Chevelle Dyno Results

[RM2932]

Well Ryan H and I took his car to a friends shop in IL to dyno the blue 69 Chevelle this weekend.

Here are the mods that I know, Ryan can post more details:
307 cu in
Holley 650 cfm carb
Dart heads
some sort of cam
and a 225 shot of spray


Here are the results:
http://www.cj-motorsports.com/temp/ryanhna.jpg

here is all motor: 330 horse, 293 torque

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/temp/ryanhspray.jpg

here it is on spray: 505 horse, 596 torque

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/temp/ryanhboth.jpg

here are both overlayed

[Prince Valiant]

Cool...but God almighty! A 307!!! why?

I mean, you get props for being different for sure....plentiful? Just looking for a cheap motor to break?

either way, fill us in on the madness :thumbsup

[Syclone0044]

That's pretty awesome; I definitely give you credit for an unusual combo; a small CI motor with a helluva nitrous shot! :thumbsup

[BAD LS1]

Ryan i give you props! But that 15.1:1 AFR for like... EVER on the spray is tgonna fook that baby up quick!! :wooo But it does however goes excessivly rich once the fuel shot catches up :confused


Your 13.0 after 5500 or so at WOT is spot on n/a however. But shes WAY lean down low yet too at 14.0

[69Chevelle]

here are the mods

short block...
2bolt main
stock crank 3.25 stroke
forged ross pistons
forged 6inch eagle rods

top end...
dart pro1 heads
bowtie intake
demon 650 carb
DZ302 cam
stock points distributor
edelbrock 110gph fuel pump 7psi
big shot nos plate system

307s suck! :flipoff2:

[Prince Valiant]

Do they actually make any off the shelf performance forged piston in the 3.875-3.935 range specifically for the 307? Or did you use custom pistons?? Or did you get tricky and use some LS1 pieces...or, heaven forbid, even mopar pieces in that range?

[69Chevelle]

thay are custom pistons with a 650 nitrous dome that was the way to git a 1.39 C/H

[Prince Valiant]

I'll go motor to motor against ya this spring....I don't think I've EVER lost to a 307. Even on my old 125cc bike :goof

Hopefully you're running a powerglide still :rolf

[69Chevelle]

I'll go motor to motor against ya this spring....I don't think I've EVER lost to a 307. Even on my old 125cc bike :goof

Hopefully you're running a powerglide still :rolf

Ok bring it on!!! ;)

4speed with 3.55s

[DFJ6000]

BLEH!!!! 307's arnt that bad, the one i had in my nova kicked some arse, it was no means fast compared to some of the sh!t you guys have but it did have some kick. very reliable as well. so im givin dude some props, i like 307's

[Prince Valiant]

well, he IS running the better of the two. Had he been running the 3.8 inch bore/3.38 stroke motor, I would have REALLY been stupified.

But the thing about a 307 is why, when a 327, 350, etc work so much better? And it really takes guts to go with the 307 as there aren't many, if any off the shelf high compression pistons to work with.

But many of the 307's shortcomings could be rectified with smart building...in his case probably notching the blocks to unshroud the valves would have been the single biggest shortcoming to rectify given the bore restrictions....

[jbiscuit]

nice output Ryan, but holy crap were you running that thing lean with the juice, but yeah tommy is right, that thing goes pig ass rich higher in the RPMs on the juice! :wooo

[Knyghtmare]

I'm thinking his fuel selinoid is ****, just like the nitrous one was originally... Thats what he gets for buying used parts! Hahaha

[jbiscuit]

how many degrees did you retard the timing with the spray?

[RM2932]

Well, the all motor dyno posted was at 33 degrees which was the best run for torque and horse. We had another run at 31 degrees that the car did not have that slight knock you can see from 3500 to 4500 rpm but lost about 10 foot pounds of torque at 5000 rpm with 329 peak horse. Also the A/F ratio was at about 13.6 rather then 14.0 in the low revs but still hits 13.0 at redline.

With spray we where running 24 degrees of ignition timing. The car was not missing at all from 4500 rpm and up. You can see it on the graph. Remember these graphs are posted at a smoothing of ZERO. You can see that during the beginning of spraying it there is one good hit of knock, where on the graph it makes a little circle at the peak. Now we just need to get the fuel to hit faster with the spray. Either it is the solinoid or Ryan wants to try running a EFI fuel pump with like 40 psi to the fuel soliniod because he is only running 6 psi to it right now. What do you guys think?

[BAD LS1]

how many degrees did you retard the timing with the spray?

thats the million dollar question i had on my mind too...

[UWILLUZ]

said 24 on spray and 31 on motor? i'd say maybe get the solenoid rebuilt or replaced. Also, check with NOS or whatever your brand is for the recommended jetting for the nitrous hp boost you want at the fuel pressure you are running. You can also hit up Metz Performance and he might be able to help you set up the nitrous system a little better. he helped my roommate get his system setup to run that 340 shot on the 500" caddy motor.

Chris

[MyWhiteZ]

OT: what did it take to get those zo6 rims to fit... those look badass and im trying to find a good set of rims for my chevelle (67)

[BAD LS1]

Well, the all motor dyno posted was at 33 degrees which was the best run for torque and horse. We had another run at 31 degrees that the car did not have that slight knock you can see from 3500 to 4500 rpm but lost about 10 foot pounds of torque at 5000 rpm with 329 peak horse. Also the A/F ratio was at about 13.6 rather then 14.0 in the low revs but still hits 13.0 at redline.

With spray we where running 24 degrees of ignition timing. The car was not missing at all from 4500 rpm and up. You can see it on the graph. Remember these graphs are posted at a smoothing of ZERO. You can see that during the beginning of spraying it there is one good hit of knock, where on the graph it makes a little circle at the peak. Now we just need to get the fuel to hit faster with the spray. Either it is the solinoid or Ryan wants to try running a EFI fuel pump with like 40 psi to the fuel soliniod because he is only running 6 psi to it right now. What do you guys think?


I heard you guys burned down a ton of plugs trying to tune it?

How do you if its detonating or not even when its not audible? Ive seen stuff have up to 10 degrees of KR on EFI engine and it was never audible, but regardless the knock was still there.

Yeah its NEEDS more fuel for sure!, that thing is in teh danger zone in all of them runs as far as im concernd and they only run leaner on the street, im gonna run a mini fuel cell filled with race gas, with an EFI booster pump to feed my wet solenoid on my car, prolly would work on his too.

[RM2932]

I heard you guys burned down a ton of plugs trying to tune it?

The car came in with 7 of 8 plugs trashed from Ryan sparying it during the summer. We put a new set in and tuned it all motor. Then with the first try on spray using the recommend jets (250) we toasted 2 of 8 plugs. After that we changed to a projected tip plug and went to the smallest nitrous jet (175) and kept the same fuel jet as with the 250 shot. The car ran perfect. The following runs we put in a bigger nitrous jet (225) and bigger fuel jet and you see the results.

[JC70SS]

big blocks rule! Good numbers on the spray, but I'll take cubes anyday.

[69Chevelle]

I'm thinking his fuel selinoid is ****, just like the nitrous one was originally... Thats what he gets for buying used parts! Hahaha


ya thats what you get BONE for buying a used Ls1/parts a cam that does not run!!! :confused