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View Full Version : How Much POR 20?



GTSLOW
08-04-2004, 06:32 AM
Ok I'm going to be wrapping my headers with that high temp wrap. But to prevent rusting I'd like to paint my headers first. When looking at the POR site they sell in 8oz, pint, and gallon. The 8oz alone is 17dollars so I'd like to get just as much as I need. Any help is appreciated!!!

Links:

Header Wrap (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1351&prmenbr=361)
Wrap Straps (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1354&prmenbr=361)
POR 20 (http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=128)

BTW I'm going with header wrap over ceramic coating because I think it keeps the heat in better and it looks cool, but thats my opinion :D

PonyKiller87
08-04-2004, 08:15 AM
DONT DO IT

Sorry, I went that route, other than the POR, I just used header paint. But that wrap sucks, its a serious PIA to put on the headers, you either do it with thick gloves on which makes it harder to keep tight and looking good or you do it without gloves and you end up with glass shards in your hands( not like fiberglass this stuff is like small cubes of glass, very very itchy). No matter how good of a job you do it still doesn't look all that good, looks like a burlap sack rapped around your pipes. If you read the directions it says that stuff needs like 10 minutes to cure, at which time it will smoke. When they say it will smoke, they arent kidding, I will smoke alot, and for more than 10 minutes. And that is if you haven't gotten any oil or anything on them accidentaly, that will make them smoke that much more. All in all, one of the crappiest products I have ever used for anything. Spend the extra $50 or $100 to get them ceramic coated. They will hold the heat in better, wont rust, and will all around look better. Can you tell I hate that stuff? lol

Cryptic
08-04-2004, 08:59 AM
we sprayed my brother's 72 F100 down withh por-15 (engine bay and under carriage). It seems to do a good job, no ocmplaints.

Never used anything like por20 on headers. Ceramic is the way to go. For looks, durabilty, and performance IMO.

PonyKiller87
08-04-2004, 11:13 AM
Oh yeah don't get me wrong there everything I have seen and heard about the POR products is great, I only say don't do it because of the wrap itself.

SSmike1
08-04-2004, 11:17 AM
ya
if your worried about the heat
use Ceramic Coating.

not wrap.

it will come off.

and do not worry about rust if your wrapping them?

I'll Wrap You such a 1.
:sgay

GTSLOW
08-04-2004, 10:18 PM
The only reason I want to go with wrap is because of time. I'm only home for so long and I don't have the time to take my headers off send them to get coated and get them back. The only way would be if theres a place in milwaukee that does it???????????

Yooformula
08-04-2004, 10:35 PM
If you are going to POR20 them, why do you need the wraps? Take em to U Spray it and blast them then take an afternoon and brush on the coating. Por products are way too easy to use and work awesome!! I used por 15 for some corrosion issues and stopped it flat! If I could find some por 20 locally i would coat my headers with em in a second but I dont have time to wait for mail order...well maybe I do. :yawn:

TransAm12sec
08-04-2004, 11:21 PM
First off, Header wrap should only be used for race applications. Your headers will rust quickly and become useless very soon. Then you will need to buy another set of headers.

As for por-15, I would talk to the company before putting it on an exhaust part.

The lesson of the day, don't use exhaust wrap.

GTSLOW
08-05-2004, 04:07 AM
Alrighty so this is what I've got:

I'm not going with header wrap.
There are no places localy for ceramic coating
POR products are way too easy to use and work awesome :D

Well looks like I'll just be going with POR 20 then. Also POR 20 is PORs high temp header/manifold application, it's the highest temp stuff they got.

SSmike1
08-05-2004, 07:01 AM
Okie Dokie, POR 20.

sounds like the Plan-Man! :wow

hey Nan, Yoosof, send me a link to the POR site.

what is this stuff?

super bike mike
:thumbsup

PonyKiller87
08-05-2004, 07:36 AM
Forgot to tell you there is a coating place in Sheboygan( pretty sure thats where it is) but even if you take the parts to them and pick them up yourself its still a 2-3 week turn around time. Which seems crazy to me but I guess they cant get them done fast enough.

