Chevy Blazer Rear end

[Wagonbacker9]

Anybody know what the final drive ratio in a 6.5l blazer is? Or better yet where I could source a new rear end?

[BAD LS1]

Look at the RPO tag in the glove box, probably 3.73's and I think is GT5?

[Dr.Buick]

Anybody know what the final drive ratio in a 6.5l blazer is? Or better yet where I could source a new rear end?
rebulid yours

[wrath]

6.5L Blazer so one of the super rare GMT400s? It's probably 3.42s.

Gear Ratios:
Code Ratio
GU2 2.73
GU4 3.08
GU5 3.23
GU6 3.42
GT4 3.73
GT5/GT8 4.10

[Wagonbacker9]

Its a GT4, 3.73. I believe the only other option in this chassis was the GU6.

I don't have any of the tools or expertise to rebuild the diff, so ideally I'd just like to swap in a complete assembly. I definitely have the tools and skills to pull and axle and put in a new one, we just did a tcase swap on my buddy's trailblazer today.

I'm not entirely sure what the problem is, I just know I'm getting what basically amounts to a jackhammer sound from the back end, it was going away when power was not applied, but in a trip across town appears to have gotten worse, and is now constant when rolling.

[portponies]

I can rebuild it for you.

[Wagonbacker9]

Cost and timeframe? I don't really have a way to transport the truck or the axle.. I could offer a garage and space in the basement if you wanted to do it here. Hell, I could have it pulled and reinstall it. I just don't know the first thing about opening up a diff and getting clearances right when it goes back together.


I will probably pull the rear cover tomorrow to at least get a look at it and see what is going on.

[Slow5oh]

fritz does some excellent work.

If absolutely needed I got a pick up with an empty bed if it came to that.

[wrath]

Sounds like a universal joint to me.

But anyway, I'd just buy a whole set of gears on an open or G80 differential, complete with shims, and put it in your case. A little slop never hurt a 200hp powertrain. Just need a new crush collar, 4 quarts of 75w140, and a lot of brake cleaner.

[Wagonbacker9]

there is no slop in the rear driveshaft, and the sound cycle when slowing down is too slow to be the drive shaft, it sounded like it was about every wheel revolution, which is what pointed toward the diff.

[Dr.Buick]

there is no slop in the rear driveshaft, and the sound cycle when slowing down is too slow to be the drive shaft, it sounded like it was about every wheel revolution, which is what pointed toward the diff.

You get it out here and I will teach you how to do it! its EASY

[Wagonbacker9]

You get it out here and I will teach you how to do it! its EASY

I'd love to, but I'm stuck with wintering the GTO (great time for snow to finally come) and I don't have a way to transport either the truck or the axle.

[Dr.Buick]

I can get the axle.

[Wagonbacker9]

PMed.

[Wagonbacker9]

Pulled the rear shaft (thinking maybe I can FWD it for a few days), and it still clunked in reverse... tried to drop it in drive, and the rear end locked up solid. Backed up some more, and I got a half turn before it locked up again... rinse repeat, got it backed into the driveway again. Rear end is definitely fubared unless someone knows of a reason a rear end locks itself in forward gears with no input hooked up. Left wheel was definitely locked solid, I'm assuming the right was as well, it looked like the driver's side was trying to turn backward, as the truck was on a crowned road, more weight on the right side. I believe this truck has an open diff, last time I jacked it up without chocks, it rolled back, pass side tire turning forward.

[Wagonbacker9]

After some research, it appears that for the added cost of a $25 conversion u-joint, I can swap in a 14 bolt semi-floater instead of a 10 bolt. I see no reason not to pursue this option instead of rebuilding the 10 bolt. And from what I've found, 14 bolts are actually cheaper? Less demand because they break less maybe? doesn't make much sense to me.

If I can get a 14 bolt with a locker for a decent price, between that and the 1.5" lift block I'll probably throw in (seeing as I seriously doubt these u-bolts will come off cleanly I may as well!) I may actually be GLAD this happened. haha.

[WickedSix]

get a real 14 bolt (full float) and do a SAS for the front down the road. a 2500 suburban of the same period should bolt right in

[Wagonbacker9]

get a real 14 bolt (full float) and do a SAS for the front down the road. a 2500 suburban of the same period should bolt right in
Way overkill for what I want out of this truck. 14 bolt semi-floater is plenty. I'd rather keep the street manners of IFS too. I've got no plans to go wheeling.

