Any Suspension & Muncie 4-speed guru's in Milwaukee ?

[awsomeears]

Looking for two types of well knowledgeable shops to Inspect my setup, one to just go over the suspension as a whole, and one to tripple check my pedal and shifter linkage on my M20 2:56 ratio 4-speed trans:thumbsup

More or less someone who's been around the block that can offer me thoughts.

I Spent the whole day going over wiring and bolts throughout the car, adding lock-tite where I feel there should be some and so on.

Thanks guys :thumbsup

[Dr.Buick]

if you want to bring it out I would be more than happy to throw it on a lift and check it out

[jbiscuit]

I know muncies pretty well. What are you trying to sort out on it? If you want to bring it by you can

[awsomeears]

if you want to bring it out I would be more than happy to throw it on a lift and check it out

Thank you for the offer as you are very knowledgeable, but the distance is quite far for me. I'm assuming your shop is in Slinger....




I know muncies pretty well. What are you trying to sort out on it? If you want to bring it by you can

As far as sort out it would mainly be inspecting clutch fork and pivot point locations, it has an 11" clutch ( not sure if that is average ) and dam she's a beast to press in LOL... lot of things are new to me just want to comb over everything and not assume its Good To Go :)

[jbiscuit]

Could be something is binding or could just be a really heavy clutch though not sure why...my Centerforce will hold 650hp and it works like butter. The way these linkages work is mechanical clutch linkage (IE no hydraulic TO bearing) relies on perfect geometry and leverage to depress the clutch. Usually not any adjustment on the clutch fork itself or the ball stud unfortunately. I can adjust your clutch fork position to the pressure plate if you have a threaded upper clutch rod, however. I would look more at the linkage itself. Make sure the upper pedal rod or the lower clutch fork rod aren't binding and have smooth travel. Best way to check is have someone depress the pedal while watching the linkage in the engine compartment. If even one rod tilts, or does anything funky you have to sort it out. Usually helps to nylon bush those pivot points and install with a little chassis grease or silicone spray. Also check to make sure there is no slop in the rods IE they can tilt back and forth or are just plain worn out. The next thing would be to look up 63 Nova clutch linkage photos and compare to what you have in the car. If even one rod is incorrect, it will be a never ending battle to try and get it adjust correctly. 11" is used in high performance applications so that is the right clutch for your needs. How are the throws? Does it grind going into gear or anything like that? Is the shifter a Hurst? If so those are fully adjustable and rebuildable.

[awsomeears]

Could be something is binding or could just be a really heavy clutch though not sure why...my Centerforce will hold 650hp and it works like butter. The way these linkages work is mechanical clutch linkage (IE no hydraulic TO bearing) relies on perfect geometry and leverage to depress the clutch. Usually not any adjustment on the clutch fork itself or the ball stud unfortunately. I can adjust your clutch fork position to the pressure plate if you have a threaded upper clutch rod, however. I would look more at the linkage itself. Make sure the upper pedal rod or the lower clutch fork rod aren't binding and have smooth travel. Best way to check is have someone depress the pedal while watching the linkage in the engine compartment. If even one rod tilts, or does anything funky you have to sort it out. Usually helps to nylon bush those pivot points and install with a little chassis grease or silicone spray. Also check to make sure there is no slop in the rods IE they can tilt back and forth or are just plain worn out. The next thing would be to look up 63 Nova clutch linkage photos and compare to what you have in the car. If even one rod is incorrect, it will be a never ending battle to try and get it adjust correctly. 11" is used in high performance applications so that is the right clutch for your needs. How are the throws? Does it grind going into gear or anything like that? Is the shifter a Hurst? If so those are fully adjustable and rebuild-able.

I have a build sheet for the 4-speed, it was rebuilt in the dead of winter by a local guy down in Illinois.

I do agree I will have to get a buddy of mine to jump in the car and just view what is going on.

Yes its a Hurst Shifter.

Thanks for the tips !!!