WTB: 99-06 Silverado with blown engine/trans

[Wagonbacker9]

Looking for an extended cab 4x4 truck with blown engine and/or transmission.. if you know where I can get ahold of one let me know. Willing to trade my running driving K2500 for it as well.

[BR3W CITY]

So whats your plan now? Saw the truck on CL the other day

[Wagonbacker9]

Plan A:
Find a silvy with a blown trans and/or engine. Put both of them up for sale once I fix the silvy. If my current truck sells first, done deal (for now.. lol). If the "new" truck sells first, flip it for a profit and leave mine up for sale, then pick up an Avalanche with the proceeds. If the truck I find needs an engine, I'll drop my cammed 5.3 in and stall it as well, then I'd probably keep it.

I just don't have time to mess with the fuel/cooling/electrical involved in the 5.3 swap. A direct replacement would be a LOT easier, and seeing as I have all the parts, it wouldn't be bad.

I wish this guy's phone number wasn't fake.
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/3270721349.html

[TransAm12sec]

His number is probably the one in this ad below; both posters like periods.

414.712-0138
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/3266991265.html

[Wagonbacker9]

Nice detective work! lol

Thanks, I'll give a shout tomorrow.

[BR3W CITY]

I just don't have time to mess with the fuel/cooling/electrical involved in the 5.3 swap. A direct replacement would be a LOT easier, and seeing as I have all the parts, it wouldn't be bad.
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/3270721349.html

Fuel system is a 1 day project in a swap to that truck, especially if you already have a return fuel line. Cooling is 2 radiator hoses, mounted to your stock rad. You can even leave the mechanical fan on. Electrical is the only time consuming part, and if you buy a swap harness, its plug and play. Only wiring would be interfacing stock gauges. "Body" electrical is just keeping the stock fusebox in place, since it doesn't have a body control or anything.

I get if you don't really want to do it, but a 90's silvy with an ls motor isn't anywhere near a time consuming swap. I bet you could do it in less than 2 weekends if you plan well and have all the parts.

Good luck either way, but if you change your mind its not as bad of an undertaking as you might think.

[Wagonbacker9]

Fuel system is a 1 day project in a swap to that truck, especially if you already have a return fuel line. Cooling is 2 radiator hoses, mounted to your stock rad. You can even leave the mechanical fan on. Electrical is the only time consuming part, and if you buy a swap harness, its plug and play. Only wiring would be interfacing stock gauges. "Body" electrical is just keeping the stock fusebox in place, since it doesn't have a body control or anything.

I get if you don't really want to do it, but a 90's silvy with an ls motor isn't anywhere near a time consuming swap. I bet you could do it in less than 2 weekends if you plan well and have all the parts.

Good luck either way, but if you change your mind its not as bad of an undertaking as you might think.

2 weekends is the problem. Its my only vehicle, and I need to get to work. I have a swap harness for the fans, so it wouldn't be terrible, honestly the fuel system is the worst part because of needing to upgrade from TBI to EFI pressure, needing to pull the bed, etc. I've done EXTENSIVE research on it so I'm very comfortable with what is involved and I just can't commit the time.

Also, the electrical is more complex as I have a factory harness that I reworked, as I need to supply power to the PCM, injectors, O2 sensors, ignition, etc.. I have a painless harness for this as well (3 constant and 4 switched circuits I believe, should be plenty). Realistically the only things I'm missing are where/how to route the steam port back, fans, and time.. time being the big one. If I had 4 guys to throw at this it'd be an easy weekend project (assuming they all knew what they were doing..) but I have myself and maybe 1.

[spooln30]

Love the old fashion string to roll up the windows. LOL. If you do look at this truck check the cab corners and rockers. They seem to rust a lot.

[Wagonbacker9]

Sold it half an hour before I called...




For $1300. FAWK.

Edit: Found another one I'm probably going to pick up in a couple weeks, $1900 seems like a ripoff but its really a great price honestly. White, 220K, transmission only works for "half a block". Other than that it looks clean. Rubber floor so its gotta be minimally optioned which is fine.

[Wagonbacker9]

Welp, found a white one up by waupaca... Had an agreed upon price, he was out of town this week so we were doing it after. So I'm sitting here with cash in hand for a truck that sold friday.

Cragslist asshole: 1 - Me: 0

Fighting the urge to buy this:
http://appleton.craigslist.org/ctd/3254680092.html

[BR3W CITY]

Hmmm, don't know much about that powerdyne charger......strangely it sits where i need one to....
If you buy that to put your stuff into....you should let me see the supercharger bracket. I'd like to see if I can Machine something.
I'll help you put that shit in :)

[WI_Dave]

I had a powerdyne on a 99 2500 (98 body style) We installed it and it was pretty straight foward. I think I still have a couple of the big aluminum brackets in my garage if interested.