[-stew-]

What did they put a six lug 14 bolt in?

[Prince Valiant]

Way overkill for what I want out of this truck. 14 bolt semi-floater is plenty. I'd rather keep the street manners of IFS too. I've got no plans to go wheeling.din't 3/4 ton of that era suburans have IFS?[/curious]

[Wagonbacker9]

What did they put a six lug 14 bolt in?

Some of the OBS 3/4 trucks and vans (what rhyme or reason vs the 8 bolt semi? no idea.. looks like most or all gear ratios were available with either hub). Vans are the same width as 4x4 trucks, but spring perches are different width, 4x2 trucks the axle itself is 3" skinnier (as long as you're swapping from 4x4 or 4x2 to the same, the width is the same between 10 and 14 bolt). From the research I did, the only differences (provided you have the 11" drums on your 10 bolt, 10" is an option as well on the 10 bolt) is the u-joint size.. and local auto parts stores stock the conversion joint from 1330 to 1350...

However, the guy I was going to buy the 14 bolt from wants to keep it with the front diff (for $400, not a bad price), but hes also got a 10 bolt locker in the ratio I need for $150. So... $150 to have my truck back running it will be. Upgrades maybe some day?


din't 3/4 ton of that era suburans have IFS?[/curious]


My truck is essentially a 3/4 ton 2 door suburban (even has the bumper cutouts), with 1/2 ton axles and springs.

So... yes.

[-stew-]

Isn't springs and axles what the difference between half and three quarter ton trucks? this is all so very confusing.

[Wagonbacker9]

Isn't springs and axles what the difference between half and three quarter ton trucks? this is all so very confusing.

The majority of it, yeah. But its got a 4l80e under it too (as discussed in another thread). I haven't done any research what so ever on the t-case... From the research I did the front suspensions between half tons and 3/4 tons have nothing in common.

[-stew-]

The majority of it, yeah. But its got a 4l80e under it too (as discussed in another thread). I haven't done any research what so ever on the t-case... From the research I did the front suspensions between half tons and 3/4 tons have nothing in common.


So it's got half ton springs and axles, but it's a 3/4 ton? IDK much about this stuff, i'm just trying to figure it all out.

[Wagonbacker9]

So it's got half ton springs and axles, but it's a 3/4 ton? IDK much about this stuff, i'm just trying to figure it all out.

No, its a half ton, It just got the 4L80e because it has the 6.5l. I assume it also go the bumper with the cutouts (shared with the bigger OBS trucks) because the cooling system is weak, to say the least.

My point was only that the interchange for the rear ends with the 3/4 tons (6 bolt) is as simple as a conversion joint because everything was built with common dimensions.

Alternatively, the 10 bolt yoke will bolt to the 14 bolt, but... why?

[-stew-]

No, its a half ton, It just got the 4L80e because it has the 6.5l. I assume it also go the bumper with the cutouts (shared with the bigger OBS trucks) because the cooling system is weak, to say the least.

My point was only that the interchange for the rear ends with the 3/4 tons (6 bolt) is as simple as a conversion joint because everything was built with common dimensions.

Alternatively, the 10 bolt yoke will bolt to the 14 bolt, but... why?

It's got a bumper from an old style truck on it? Like the old square trucks?

[-stew-]

Is your truck and old Army Blazer?

[Wagonbacker9]

It's got a bumper from an old style truck on it? Like the old square trucks?

This is still the 89-99 style... not sure what you're referring to.. the bumper difference is that mine has the holes in the bumper like the higher rated trucks. The 1500's without the 6.5 do not. See pic below:

http://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/pictures/VEHICLE/1994/Chevrolet/11427/1994.chevrolet.ck2500series.1885-300x189.jpg


Is your truck and old Army Blazer?

No. Civilian truck, just with the 6.5 in it. Standard production, they just didn't make too many of them with the 6.5 (plus when they went to IFS they basically didn't appeal to the K5's target market anymore)

[BAD LS1]

I thought the bumper holes were specific to the 6.5, even on half tons. I remember as a kid when I would see the bumper holes I'd say, "there's a 6.5TD". I know big block 25-35 k trucks trucks had a conventional bumper with no airdam.

