My Blog:Nissan Sentra hard to start when cold...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Hey guys, maybe someone here has an idea on what to look for next?

When it is 25-degrees F or lower out, our 2006 Nissan Sentra with a 1.8l and 83k miles is a PITA to get started. If you start it within 4-5 hours of it having already been up to temp it starts without issue. Only when it sits overnight is it a problem.

Basically when you crank it (it cranks perfectly fine, brand new battery) it sputters a bit. Do that enough and it gets warm enough and it will act like it actually wants to run, but you have to feather the throttle to kick the RPMs up far enough and then it will settle down and idle. When it is coming down from high revs it stumbles a little around 1800-1400 rpm and then drops into idle without a problem.

A little background, about 2 months ago it would start but the idle was erratic. Scanned it for codes and got a camshaft sensor error. Replaced the camshaft sensor (supposedly a common failure) and cleared the code and no more code, but every now and then the idle would do the same thing (basically upon startup rev to 1800-2000 rpm, start settling down to normal but stumble once or twice while getting there).

Now, here is what was done since it started flaking out:

- New spark plugs, OEM double platinum, gapped @ .044" factory spec
- MAF cleaned
- Throttlebody cleaned
- Throttle position set via procedure
- Throttle close position set via procedure
- Idle air set procedure run through
- Fuel pressure verified good
- Coolant levels are constant

Once it is running it runs great. No stumbles, no hesitations, no codes, great throttle response, etc...

I don't think it is a head gasket, since I have full heat and I haven't noticed a drop in coolant levels, with no smoking out the exhaust. Not to say it couldn't be a problem with the head gasket (another known issue on the 1.8l), but it has no usual "signs" of a head gasket failure. With the fuel pressure good, new plugs and no codes I am kinda at a loss. I don't have a jumper lead to test for spark because of the coil-on-plug design, but I can only assume it isn't a coil problem since it runs fine once it gets started (ie, the coils wouldn't get warm enough quick enough to recover from a bad internal connection).

If anyone has any other hints I would be more than interested in checking things out. It is a throttle-by-wire setup and I would have to assume that entire system is overly double and triple self-checking and would throw codes if it was a problem there. If the crank position sensor was at fault, shouldn't it throw a code?

I have done a ton of reading online and I hear of everything from O2 sensors (doesn't make sense on cold-start) being replaced to fuel pumps (fuel pressure checks out), to crank position and cam position sensors being replaced all the way to head gaskets/warped heads and the PCM itself being the problem... Sad part is that most of these are $600-1800+ solutions with most people being screwed by the dealerships (2-4 visits with them just throwing parts at it, which is complete BS).

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

[blackmage]

sounds like maybe a sticky IAC?

[95 TA - The Beast]

Yeah, no IAC valve on this motor...

Everything is controlled by the throttle-by-wire system...

I have an electric block heater on the oil pan to see if that helps out...

I also have the FSM for the car, just a huuuuggge PITA to go through all the various diagnostics for damn near everything this thing needs to run... I am thinking of swapping out the crankshaft position sensor as well, since I did the camshaft I should have done the crankshaft at the same time...

[95 TA - The Beast]

welp, figured it out... was a bad crankcase position sensor...

but, it still won't start... won't even try now...

reason: the camshaft(s) are out of time with the crank... unplug the camshaft sensor and it starts right up...

So, anyone know how to retime the cam(s) without pulling the front of the motor off??? I heard they is supposed to be a "trick" to do it on this motor... Just can't find a proper reference to accomplish it.

[Reverend Cooper]

well the cams dont just go out of time on a chain motor something else is fucked up.
or it has a bad ecm temp sensor its reading too hot to the ecm when your starting it causing the ecm to retard cam timing and lean it out.causing it not to start.

[86GUTLASS]

Timing chain is Prob. Stretched

[spooln30]

There is a TSB for long crank time #05-052C it's something with the FPR on the fuel pump. If this isn't the problem then I would remove the valve cover and check for sludge. If sludge gets into the intake camshaft control solenoid you'll have issues. If the t chain was stretched it wouldn't run as good as he says or at all, plus it would make all sorts of noise. Nissan chains are pretty good unless one doesn't change their oil.

[spooln30]

Also how did you reset your throttle body? Via scan tool?

[95 TA - The Beast]

I already reset the throttlebody using the factory procedure...