[BR3W CITY]

ya, id at least like to see how they bolt on and what pattern the pdyne took bolting on. I'm curious if it would work as a pattern for a different brand head unit.

[Wagonbacker9]

From what a buddy of mine said, thats a belt driven unit instead of gear, which explains why it makes more noise. But if you find a way to machine it for a different head unit I'd be all ears (seeing as they're discontinued and all). To buy that one I gotta sell my truck first though, we'll see how the couple of interested parties pan out.

[Wagonbacker9]

Further reason to love craigslist:

Found another truck for 4K.. 86K miles on it. Knowing full well this was almost certainly a scam I sent an email asking, why it is so cheap, and if they had the stock wheels and grill..

I get this reply:


The vehicle is well maintained, never been damaged and it has 86,430 miles, a clear title, 5.3L V8 engine and is loaded with options. You will inspect it before the payment will be made, I moved to Williston, ND with my job and I have the vehicle here with me. The shipping and insurance are included in the price because I won a promotion at uShip(1 free shipping). You will also receive all the papers(title, bill of sale etc) in order to finalize the purchase with the vehicle. Email me back if you are interested and have further questions..

So I responded inviting them to ship it to me for my inspection! LOL

[BR3W CITY]

From what a buddy of mine said, thats a belt driven unit instead of gear, which explains why it makes more noise. But if you find a way to machine it for a different head unit I'd be all ears (seeing as they're discontinued and all). To buy that one I gotta sell my truck first though, we'll see how the couple of interested parties pan out.

Aren't most centri's belt driven these days? I thought only the bigger stuff like the f1/2/3 came cog driven. Either way, it would be interesting to see how it lines up. My concern is belt wrap and belt slip with where the unit would sit....would have to figure out a tensioner.

Sorry wagonbacker, I won't muddle your thread up any more, thats my bad.

[Wagonbacker9]

Aren't most centri's belt driven these days? I thought only the bigger stuff like the f1/2/3 came cog driven. Either way, it would be interesting to see how it lines up. My concern is belt wrap and belt slip with where the unit would sit....would have to figure out a tensioner.

Sorry wagonbacker, I won't muddle your thread up any more, thats my bad.

No worries about the thread. Chances of anyone responding to it directly are slim, but I put it out there anyway.

I guess I thought (because people regularly discuss oil change) that prochargers and vortechs were all (or nearly all) gear driven internally. I am far from an expert on the topic so that may be a bad assumption. I'm sure there are others on here who know better than I do.

And the Craigslist scam saga continues:


I would like to handle the sale using eBay for our own protection as they act as a neutral third party. eBay will keep the money until you inspect/drive the vehicle.
This is how the eBay works:
1. I will contact eBay and give all the info about this deal.
2. They will email us the forms by email - about the buyer's protection policy, delivery, and payment.
3. You will send the payment to eBay and they will notify me to ship the vehicle to your location.The shipping will take 5 days.
4. After you will inspect/drive the vehicle and decide to keep it, eBay will forward me the funds and the deal is done.
You have 5 days to test it from the day you receive it. If by any chance you won't be satisfied with it you will be fully refunded and I will have the shipping company come to pick it up and I have to pay the shipping back. If you wish to purchase it please provide me your full name, address so I can initiate the deal through eBay.
Good faith has always been my top priority and my most valued business approach.
Looking forward to hear from you!


As I said, I'd be more than willing to put up funding after inspecting the vehicle, but I would not do so prior. This is why craigslist is intended as a site used within a specific locale. So, as stated, ship it here.. I'll take a look, and if it meets with my expectations, I'll happily send you a postal money order after seeing photos of the title, etc, with your driver's license, and the seller section of the title filled in and signed, provided the address the postal money order is sent to matches the information provided. I'll also happily provide a photo of my driver's license in advance as well. This leaves both of us well covered, and the only potential issue would be the vehicle not conforming with your description, in which case you would need to figure out a way to retrieve it. For your reference, fraud committed by either party when a Postal Money Order is involved is a felony which includes mandatory jailtime.

If these terms are agreeable to you, then I look forward to you informing me where the vehicle will be available for inspection. If not.. I wish you luck with your sale.

Thank you.

Carl

[BR3W CITY]

Oh I didn't mean internally, I meant the actual drive system on the input shaft on the impeller. I'm sure there is still a gear assembly inside the procharger, otherwise I don't think it would be able to spin those rpm's without taking some sort of mechanical advantage.

[Wagonbacker9]

Couldn't find one blown up, but I found one with a shit load of miles.

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/Trucks/Tahoe/Tahoe2.jpg