1994 Camaro Brake bleeding probelm

[Firefighter Z]

So who here has bled the brakes on a 1994 Camaro and have had success?

I've been bleeding the ABS Module of air and then going to the RR, LR, FR, FL until there is no air, then cycled the ABS for 10 seconds for a few times. Then I would recheck to make sure there is no more air in the system only to find that I still have air in the system. I already went through 3 bottles of fluid.

Is there something I am doing wrong? I heard of using a scanner if the BRAKE light is on, but it is not on.

[Wagonbacker9]

are you gravity or pressure bleeding?

[Firefighter Z]

The traditional bleed... Pump brake until pedal is hard and then bleed.

[95 TA - The Beast]

As long as you are sure the bleeder is closed before you let off the brake pedal, there shouldn't be a way for air to get back in...

In regards to the ABS system, you should only have to bleed that AFTER you do the rest... ie, you work your way from the farthest caliper back to the ABS unit... even then it shouldn't really have any air in it if the rest of the system is bled properly.

If you replaced the master/ABS unit, or if you ran the entire brake system dry (ie, bled without making sure there was fluid in the master and ran it dry), then you need to make sure the ABS unit hasn't been activated before doing the procedure, otherwise you will need a Tech 2 to reset the ABS before continuing. You can get around that, but it is more involved than I care to explain here. After the ABS is reset you need to bleed the ABS unit with a vacuum bleeder (ont that uses vacuum to suck fluid through the system to the open bleeder and has a large resevoir that sits on the master to make sure it doesn't run dry), a power bleeder that hooks up to the master and forces fluid through the system from the master, or just do it via gravity.

Honestly, invest in a vacuum bleeder (harbor freight sells one that uses an air compressor to produce vacuum that works nice), or a power bleeder... pumping the brakes is a PITA. Besides, if the master cylinder is fubar'd you could be getting air in there, in which case it will never bleed properly.

[Reverend Cooper]

well here goes from the mustang guy,on ours you bleed front to back,bench bleed the master install,bleed it at the abs unit by cracking the lines heading out of the actuator. just like bleeding at calipers,then bleed at wheels,the easiest way i have found is using what i call the r2d2 it is a pressurized tank filled with brake fluid that attaches to the master,no pumping needed and you just go threw the whole bleeding process.my guess is you have a huge air pocket in the abs actuator and with out real good pressure from a pressurized bleeder you will have a hard time getting it out. again this is from a mustang guy so flame on

[Wagonbacker9]

well here goes from the mustang guy,on ours you bleed front to back,bench bleed the master install,bleed it at the abs unit by cracking the lines heading out of the actuator. just like bleeding at calipers,then bleed at wheels,the easiest way i have found is using what i call the r2d2 it is a pressurized tank filled with brake fluid that attaches to the master,no pumping needed and you just go threw the whole bleeding process.my guess is you have a huge air pocket in the abs actuator and with out real good pressure from a pressurized bleeder you will have a hard time getting it out. again this is from a mustang guy so flame on
Thats actually exactly where I was going with my question, so it sounds like a good plan to me. May even want to go so far as to unbolt the abs unit so that the outlets are at the highest point and pressure bleed it that way.

[Firefighter Z]

Well I said fuck it with the ABS... I'm deleting the system all together...

[Wagonbacker9]

Clearly the reasonable choice.

[Gregor]

I had the same problem till I got this

http://www.brakebleeder.com/products/bleeder-featured/v-12-brake-bleeder-kit.html

if you want to try this let me know....