remote start and passtheft bypass

[88Nightmare]

Who has remote start/security system install experience? I have a few questions for you. I will be using a Viper 5904 with an iDataLink bypass module. Is there anything I should know going into this? Seems pretty straight forward. Looks like I connect the appropriate wires from the viper to the idatalink, then the idatalink needs a ground, 12 volt switched source, and one wire connects to one wire via the obd2 port

[95 TA - The Beast]

All depends on the vehicle, the bypass and the supported features.

Some vehicles it is the bypass/interface module that does damn near everything, from triggering the alarm, unlocking the doors, remote starting, etc... others the bypass/interface only disables the start interlock.

I have installed quite a few remote starts/alarms (like 50+) and things have only been getting easier with the integrated data bus links.

What year/model of car and model of iDatalink are you thinking of using? It kinda sucks, but the alarm and interface manufacturers like to make it confusing for DIY folks to help support their dealer/install channels. There is usually multiple configurations that will work for a given install and at times a few "hidden gems" in regards to a given interface that will do more than the others for a specific configuration.

The "programmable" interfaces are the easiest, since you upload a given firmware for your install after everything is already in and it marrys all the components and the vehicle they are installed in. Hell, those systems with cell-links (if available) are drop in, single set of power/ground/interface wires and just place modules where you want them propositions. One link to a laptop, configure it and you are done. The system alarms, remote starts, sends messages via cell-link for statuses, allows lock/unlock/remote start or third or fourth feature control via cell-phone etc, etc. with only about 6 wires hooked up to the vehicle. I have yet to do the "easiest" which would be all of 3 or 4 wires (ground, +12v, OBDII and if needed brake to disable the remote start), but I have seen the configuration, just not worked on one of those vehicles. Hell, I even figured out a way to run a digital siren trigger signal over an existing wire so you don't have to run a single wire through the firewall to the siren in the engine compartment. Talk about a drop-in and done add-on.

Then again, I have done installs where you pulled most of the dash, interior kickpanels and tons of shite in the engine compartment to get wires run... And those had upwards of 16-28 wires to run everwhere with the need to wire up an extra transponder key and leave it up inside the dash somewhere to remote start the vehicle.

[88Nightmare]

I have a 2005 Silverado with the duramax diesel, a Viper 5904 system, and an iDatalink ADS AL CA

[95 TA - The Beast]

Well, you have a Type 3 install and it should support 2-way data so you should only need the data cable, OBD2 and the ignition + between the iDatalink module and the alarm. The alarm should need power, ground, accessory and whatever you want for ignition bypass (usually just a Normally Closed relay that opens when the alarm activates)... Per the documentation the idatalink module should control the alarm and vice-versa for the truck... The features that should work are the remote start, the door locks (lock/unlock), heated seats and defroster control. It will also disarm the factory alarm and work to bypass the factory immobilizer.

You will need a USB to iDatalink cable to program the firmware on the iDatalink and you may need to setup a dealer account to get the firmware for your truck. Once you select your options it should update. I do believe they use a web-app to do the firmware load and configuration. Omega is just another brand name and they do.

Now, if you want any extra features, like interior dome light control, parking light control, etc, etc you will have to hardwire for those I do believe... I have a 2005 Express 1500 Explorer AWD conversion van and I had to for those features. You will also need to run wires to the engine compartment for the siren and mercury switch for the hood (so it won't remote start when the hood is up, a safety feature).

One thing, if there is any issues you may need to fall-back to the hardwire mode, which would suck since there is a ton of wires between the module and the alarm, but 90% of the time things work just fine (certain add-on devices I have noticed tend to interfere with the OBDII databus which necessitates the hardwire route).

[88Nightmare]

The firmware is already flashed to the iDataLink. Where are you seeing this "type 3" install? Do you have a link to instructions?