Best sites for muscle info./learning?

[wikked]

So I've always wanted to restore/rebuild/own an old school, mid 60's - early 70's, snarling/roaring, ass-kicking car.
The only thing I really know about are modern cars with lots of wiring & electronics.
I want to read up/understand and how things worked back in the day with carbs & what the hell a dana rear end is, matching #'s, powerglide trans's, and all that fun stuff.

Also, where's the best place to find older cars for cheap? I wouldn't want anything that'd have a rusted/rotted frame, or excessive rust/welding needed. I do realize that I wouldn't find anything in that good of shape for next to free though.

I'm not looking for something to fix & resell either, that's not my motive.
My dad had a '60's-ish Nova, and my mom had a 70's-ish 442? Cutlass (that she sold in great running condition for $50 in the 80's :crying ), so I don't think they'd mind if I drug something into the driveway someday :D

Thanks!

[Prince Valiant]

First off, if you want something cheap and inexpensive, you can't go wrong with a disconova (mid 70's nova) or a 2nd gen F-body...and imo, to limit it further, a 73/74 camaro...if you want to be different and don't mind paying a little to a lot more, then do a same year TA's.

Part of the reason for those specific years is they are relatively light cars...in 75 they added some 400lbs to the f-bods :eek: Sure, some of it was likely things like the monsterous cat they had on those things and what not...but still!

But what you get is a sleek, affordable(camaros maybe...the TA's are generally a bit more pricey), stout chasis (no worrying about the famously weak manual trans of the third gens and rear diffs of the third and fourth gens) , with the affordablity of cheap chevy parts! (Again, the TA's will be more expensive in some regards in this dept as well)

Here's a chasis that can also be made to handle very reasonable. No, you won't stay with a lotus elise through the esses...but you WILL suprise yourself and can build it to exceed your own capabilities with inexpensive and readily available parts.

Even the interiors weren't the worst in the world...although some TA's had that AWFUL gold flake thing going...easy to fix. But clean, uncluttered, and what was, at that time, considered "european".

You want a bullet proof tranny? No prob...even if buying as a performance rebuild with no core, you are still looking at only 600 bucks. REbuild it yourself for less than 200.

Want to build an easy 450hp 383 SBC? No sweat...well built, with everything you need new can still run less than 3500 bucks with AL heads.

learn the in and out of carbs? easy.

Gears? less than 250 with all the parts you need, easy.

Fenders? carpet? seats? All cheap, all easily available. All you need to start is a relatively straight, rust free 2nd gen :thumbsup

But definitely get a t-top....there's nothing better than letting your mullet flow in the wind :goof

Certainly it's learning everything doesn't come over night...but it's not that hard. Just persistence and an open mind is all it takes. Generally, when it comes to old school stuff, once you learn it thoroughly, it'll generally make you better with the "new school" stuff as well...takes much of the mystery out of it and makes the "how-stuff-works" aspect far easier to understand and appreciate.

[wikked]

damn, that's a helluva start, thanks!
I've been browsing around eBay, but I'm guessing that's probably not the best place to start looking.
I'm glad replacement stuff is cheap... and I can't believe the trans prices! I shoulda done this years ago.
I'll probably hold off until next Spring though when I won't be living paycheck to paycheck anymore :D

<-- mullett-free, more weight savings :durr

[Prince Valiant]

Yeah...things are good. Cam and lifters ~80 for the low-end stuff that can still make good power up to 250 for custom grind tricked out stuff. Headers as low as 110bucks, coated with the best stuff, 350. Whole front-end rebuild, with poly bushings, etc, ~200bucks...on and on and on.

Best part: Top of the line fuel management (including "injectors" "MAF" "o2 sensors" etc) cost ~400 for the best, as low as 200 for good units. Of course, this is also known as a "carb" :goof

[Irish]

Jeff my step-brother lives in Arkansas.....hint hint.

[wikked]

heh Josh... either that's so obvious that I'm just missing it, or it's so un-obvious that I'm just missing it. Either way, I'm missing it :D

[Prince Valiant]

Jeff my step-brother lives in Arkansas.....hint hint.

heh Josh... either that's so obvious that I'm just missing it, or it's so un-obvious that I'm just missing it. Either way, I'm missing it He's saying he loves his step-brother in that southern way...I think :confused

okay irish...don't kill me :goof

[Irish]

arkansas= rust free bodies cheap!

[wikked]

rust free = good
cheap = good

<changes searches to AK> :shades

[Rat_Patrol]

1980 Malibu with a junk yard 454, dana 60, th400 and 3 stages of 150 shot. At least that's what I'd do. Or.........a v8 s10.

Otherwise all the old junk is selling for way more that it is worth IMO. Bought my car for 1200 as a 52k miles rust free compete car not driven since '73 in 2000.

2tons

[drrodder]

I shoulda done this years ago.

The prices are only going up. Don't wait to long or "CHEAP" won't be a factor.

[SSScottSS]

This is just a theory. Maybe right or maybe wrong, but here it is. I'm guessing some of the "less desireable" muscle cars such as those mentioned, may actually drop in value with the increasing gas prices. When I say less desireable don't take it the wrong way.. I mean in comparision to the pricey first gen. F bodies, Chevelles of the late 60's - early 70's, and the (now unobtainable childhood dream car General Lee :crying ) Chargers, Cudas, etc.

With gas prices going through the roof, I'd expect less people wanting to own/drive these cars, especially something as new as from the 80's like mine. I think as the gas prices rise, you would be able to get one of these "less desireable cars" for a very reasonable price.

If you can get a good solid/straight car from down south... do it. The added expense of transporting the car will be small in comparison to the cost of body work and aggrivation.

I also think once you get behind the wheel of some powerful, relatively innexpensive American muscle car, you'll be hooked.

[Rat_Patrol]

That theaory is kind of true, but not really. Most of the hardcore guys I know have been paying 3+ dollars/gallon for 110 for years. 4, 5, 6 bucks a gallon doesnt scare car enthusiasts. Remember, it's a sickness! :thumbsup

[wikked]

Heh, yea I already have to get premium, so whatever. :goof
I'll probably start hunting more seriously come spring (no garage), so I was just looking for stuff to read up on in the meantime.

[Nix]

Wikked I know this post went up in June but its kinda funny to me that you are starting to get into older cars now, me on the other hand Iam actually going to be looking to sell mine in the near future or next spring. I use to have a 94' Z28 (yeah I know guys an LT1) and I loved that car. Iam seriously considering getting back into a 4th gen. Classics are kick ass dont get me wrong and I love my car to death but my heart is with the 4th gens, my Z28 was my first muscle car and I believe thats what I would be happiest with. So good luck with your learning and even better luck to ya when you find that perfect car that just jumps out at you and grabs ahold of ya and wont let go. Happy Restoration partner!!! :headbang