Oil was changed regularly and synthetic was used. When I pull the valve cover I will be setting the intake cam to the most advance position before resetting the timing.

Per a buddy who works on Nissans all the time it is a known issue with the 1.8l motors that they have headgasket and at times the cam(s) can jump a tooth. The chain on the crank is always where it should be (there is no way for it to be out on the crank the way it is designed), but they can jump a tooth on one or both cams. Rare, but it does happen I guess...

If the chain is stretched I guess I will be in for changing it. I will check the tensioner first... I am really hoping I notice that one or both cams are off a tooth. Would make for a simple fix considering you just have to pull the valve cover, the upper timing cover, use air pressure and set the intake cam to the most advanced position, insert an allen wrench to lock it into the most advanced position, ratchet back the tensioner slide and insert a pin to hold that and then adjust the chain on the cams as needed... undo that stuff and it should be a done deal...

If the tensioner is sticky or the chain worn I will have to assess what to do...

Once both camshaft and crankshaft sensors were replaced with good ones I noticed it wouldn't even try to fire... until you disconnected the cam sensor and then it fired right up with a cam sensor code... so the intake cam is definitely out of time with the crank at the very least...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Oh, and it has full fuel pressure in the rail prior to the fuel rails. Something like 55-58psi or somesuch at key-turn.

I already know the fuel pump has the infamous check-valve problem where pressure bleeds down upon shutdown. It isn't enough of an issue to swap out the pump yet, but if I figure out the timing issue and it runs good again I will most certainly have it on my list of maintenance items for next month. I found Bosch makes a nice drop-in replacement fuel unit including the level sender, regulator, check valve, etc... I just don't want to spend the cash on that right now without knowing what else I may have to spend money on to get it running... Hell I already have the rear seats out in case it was a fuel pump, so if it is a simple (and cheap) fix to get it running I will probably order hte Bosch unit right away and get that done before I put the seat bottom back in...

[spooln30]

Not saying the chain couldn't have jumped but if the chain were to be stretched it would make a lot of noise when running. Is it noisy when running? Before you do a complete teardown can you inspect the cam to chain alignment marks with the valve cover off? Have you tested the intake cam solenoid, maybe its pulling timing not allowing it to start. Just trying to help with what your stating here.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Oh, don't get me wrong, I appreciate the input...

It doesn't make noise while running. It runs pretty smooth, thus I believe it is retarded more than advanced.

I will be checking out the cam advance mechanism when I have the valve cover off. I am getting over a sinus infection, thus with this cold snap I decided to wait a little.

I should be able to check the timing marks, cam hydraulic advance and all that stuff with just the valve cover off. I only need to pull the upper front cover to pin back the tensioner to try to get the cams in time. That is *IF* they are out, but I am certain they are...

There is a little lifter noise at idle, but nothing to be concerned about. Other than that it runs good... Under power it runs even and quiet. *shrug*

[spooln30]

" There is a little lifter noise at idle, but nothing to be concerned about."

This is interesting because the engine isn't a hydraulic lifter design but a shim over bucket design. When the valve cover is off check the camshafts for scoring. Another possibility is a worn or leaking oil pump. Low oil psi could cause the what I call the VVTI intake cam gear not to work properly. Man there are so many different scenarios that could be the cause of the problem. Hopefully the noise you hear at idle isn't such but rather a noisy injector, some can be pretty loud. I've been wrenching for a while now and most issues with vehicles can be just an easy fix but often overlooked for the worse case scenario. GL.

[Reverend Cooper]

Or how about the timing chain is wornout and hitting the timing cover

[spooln30]

^ It would have to be pretty stretched out to be hitting the cover on this engine. Then at that point it wouldn't run as good as he has stated either.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, got the valve cover off today and inspected everything... Timing chain is fine, cams are fine, VVT actuates with air pressure without issues... Cams are in time... Tensionser is tight... no issues...

I swapped out the camshaft sensor again just in case the other one was bad. Nope, does the same thing... Car won't start with the camshaft sensor plugged in. Unplug it, starts right up.

I checked continuity of the grounds, no issues there.

How often do the PCMs on these things go out??? Is it something I can just purchase and put in, or does a dealer need to flash it for this car?

I will be going out and pulling every fuse and double checking again... but besides that is there anything left except for the PCM???

[95 TA - The Beast]

I pulled the battery for an hour, jsut to see if it would do anything different... As I suspected, nope... same business...