I guess one could say these half ton diesels were the early "1500HD" models like was offered in the GMT 800's.

[-stew-]

This is still the 89-99 style... not sure what you're referring to.. the bumper difference is that mine has the holes in the bumper like the higher rated trucks. The 1500's without the 6.5 do not. See pic below:

http://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/pictures/VEHICLE/1994/Chevrolet/11427/1994.chevrolet.ck2500series.1885-300x189.jpg



No. Civilian truck, just with the 6.5 in it. Standard production, they just didn't make too many of them with the 6.5 (plus when they went to IFS they basically didn't appeal to the K5's target market anymore)

But it's a 3/4 ton blazer? with half ton axles and springs?

[Wagonbacker9]

I thought the bumper holes were specific to the 6.5, even on half tons. I remember as a kid when I would see the bumper holes I'd say, "there's a 6.5TD". I know big block 25-35 k trucks trucks had a conventional bumper with no airdam.

I guess one could say these half ton diesels were the early "1500HD" models like was offered in the GMT 800's.

That could be, and would actually make more sense (with the cooling issues they have). I never really paid attention to OBS 3/4 or 1 tons intricacies until this truck started prompting me to borrow parts from them. lol


But it's a 3/4 ton blazer? with half ton axles and springs?

Like he said, calling it a 1500HD is probably the most accurate description, but no, it is (at least officially) just a 1500 blazer with a diesel in it. I was speaking to a functional level, not the label/badge. To my knowledge there has never been a 3/4 ton 2 door SUV (blazer/yukon/tahoe) on the GMT400 platform. The fact that it was never a factory option on the platform but still bolts in was part of why I wanted to do it.


Here is the best thread I found for anyone working on an OBS/NBS and considering doing some basic upgrades.

[wrath]

You have a 1/2 ton vehicle with a 6.5TD and a 4L80e in it. There is nothing 3/4 ton about it other than it has torsion bars and keys to hold up the engine. It's not even a high GVW vehicle like the 14SF GMT400 half ton pickups (7600lbs GVW maybe? I forget.) It's a far cry from the GMT800 1500HDs with their beefier suspension and 8 lug 14SF. The 1500HDs were basically a wimpy front end 2500LD with a shorty box.

The 14SF is larger than the 10 bolt. I believe it's around 2" longer from tube centerline to trunnion centerline. So, unless you're going to lift it, it will likely need the driveshaft shortened. The distance from the tube centerline to the top of the spring plate will change (resulting in a lifted vehicle). You have to get new spring plates and U-bolts also. Keep the S44 joint and don't run a bastard joint. Most of the time GM used S44 on a 14SF unless it was a manual transmission (then they usually used a 1350). Don't forget to pay attention to spring perch location and shock mount location.

It's easy to swap, but not as easy as you think it is. I have at least one of every GM truck axle sitting around except for a disc brake 7.625, a large pinion 10 bolt (showed up with the 2007+ AWDs), and a 11.5". I may not have an 80s G/P series 14SF van axle anymore but who cares about 5 on 5 crap anyway?

The 8.5" 30 spline 10 bolt is a fine axle. It usually only breaks when it has a grenade-lock in it or when people do one wheel peels on gravel then hit concrete or asphalt. The GMT800 style fixed a lot of shortcomings including larger side gears and a beefed carrier. The 2007+ ones that showed up with the AWD Denalis and Escalades got a larger pinion bearing.

[Wagonbacker9]

You have a 1/2 ton vehicle with a 6.5TD and a 4L80e in it. There is nothing 3/4 ton about it other than it has torsion bars and keys to hold up the engine. It's not even a high GVW vehicle like the 14SF GMT400 half ton pickups (7600lbs GVW maybe? I forget.) It's a far cry from the GMT800 1500HDs with their beefier suspension and 8 lug 14SF. The 1500HDs were basically a wimpy front end 2500LD with a shorty box.

The 14SF is larger than the 10 bolt. I believe it's around 2" longer from tube centerline to trunnion centerline. So, unless you're going to lift it, it will likely need the driveshaft shortened. The distance from the tube centerline to the top of the spring plate will change (resulting in a lifted vehicle). You have to get new spring plates and U-bolts also. Keep the S44 joint and don't run a bastard joint. Most of the time GM used S44 on a 14SF unless it was a manual transmission (then they usually used a 1350). Don't forget to pay attention to spring perch location and shock mount location.

