Installed new hub setup all is true until I put the rim on...

[awsomeears]

Ok here it goes...

I ended up buying new BAER front hub/11" rotor 4 piston caliper setup for the nova, here is my issue

With a magnetic mounted dial indicator the hub is pretty much dead on ( technically .004 off up and down ) while I spin it.

Only When I mount my 1/2 spacer then rim and torque down 100ft pounds set my dial indicator to the out side rim edge and spin the tire am I 0.062 off, I can visually see when I stand back the up and down movement in the tire....

The only thing I can think of I'm running a 1/2" spacer, when I Torque it down its not finding true center as all the nuts tighten up...

I would also like to add I did push out the studs as they were to short and did press in a new set, they pressed in straight and seated visually straight

[wrath]

You're worried about sixty-two thousandths? Probably spin the wheel around 180° on the hub and you'll probably get a different answer.

[BigSnailBuick]

You sir are a perfectionist. Must be a German :P

[Reverend Cooper]

or the center of the rim that fits over the hub is to large causing the movement,or the lugs are bottoming out and not pressing against the rim and then tightening,or you have a corrosion issue.

[-stew-]

Doesn't sound like enough to worry about. I'm betting your spacers have no provisions to hub pilot the wheel and your non-issue comes from how the wheel is now piloting and centering off the taper of the lug nuts. Sounds like you've isolated the problem to be with spacer, so the proper fix (for a problem that doesn't exist) is to get rid of the spacers. I have home made wheels on my truck, and they have dodge centers. The first time I put them on my truck it rolled down the road like all four wheels were egg shaped even at like 15 mph. The center hole is bigger on the Dodge wheels and Dodge uses 1/2 in studs, my Chevy has 9/16's studs. The taper is different on the different sized lug nuts, and I thought this was the reason the wheels weren't centering. My plan was to make 9/16ths lug nuts with a taper to match my new wheels. Turns out the issue was the wheel not being able to pilot of the hub due to the big hole in the wheel. I was able to get the wheels to go one true by putting the lug nuts on four at a time and using a pry-bar under the tire putting the first four lug nuts on I was able to get the wheels on true. The truck strolls down the freeway smooth as glass now.

[awsomeears]

You sir are a perfectionist. Must be a German :P

50%

Ok you guys pretty much said what my bro CarGuy said, my rims are aftermarket and he mentioned unless your dropping big $ on rims they will not be perfect...

I have another issue and I think its Valid .... LOL

As you guys now know the hub is pretty much perfect, both sides are an exact .004 off, but once everything is bolted up including the rim my rotor is warped, I use the term warped as we all know is the side to side motion or left to right.

I'm getting .0014 on driver and .0018 on passanger

Enough left to right you can see it clear as day, I removed my old setup due to a pulsating pedal and those rotors were similar to what I'm seeing on my new setup, my bro did mention you really won't notice the up and down as there are so many other variables.

But side to side you will feel it in the pedal...

I'm calling BEAR tomorrow, as I did get the wrong hats that bolt up to the actual 11" rotor and I had to swap them over....

Whats odd is picture my Rotor as Clock, it would hush and go away on my dial indicator between 6 and 9 position, to me that is a short rotation to see 0.014 side to side motion !

** EDIT **

So I did some googling, seems as if there are issues even brand new about BAER rotors, here is a Youtube vid of the exact procedure I did, not me but the same tool same results ;-/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arQTPeUD4QY

[Gregor]

Are the spacers hubcentric? Pics would help.

[awsomeears]

Are the spacers hubcentric? Pics would help.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSP-WSG5L500/

exact ones I bought from summit...

I now think its not a issue, but now have the Rotor issue........

[BigSnailBuick]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BSP-WSG5L500/

exact ones I bought from summit...

I now think its not a issue, but now have the Rotor issue........

Damn those are sexy spacers.....I think I have to order them :) The ones Im using feel as weak as a cheap plastic

[awsomeears]

That's what kills me, I spent good $ and thses issues to me shouldn't be... I'm calling them today !

[WickedSix]

No rotor will be perfect...there is a stack up of tolerances between the rotor hat....to the rotor that can affect the run-out of the rotor... .002 " varience is likely well within the G,D&T spec for the rotor profile ( .002 is usually the manufacturer recommended limit at installation)

The thing I'd be asking in your shoes....are the rotors adequate for your intended use.... do they have the thermal capacity for street use? The duty cycle of a brake intended for drag race use versus a car being used on the street are very different. Other factors will contribute to the issue including brake bias, static weight distribution, dynamic weight distribution, tire rolling radius, etc.

[juicedimpss]

No rotor will be perfect...there is a stack up of tolerances between the rotor hat....to the rotor that can affect the run-out of the rotor... .002 " varience is likely well within the G,D&T spec for the rotor profile ( .002 is usually the manufacturer recommended limit at installation)

The thing I'd be asking in your shoes....are the rotors adequate for your intended use.... do they have the thermal capacity for street use? The duty cycle of a brake intended for drag race use versus a car being used on the street are very different. Other factors will contribute to the issue including brake bias, static weight distribution, dynamic weight distribution, tire rolling radius, etc.
he has the Baer SS4 setup,the same kit we used on the Mach 1 project(heavy ass car,sorta fast) they are oriented to heavy cars as well as hard braking applications. This is not just a flimsy drag race rotor,they are a thick vented setup7989

[WickedSix]

that makes the varience even less of a concern to me since there should be more than adequate surface area for cooling to prevent warping.... are the vents cast into these rotors and potentially making the runouts 'appear' worse to the eye as the cores shift?

[awsomeears]

I want to be clear, I just mounted them and TQ'd them down, never even used them or applied pad to rotor. Car is on jack stands.
A few posts up is a YouTube vid, mine are exactly like that with the same dial indicator. But mine are 0.014 insteadof0.010 as shown in the video

[WickedSix]

so axially you are seeing .0014 and .0018 and radially you are seeing .014?

[-stew-]

Can I ask why you're even checking all this?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

[awsomeears]

so axially you are seeing .0014 and .0018 and radially you are seeing .014?

Throw out my 1st issue.... Let's talk rotor only.

Rotor being spun goes left and right 14-18 thousands, just like the YouTube vid.....

I called baer and ill have a new set Tuesday !

[awsomeears]

Can I ask why you're even checking all this?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

Good question, when I bolted everything up and pads were in I have to check for even spacing between pads and Rotors, I just spun it and right away looked ODD.

Thats what promted me to get crazy

[BR3W CITY]

....Justin is your brother?

[awsomeears]

....Justin is your brother?

Yep since 1983 !

:)