So, I started it with the camshaft sensor unplugged... then plugged it in right away... runs great, no codes... Took it for a drive, great power, good throttle response, no weird noises...

Drove it for a good half hour, all is good...

Stop back at home, park it, let it idle a little... perfect 700-750rpm idle... revs just fine, drops back to idle fine... no codes...

Shut the car off, let it sit for a minute, start it back up, same shite, no start, just cranks...

I then pop the hood, disconnect the camshaft sensor, start it, starts up, reconnect the camshaft sensor, got a code... camshaft sensor fault code... Clear it, doesn't come back (only came on because it was disconnected)...

So, can I assume the PCM is fooked? I mean I could just put in a relay that disconnects the cam signal while cranking the starter and reconnects it when the starter disengages. I will test it in the morning and if that works without setting a code, maybe I will just run it like that...

I really hate fucking hacking a solution to something that should not have failed... I have NEVER had a PCM go tits-up in any vehicles ever... Especially one that is running well with no "trauma" associated with anything...

I don't think I will ever buy another Nissan product based on this stupidity... I have never heard of Hondas or GMs or any other brand having this kind of ignorant problem... And it is pretty wide-spread per what I can tell online with a large number of people bitching about the same thing. Not saying that electronics can't go bad, but I would expect a car PCM to be more robust than that... I mean it can't be wiring since it runs great once you bypass the camshaft sensor and plug it back in...

Any input on any of this would be appreciated...

[spooln30]

Weird, since you are able to do this how does the wiring look and are you getting the correct signals out of the cam sensor connected while first starting? It's either the sensor or in the wiring. I don't think it's internal engine parts it's something electrical for sure. Where did you buy the cam sensor from? You said you bought a good one buy OEM only IMO.

[spooln30]

You will have to program a new ECU. You don't have to take it to a dealer but someplace with the proper scan tools. RK Motors on Holton Ave. has them. I've had a lot of faulty sensors, injectors, ECU and modules from auto part stores over the years. When it comes to these parts I will only recommend OEM parts. Just two weeks ago I got 2 bad spider injectors for a 4.3 GM from Napa. Installed the first one and got a Cyc #1 misfire, the next Cyc#5. The 3rd worked and they were the updated version. Per your FSM what does it say for a reading at the cam sensors connector from the ECU while unplugged?

[95 TA - The Beast]

Yeah, the sensors are from Orielly Auto... they look like the original ones, not the new metal can looking ones...

I know that autozone carries the OEM metal can ones, so I will stop there tomorrow and pickup one for the cam sensor. Obviously the crank sensor works since it runs with just that one plugged in...

If I pull the cam sensor out too far it will start but set a code. With it in all the way it won't start. What a huge PITA this stupidity is...

I have to lookup the P0340 code again and the diagnostics for it to go over the troubleshooting... I don't have a o-scope, so that kinda sucks, but I can do the other diags as a last resort.

It just seems like it isn't reading the cam properly. I did verify the cam end looks properly with the proper timing marks, just seems like the sensor can't read it, or isn't reading it properly consistently... I will also make sure there isn't something in one of the windows of the cam tomorrow that is screwing up the signals...

I will also go through all the grounds... already went through a few on the motor itself, but I will do all the body grounds too...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Oh, forgot to add, all the wiring looks just fine... basically outside of tuneup stuff (plugs, belts), oil changes, new tires, brakes, headlight bulbs and wipers everything is stock and original... I only *just* replaced the battery when all of this started happening, otherwise that was original as well...

[spooln30]

Since you stated unplugging the sensor starts the car I would test that circuit and the sensors output.

[spooln30]

Oreilly seems to have the worst electrical parts from my experience. The new sensor is it the same length?

[95 TA - The Beast]

It is COLD!!!

Just got done diagnosing all the electrical... It is all fine... Sensor to ECM, ECM relay power, power to sensor, ground to sensor, etc, etc...

Also pulled the valve cover again, double checked all the "windows" in the end of the cam are clear.

I cannot find a OEM sensor locally in stock outside of a dealer, and they are not open on sundays and I won't pay the $80-90 cost when I can get it for $50 online or ordered locally from Autozone...

I may just put a meter on the signal wire and while the car is running make sure I get pulsing from the aftermarket sensor... If so I think my only route is a new ECM...

Can these things develop single-bit errors where a reflash would "fix" the problem???