It's easy to swap, but not as easy as you think it is. I have at least one of every GM truck axle sitting around except for a disc brake 7.625, a large pinion 10 bolt (showed up with the 2007+ AWDs), and a 11.5". I may not have an 80s G/P series 14SF van axle anymore but who cares about 5 on 5 crap anyway?

The 8.5" 30 spline 10 bolt is a fine axle. It usually only breaks when it has a grenade-lock in it or when people do one wheel peels on gravel then hit concrete or asphalt. The GMT800 style fixed a lot of shortcomings including larger side gears and a beefed carrier. The 2007+ ones that showed up with the AWD Denalis and Escalades got a larger pinion bearing.

I was planning on putting a 2" block in it because I'm in for U-bolts anyway. All good info though. I still kind wish I hadn't found the 10 bolt for so cheap... but I can always upgrade when I'm not depending on it for daily driver duties.

[PonyKiller87]

If your still thinking about doing this I have the stock 14 bolt out of my plow truck, a 99 chevy pickup, same body style as your blazer. It has an open diff and 4.10 gears, huge drum brakes, 8 lug... Make me a fair offer and its yours.

[Wagonbacker9]

If your still thinking about doing this I have the stock 14 bolt out of my plow truck, a 99 chevy pickup, same body style as your blazer. It has an open diff and 4.10 gears, huge drum brakes, 8 lug... Make me a fair offer and its yours.

wrong gears, wrong lug... thanks, but I'm married to my wheels and tires for the moment. I could go to 4.10 (stepping up to a 285/75/16 tire so it'd almost be a wash), but I don't want to be without 4wd, and I REALLY don't want to screw with doing the front right now.

I'll get ahold of you if this truck ends up staying with me longer than I think and I start considering a SAS. I believe there is a ford dana 44 that makes a nice front axle for this thing. (no research done other than watching the powerblock episode on it lol)

[-stew-]

I took a floater today.

[Wagonbacker9]

I took a floater today.

Win.

Here are the tires I was picking up when the rear end popped. Got the fronts mounted in optimistic hopes that tomorrow around now, she'll be back in operational form. Notes to self: 1) 4x4 unlocks when the vehicle is shut off, didn't know that til now. Luckily it appears this type doesn't require the wheels to tur in order to engage 2) It didn't leak out of the back of the tcase until I moved it (had to back it up to move the wheel chock)... which I find odd because it is parked with the nose pointed down hill, and I don't think it leaked at all last time I moved it. 3) my duct tape cap on the back of the t-case didn't do SHIT. lol

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/34829be3.jpg

[-stew-]

Nice. What size? My truck needs tires, bad. Needs a lot actually; but tires are second on the list. Gonna look for some used rugs until I can sock away loot for wheels and 305's. It needs springs, so I may just lift it and go with 35's. But I don't wanna lose too much towing/hauling ability lifting it, so I may not. I'm unsure of many things at this point.

[Wagonbacker9]

Nice. What size? My truck needs tires, bad. Needs a lot actually; but tires are second on the list. Gonna look for some used rugs until I can sock away loot for wheels and 305's. It needs springs, so I may just lift it and go with 35's. But I don't wanna lose too much towing/hauling ability lifting it, so I may not. I'm unsure of many things at this point.

lolz. I wanted to do 305/70's but I found this set of M/T's for $200. With the side biters, they look a lot bigger than 285 IMO, especially compared to the rear tire pictured which is a 265/75/18. And technically its more like $350 if you count the axle I blew in the process of getting em. And I paid 140 for the wheels, and spent probably 3 hours refurbishing them.


wrong gears, wrong lug... thanks, but I'm married to my wheels and tires for the moment. I could go to 4.10 (stepping up to a 285/75/16 tire so it'd almost be a wash), but I don't want to be without 4wd, and I REALLY don't want to screw with doing the front right now.

