhiteCivic View Post
    Brad Penn FTW
    Truf! thats all mine will see, as well as MANY MANY other's!
    "If you keep feeding a lion, then run out of food, you're the food.."
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  20. 04-08-2009, 10:31 PM #20
    1320PNY
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatWhiteCivic View Post
    Brad Penn FTW


    I work for an OIL company with a full-blown test lab.

    1.) The best oil is the oil that works and costs the least to achieve it.
    2.) 4.6L Mustangs (3V) are fine with Factory MotorCraft (Chevron) fill.
    3.) Pennsylvania crude oils .
    4.) I have always tested my oil EVERY TIME I change it.
    5.) Mobil 1 15,000K is good.

    No oils should be run more than 5K miles in WI due to the silica content of our environment. Our sandy shore and our dusty winds help our vehicles absorb contaminants that reach suspect levels by 5K miles. The oil may still have suitable TBN (Total Base reserve Number), additive, and life to continue providing protection, but the contaminants will be circulating an the combination of contaminants and shear forces of an engine can kill life.

    I'm full of all sorts of "useless" info on oils, oil analysis, thermal oxidation, cracked hydrocarbon vs. synthetic microstructure, shear degredation, etc. If you really want to know something, PM me and we'll do lunch.
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