I know the 2.5l motors has a recall for a calibration issue where the crank/cam sensors could fail and in turn they would fry part of the ECM, so the dealers flashed a new program to "fix" those per the recall. If all of this stuff is the same parts/engineering I think it is damn piss-poor of nissan to ignore the 1.8l motors since common sense would dictate it could happen on those as well. Per the failure mode on the 2.5l, the camshaft sensor going out and taking out the input on the ECM would cause the exact same situation I am running into. If it happens on the crank position sensor instead the car will die. That is why they went to a metal-encased sensor to keep it alive in failure mode, but it doesn't fix the dying of the input on the ECM. The new calibration basically turns off the "read" of that input so that it doesn't overload in failure. Since the calibrations on the 1.8l have never been changed I can only assume either a) they already had that fix in from the start (which makes no sense as the same old code is probably what the 2.5l ran with as well), or b) they figured it happen so infrequently that it wasn't worth the recall.

[spooln30]

Call a Nissan dealership and talk to a Service writer and explain your issue. Maybe they can help and save you from buying anymore unnecessary parts. I don't know if Andrew still has a Nissan dealer but maybe Coop can send you to a knowledgeable guy over there.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Yeah, already talked to Gordie Boucher Nissan today, basically they have seen the sensors go bad and take out the ECM, rare, but it does happen. The new sensor design is supposed to keep the sensor from dying from heat and also from it taking out the ECM if it does die. $63-64 for 1/2 hour labor to reflash the ECM. Of course they "recommend" a new ECM vs a used one. They want $103 for the sensor, but I can get it from Autozone for half that within a day so I will get the updated sensor from Autozone and order an ECM off ebay and have it flashed if I need it. I am done fucking around with it... Never would have imagined an engine management design where a sensor can go bad and takeout the input on the ECM. I would like to kick the engineer that didn't think of that failure mode right in the nuts...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, screw Autozone since they can't order the damn updated sensor either...

I ended up ordering the updated sensor online, along with a take-off ECM with the exact same part number and configuration I have. Hopefully I can install it and do the throttle and idle calibrations and be done with it... If it has to "marry" to a bunch of other modules I guess I will be getting it flashed as well...

[spooln30]

I've replaced a good amount of ECUs mostly on Chrysler, Ford and I've done a few Nissans. The older Ford Escape 3.0 when the coil packs went they took out the ECU so it's not uncommon. Good Luck sorry I couldn't help you better.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Hey, I really do appreciate all the input...

Ok, so I won't be so harsh on Nissan...

Oh, and my Explorer Conversion van (basically a Chevy Express 1500 AWD) doesn't like the REALLY cold temps... was driving to pickup the wife tonight and hard a clunking in the front and the ABS light is on... Seems to have a clunking/grinding in the passenger front... Brakes looked good about 4 months ago, so I would be kinda shocked if it was those, but anything is possible... I am expecting it to be the wheel hub at the very least. Either way I already have new front rotors and all new calipers/brackets/pads already loaded and ready to install, so if I do the passenger hub (I already did the drivers front hub this last week) I will just do the brakes at the same time. Sucks tho since I need to wait until Friday to get some decent temps since the van is too big to fit in the garage (even tho I have 8ft doors, the openings are 7ft 8" and the van itself is 7ft 9" tall)... Unless I drop the fronts via the height adjusters and reduce tire pressure to almost flat??? Then again I need to measure the doors lift arms to make sure they would clear as well as make sure I could jack it up in the garage too...

Damn, forgot, I can't pull the Camaro out since it has road race tires on it that will crack due to the cold... fark... Oh well, I guess I get to wait...

Anyways, I will grab my laptop and go read the ABS codes in a little bit to verify what is exactly the issue there...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, that confirms it, got an ABS code of C0040, which is Right Front Speed Sensor... It comes back instantly on a code clear, so it is most certainly the front passenger wheel hub that is fubar'd... Got one on order already...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Wow, what a PITA...

Th wife took the Sentra last night to go see clients since the van was down... Made it to the gas station a mile away, fills up, car won't restart...

So, I am forced to drive the van there to see if it was something easy, no dice... Sentra won't start at all... Call a buddy, push the Sentra into a parking spot (almost got frostbite since I forgot my gloves I was in a rush), he gave the wife a ride to her clients, I arranged another car with family, I drove the van home, went and got the other car, picked up the wife and stopped back at the Sentra on the outside chance it would start with JUST the cam sensor this time and not the crank sensor...