I'll get ahold of you if this truck ends up staying with me longer than I think and I start considering a SAS. I believe there is a ford dana 44 that makes a nice front axle for this thing. (no research done other than watching the powerblock episode on it lol)

[Wagonbacker9]

So, the guy I was going to but a 10 bolt from for $150 got plastered last night, and didn't feel like pulling the axle, so he sold me the 14 bolt he had (reported 75K on it) for $200. I'm super happy to report, the 14 bolt is in and running. I installed it with a 2" lift block and at near full droop, it looked like the pinion angle and slip yoke looked good. Did well on a test drive around the block. Truck has a bit of rake now, but I'll jack the torsion bars a bit to balance out some of that.

Had some minor complications which were fixable (broken brake line, frozen rotor, missing 1 u-bolt strap), only open issues are: the driver's side bleader broke off, so its unbled on that wheel and brakes are spongy, and I did not hook up the e-brakes.

That axle is one heavy bitch (I've read anywhere between 330 and 550. I can handle the 10 bolt on my own (those of you who've met me know I'm in the "lanky fucker" category). Getting the 14 bolt under it and bolted up with nothing but a pair of floor jacks (buddy with a trans jack showed up about 2 hours after it was bolted in) on my own was... a challenge.

New tires make for an interesting vibratory sensation at low speeds... so thats cool. lol

[Wagonbacker9]

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/d4c2aac3.jpg

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/8a0316fe.jpg

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/0c78682d.jpg

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/6f265c94.jpg

[Wagonbacker9]

So, I now have a slow drip out the rear output of the T-case. Anyone know if this is just fluid pooled back there from when I moved it around with no rear shaft, or if I may have buggered up a seal? I've put about 25 miles on it since reinstalling the shaft and this morning there was a new puddle in my driveway, next the the old one from yesterday...

Probably going to blast it with brake cleaner and see if it comes back but thoughts in the meantime would be super.

[PonyKiller87]

Probably the seal, but thats a fairly easy one to change. Just yank it out and tap a new one in.

[Wagonbacker9]

Probably the seal, but thats a fairly easy one to change. Just yank it out and tap a new one in.

No parts removal (aside form obviously the DS) Pfft.. thats a winner.

[-stew-]

I smell this snowballing into ""This guy on CL has a 205 and TH400..." Then "this guy on CL has a D44 and some 52's..."

Five bucks says it's slutted out by March!!! :thumbsup

[Wagonbacker9]

I smell this snowballing into ""This guy on CL has a 205 and TH400..." Then "this guy on CL has a D44 and some 52's..."

Five bucks says it's slutted out by March!!! :thumbsup

rofl. Not doing any work I don't have to. Theres no way I would have swapped in a 14 bolt if the axle hadn't failed. NONE. Didn't even know the 14 bolt was a direct swap prior to it failing.

And you forgot about the guy on CL with a 5.3! lol

[wrath]

Get the fancy expensive seal with the sock on it.

Chances are, the seal is leaking because the shaft is pushed into the case more than it used to be and is running on rust. When you remove the driveshaft, clean the slip yoke up with some emery cloth. I'd wait a couple weeks before I changed the seal so you don't mess up the new seal also.

[Wagonbacker9]

Get the fancy expensive seal with the sock on it.

Chances are, the seal is leaking because the shaft is pushed into the case more than it used to be and is running on rust. When you remove the driveshaft, clean the slip yoke up with some emery cloth. I'd wait a couple weeks before I changed the seal so you don't mess up the new seal also.

Yeah, i was looking at it while I was under there and I see 2 ridges on the shaft. One where I assume it used to bottom out, and a larger diameter shoulder about 3/8" further back where I'm assuming the new bottom-out location is. I backed the truck into the driveway last night and it looks like I only got a couple of drips, instead of the 5" puddle, so this is a minor enough leak that I see no need to panic.

[Wagonbacker9]

Ordered up new 2" lift springs (cheaper than OE replacements) to replace the broken leaves I discovered... Should stop me from having to disconnect the U-joint in the process of fixing the seal as well.

[Wagonbacker9]

Pretty sure this thing is getting scrapped in short order. The engine is starting to smoke consistently, and there is either a starter or a flex-plate problem, as it wouldn't turn over until about the 3rd try, and after 3 tries now, its not moving.

[PonyKiller87]

Sounds like a 6.5 TD to me.

Smoke is probably oil blowing by at the turbo because the stock turbo sucks.

Flywheel isn't to hard to do, we did so many of them in the 6.5 non turbo Hummers that we had it down to a science. In a hummer you Get some 4 or 5" long bolts, same thread as the bell housing bolts, take the bell housing bolts out one at a time and put these in. Then take the tranny mount off and unbolt the converter from the flex plate. Slide the tranny back about 2" on the long bolts that you just put in. Now you can get to the flex plate bolts on the back of the crank, replace the flex plate, shove the tranny back in and bolt it all back together. Not sure if this will work on a blazer though, you won't be able to put the long bolts in the top 2 bell housing bolt holes and I'm not sure how far back you can slide the tranny, you may have to let the ass end of the tranny sag a little to get it to slide back far enough.

[Wagonbacker9]

the bushing in the end of the starter went to shit, so I'm confident that is my starting issue. getting the power cable off the starter has proven to be a challenge though.

[PonyKiller87]

If your replacing the starter just use a hammer/chisel and snap the terminal off.

When you have the starter off try and inspect the fly wheel, could be a combination of the two problems. We seen alot of them with broken welds between the center and the teeth and sometimes whole chunks of the teeth part missing.

[Wagonbacker9]

Teeth look good (surprisingly good for 203K miles and a hard starting condition in the cold actually). That was the other reason for pulling the starter. I checked the flex plate before I even noticed that the starter bushing was FUBAR.

I did however get the power cable off. ended up jamming a wrench up there and turning the starter with a channel locks. Definitely not pretty, but it got the job done.

I also got a trade offer on a rust free 5.7 93 K2500 with rebuilt engine and trans, which I am hopefully going to trade off for this week... so I'll have NEW issues to tackle lol. Hopefully ones that don't make me worry for the health of my engine. I really would prefer a truck, buying a 2-door blazer was rather short-sighted.

[PonyKiller87]

Yeah if you can get it to run decent those things a rare enough that they will draw decent money/trades.

[Wagonbacker9]

Its always run well for me.. aside from needing the axle, starter, and alt... but the smoking issue is more than I want to take on, and as you said, SOMEONE wants it enough to overlook it needing work (and PAINT!) lol.

[Wagonbacker9]

She runs once again. Smokes like hell at idle (oddly not under load?) I believe its burning coolant.

[Wagonbacker9]

Traded her off for a 93 ext cab 2500... runs and drives solid, I think that head gasket woulda been a nightmare.

[BR3W CITY]

lol I saw it up on CL a little bit back when you posted this stuff. Its a shame tho, because I LOVE 2dr blazers (I've owned too many). The modern market does not make any BIG 2dr vehicles anymore in that segment. I guess its the perfect mix of impracticality. Too big to be efficient, too few doors for a family.

[Wagonbacker9]

lol I saw it up on CL a little bit back when you posted this stuff. Its a shame tho, because I LOVE 2dr blazers (I've owned too many). The modern market does not make any BIG 2dr vehicles anymore in that segment. I guess its the perfect mix of impracticality. Too big to be efficient, too few doors for a family.

I thought I wanted one really badly.. (really I wanted an 88-91, but couldn't find any for a good price) but after driving it for just a few days I realized that it really was exactly as you say, a perfect mix of impracticality. That said, basically now I have a smaller back seat and a cargo area. LOL

Here is its replacement following a 2.5" lift block and a torsion bar crank.

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/K2500/IMG_0983.jpg

[-stew-]

>2500 badges
>Six lug axles
>wtf.jpg

[Wagonbacker9]

>2500 badges
>Six lug axles
>wtf.jpg

GVWR 7200 lbs. instead of the 8600 lbs of the 8 lug variant. Ironically this has the exact axle under it from the factory that I swapped into the blazer.

[Wagonbacker9]

Finally pulled the rear end apart...

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/7df05b1d.jpg

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/42cac71d.jpg

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/0a5dda64.jpg

http://i921.photobucket.com/albums/ad51/Wagonbacker9/be0efa85.jpg

[wrath]

Looks like one too many one-wheel-peels.

[Wagonbacker9]

it popped when I was cruising on the freeway... I never abused it. Diesels do shitty burnouts anyway.

350-Z28 may be able to speak to how it was treated prior to my ownership. The fluid was clean... you know, other than the shards.