Sure enough, started up, didn't let it warm up long, got in, had the wife follow me and drove the Sentra home. In the scramble I forgot to reset the codes, so it was in limp-home mode and barely had any power because of it... But, I got it home and later this week when parts come in I will move the cam sensor that obviously works to the crank position, install the new updated cam sensor and see if she runs... If not I will install the new computer and see if it runs. I have no idea if the 2006 will need a flash to talk to all the other modules in the car on the bus, and if so I will just disconnect the cam sensor with the original computer in and take it in and have it flashed...

Oh, and the vans front right hub is most certainly gone... Barely made it home with it making noise...

[jbiscuit]

burn it

[95 TA - The Beast]

burn it

Actually, I have read at least one case where someone did just that... Same set of issues...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, looks I am stuck going to the dealer, RKWorld won't program the ECM...

So, anyone have any decent recommendations for a reliable and trustworthy Nissan dealership???

I just want it programmed without hassles... I figure they are going to do the idle learn and off-throttle procedure stuff to get it running properly... I just don't want some place that is going to give me a ton of BS on it... I just have nightmares of them trying to claim this or that and basically just fucking me around trying to get me to spend more money... All while I know that there is nothing wrong with the sensors, wiring or timing... There is only one option left, the ECM... And I know the replacement I have works because it was in a running 2006 Sentra with all the same options with 22k miles that had the drivers side caved in... Still ran without codes pulling it off the flatbed before it was stripped.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, went to Gordie-Boucher Nissan in Greenfield. They did a great job doing the programming and even diagnosed it. Came back with their best guess is that it needs a new timing chain.

So, I go ahead and ordered a new timing chain tensioner, since it was much more likely that went bad vs a the chain stretching at 84k miles... I go out, pull the upper front cover and notice the tensioner is out almost all the way... Wouldn't ya know it, the chain is stretched...

At this point I have decided to just get the Cloyes timing set, which includes the chain, new guides, new sprockets (except for the VVT sprocket) and a new tensioner. Since the car has consumes a little coolant (about a resevoir full every two years) as well as oil (about a quart every 4-5k miles), I have decided to also go ahead and replace the headgasket and head bolts (since it is a known issue with the QG18DE motors that the headgaskets blow). For the headgasket kit and the headbolts I am probably just going to order a FelPro stuff, unless someone else has a better suggestion. I know I could buy the "no-name" kits for this stuff for about half price on ebay, but I question the quality.

I figure I will also replace the water pump and drive belts while I am in there... If the tensioner pulley bearing is worn I will change that out as well...

What sucks is that I now have a nice heated garage (probably the best upgrade was installing the HVAC system out there) that sits at 60 degrees all the time and I can heat it up to 70 degrees within a few hours, but I have so much stuff out there it is damn near impossible to get a third car in there until I can pull at least one of the sports cars out to move things around. This damn extended deep-freeze is killing me since I can't park either sports car outside in the cold because the tires would crack (they are really soft race compounds).

If anyone needs a new tensioner for a QG18DE motor I have a new ITE one in the box I would let go for real cheap... I don't think it is worth the cost/hassle to try to ship it back to the ebay seller in Texas...

[spooln30]

Find out if the OEM headgasket is a MLS gasket or not, then if the FelPro gasket set has a MLS gasket. If you don't know MLS stands for Multi Layer Steel and if they have a MLS gasket then only such gasket should be used. Now if they have a composite type HG and these engines are prone for HG failures I would find a MLS as it will reduce the chances of another gasket failure. The main thing when installing a MLS gasket is to make sure both the head and blocks surfaces are perfect. In my experience when I am using a MLS gasket I will have the head and block resurfaced to a Ra value of no higher then 25. Sorry to hear you have to go through all of this crap and good luck.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Yep, know all about the differences between composite, graphite and MLS gaskets...

Turns out they do specify a MLS gasket OEM. I checked and the Felpro PermaSeal specified for this application is a MLS as well. The Felpro version actually is one of the few that has a complete blocker coating (ie rubber coating) to just about gurantee a seal as long as the block/head are not warped. Basically the FelPro gaskets are more forgiving, which is just fine in an app like this that is a daily driver.

Thanks for the concern, it is appreciated. Just about everyone I talked to is shocked that it is a stretched chain at only 84k miles. I already stopped driving the car except for "emergency purposes" until I can get everything done...

I guess I might as well place my order with RockAuto and get it over with...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, RockAuto is now charging tax in Wisconsin... Total came to just about $250 shipped for everything.

I guess it will probably take me a weekend... I don't think I will have enough time available in one day to get it done. But, it is parked until I can get to it.

[95 TA - The Beast]

So, got the Sentra done... Used a Cloyes timing set with new tensioner, guides and new sprockets (except for the intake cam sprocket since it is VVT), new Felpro MLS headgasket set, oil pan gasket and front cover sets, a new flex pipe section (old was rotted) and even a new oil pan (getting the old one off was a major PITA since they RTV the fucking things on with super-RTV it seems and I bent a couple of hte pan rails enough to not want to deal with straightening them)... I made sure I used the gasket kit for the oil pan instead of RTV alone (I still used RTV, but now getting it off isn't going to destroy the pan rails in the process). And, yeah, I know they make a tool for cutting the pan away, but I honestly don't like the idea of no gasket from the PITA factor.

So, got it all done, even put in new belts, new idler pulley and a new waterpump...

Starts right up... Runs great... No SES light, no codes stored... Registered 25.9mpg on my test drive and it hasn't registered higher than 22-23mpg in the past 2-3 years... With some more highway miles I am hoping to see 28-29mpg like it used to...

This winter was really harsh on the brakes and stuff and I noticed the front struts have been leaking, so looks like I am going to do brakes all around and new struts all around as well...

For the brakes I figure I will use the Raybestos pro-grade stuff (new rotors, loaded calipers, new drums, new shoes, new hardware kit) and the struts I will use Monroe Quick-Struts (since the have a $120 rebate on a set of 4 right now). I also have been hearing what sounds like a rear wheel bearing making noise for a few thousand miles so I will just order a set of wheel bearings/hubs for the back... Total from Rock Auto is about $730 or so before the discount.

I am hoping after all this I won't have to mess with this car outside of oil changes and filters for quite some time...

[95 TA - The Beast]

Forgot to ask, any recommendations for someplace to do an alignment?

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, the timing set and headgasket snowballed into:

- All new brakes (rotors/loaded calipers/drums/shoes/hardware kit) all Raybestos Professional stuff
- New rear wheel hubs, Raybestos professional again
- All new struts, Monroe Quick-Struts which include the struts (Monroe OESpectrum or SensaTrac), springs, bearings, mounts, etc all ready to install as one assembly
- All new front suspension components using Deeza Premium parts (lower balljoints, inner/outer tire-rod ends, stabilizer bar end-links)
- New Airtex fuel pump

Basically since just about everything in the suspension/steering outside of front wheel hubs/bearings and control arm bushings is being replaced.

Since the car wasn't driven much because of the other issues, once I was driving it I noticed a lot of problems, such as braking issues, a leaking set of front struts, brake rotors that were just eaten by the salt-mix used this winter, rear drums that scrapped when actuated, etc... In checking everything out I noticed a bad inner tie-rod end on one side, a clunking over certain bumps in the front, which could be the struts, but since everything is so inexpensive it just makes sense to replace everything within reason.

Then I found that the fuel pump no longer holds pressure when the car is off (bad internal valve) and then found that there is a dead-spot on the fuel pump where if it stops on that spot it won't spin up (open and close a door and the shock allows the pump to spinup). So that was needed as well.

Between RockAuto and Amazon Prime, with Just Suspension and Advance Auto used with coupon codes I pretty much got costs down to as low as possible. Hell Amazon had one of the front loaded calipers for only $18 compared to $56 for the same on RockAuto.

The big issue with RockAuto is the multiple shipping charges from various warehouses. I could have scored some TRW closeout outer tie rod ends (originally $36 on RockAuto) for $7 each, but the extra shipping killed it... For only $3 more I kept everything Deeza.

So, when all is said and done I will have about $1375 or so into redoing everything. Not so bad overall considering I was quoted $1400 for just changing the timing set from a Nissan dealership. I still need to get an alignment done when I am finished, but overall it will almost be a new car in regards to running gear...

[spooln30]

GOD DAMN MAN! That's a lot of parts for that car. I posted about that TSB for the fuel pump on the first page. GL with her and it should be like a brand new car now with all of those new parts. Lol

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, after receiving a DOA Airtex fuel pump (wouldn't produce more than 10psi pressure), I used the online chat with Amazon.com and they overnighted me another Airtex pump. The DOA one had an obviously aftermarket casting for the case, an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, metal aftermarket temp sensor and an aftermarket pump. The replacement was an actual Nissan part with the Nissan logo cast into the top and bottoms of the case, OEM regulator, OEM temp sensor and Bosch pump.

So, that begs the question, was the first a aftermarket "fake" put into an Airtex box and returned and then resold?

I thought the Airtex pumps were supposed to be the OEM units, that is why I went with it.

Regardless, the second pump worked great, the car starts immediately upon key start so it obviously holds pressure well while off.

I gave in and ordered up new front wheel bearings and hubs to complete everything. I also was double-checking the parts and the Raybestos brake pads that come with their PG line loaded calipers are semi-metallics, where-as the stock ones were ceramic, so I ended up picking up some Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramics for the front. They are currently running a $15 rebate per axle, and with the 30% off code for Advance Auto Parts it brings the cost for the ceramic pads to only $11. Considering the loaded calipers from Raybestos were a $2 difference compared to unloaded calipers it isn't bad.

Now I just need to clear up 6 or 7 boxes of extra car parts from the old garage and I can get started on redoing the Sentra. I really only need to go through a couple to find the rest of my balljoint press pieces. I had them out doing a last minute project for a friend just before the move and by the time I started moving things my toolchest with the balljoint kit case was already moved over.

[jbiscuit]

You do know this is all for a Sentra right? :rolf

[95 TA - The Beast]

Of course it is... The Sentra is our most fuel efficient vehicle, it gets more use on a regular basis than any of the other vehicles, thus it is depended on more than they are, so why wouldn't I put decent parts in it?

Oh, that's right... Trolling again I see...

For a car that had nothing but minimal maintenance for the first 8 years of it's life and has been paid off for at least 5 years, to spend $1400 on it all at once to completely redo it isn't bad at all... If I get another 8 years out of it (which is more like us getting 2-3 out of it and one of the kids getting it as their "first car" after that) it is more than worthwhile.

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, the Sentra is done. Got it aligned this morning (the toe was the only thing out on it after all the new stuff) and I had to have the wheels rebalanced (seems they all were out quite a bit, very strange how the ride was perfectly smooth at all speeds before all the new parts and it was glaringly obvious how bad the balance was on all the wheels once I got everything done...

Brakes are so good you can lock them up on dry pavement (including the rear drum brakes with just the emergency brake handle). Had to instruct the wife to make sure she uses even and smooth pedal pressure and to not just jam on them, especially in wet conditions.

I also took the time to do a motor flush (for only 600 mile oil it came out pretty dark, but that just means it is that much cleaner internally), as well as a drain and fill on the transmission fluid using Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I guess a lot of Nissan dealerships use it as a "better" replacement for Matic-D fluid. The fluid came out a darker red, not the bright color of new fluid, but at 85k miles it didn't smell burned and I didn't notice any material in the fluid, so I am planning on doing another drain and fill in about 2-3 weeks, since only 4 of the 8 quarts of fluid comes out per drain and dropping the pan or even a full flush are not advised on these transmissions. Just drain and fill.

I also noticed a little ATF in the power steering boot that had the bad tie-rod end in it. Don't know if that was a coincidence, but I drained about half the power steering resevoir of fluid and put in Lucas power-steering stop-leak as a preventative measure. Never really noticed any fluid loss as far as resevoir levels go, but hopefully this is a "quick-fix".

In the end the motor keeps running better and better. When I was done with the timing set and headgasket it ran better than before, but still had some weird lope to it and some valve-train tapping as well as fuel injector clicking. I used some Seafoam after the timing set and it did a good job of smoothing things out. After I did the motor flush today and once I had it filled back up and back on the road there is no valve-train noise at all. Still some fuel injector clicking, but I am going to try a bottle of Regain fuel system cleaner, which I have been told works wonders to get rid of noisy injector ticking. The smoothness of the motor is way better throughout the powerband as well. I am up to about 32mpg on the highway and around 26-28mpg with city driving. That is one heck of an improvement from <21mpg back in December before everything went to hell.

[jbiscuit]

Nissan is going to send you a cute bowling trophy for your mantle for performing more maintenance to a Sentra than anyone has ever done :rolf