Max 93
08-05-2004, 08:34 AM
Try Motorsport powder coating in Burlington, A friend of mine had his atv exhaust coated there.

Yooformula
08-05-2004, 11:01 AM
Por products are awesome Mike. I know brandon used them to coat some of his undercarriage parts and so did I. Then I had to used some to coat my battery tray area after my factory battery exploded and ate right through sh|t!

Look around this site, they have a ton of cool stuff.. (http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=128)



Okie Dokie, POR 20.

sounds like the Plan-Man! :wow

hey Nan, Yoosof, send me a link to the POR site.

what is this stuff?

super bike mike
:thumbsup

Yooformula
08-05-2004, 11:04 AM
This is their starter kit for most anything. You can use this stuff right over the rust to stop it and to coat metal. This stuff is permanent and will not allow rust to continue. I knew of some old hotrod builders that would use this on the inner to coat new metal after a restoration. I used it for my sub frame connectors also to prevent and stop some surface rust. Goes on just like paint. :Hump

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=301

Cryptic
08-05-2004, 11:30 AM
where is this U Spray It place...



This is their starter kit for most anything. You can use this stuff right over the rust to stop it and to coat metal. This stuff is permanent and will not allow rust to continue. I knew of some old hotrod builders that would use this on the inner to coat new metal after a restoration. I used it for my sub frame connectors also to prevent and stop some surface rust. Goes on just like paint. :Hump

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=301


There's this pre-treater stuff you put on first.. highly recommended.
If anyone wants to see the stuff first I have some. (pre treater and por-15) I keep it in the fridge in a jar next to the mayo :goof

PonyKiller87
08-05-2004, 12:36 PM
U spray is on 124th Street just north of Hampton ( Butler or Tosa not sure) that place it great, you can either have them do your stuff, or you can do it your self. I did a set of rims there, I think it was $40 or $50 for an hour in the both. The have several types of blasting media too, plain sand, the metalized stuff(leaves the stuff looking silvery), glass bead, and a few others I believe.

Corvette Jabo
08-05-2004, 01:23 PM
[QUOTE=CrypticGTX]where is this U Spray It place...



U-Spray, Inc.

262-781-8884
4907 N. 124th. St., Butler, WI 53007
From 124th & Hampton, 1 block north on 124th from Hampton (west side of 124th). Its great there are 4 industrial sand blasting booths. 2 oxide and 1 glass bead booth, the 4th is a plastic bead I think the employees are the only one that get to use the plastic bead booth. $1.25 / minute and well worth it. They also have a booth in the back for blasting car / truck frames, very reasonable. Allot better than having things acid diped. Rust and paint come off as fast as you move the tip over your part. Thin sheet metal will bend from the heat if your too close or move too slow. I usually use the oxide booth and then take the parts to the glass bead booth fo a great finish. Clean the parts with a good brake clean or laquer thiner and paint. Its the best kept secret in MKE.

Yooformula
08-05-2004, 01:48 PM
Another vote for U Spray It. I was just there yesterday doing 2 sets of headers. :thumbsup

GTSLOW
08-05-2004, 05:19 PM
http://www.por15.com

Thats their actual website. They have stuff for everything! Exhaust, frame, rust stoppers its really a great product! My dads got a sandblaster at his work so I'm not worried about that. The real purpose I wanted the POR for was to prevent rusting when I installed the wrap. But now that I know they rust from the inside out I may not do it at all, cuz the headers are nickle plated :goof

SSmike1
08-05-2004, 09:33 PM
cool
thanks for the links
yoosof and nan,

very cool stuff.


i have a set of rims i need to blast & paint
gloss black.

:)

ponyride00
08-06-2004, 12:31 AM
My buddy has an 95 TA and he just bought headers. He bought the jackets instead of the wrap. The only reason that he bought the jackets was that the spark plug wires sit really close to the headers. Any of you guys have or had a problem with melted plug wires on LTI's? Do the jackets cause rust?

SSmike1
08-06-2004, 08:56 AM
yes
that is why 96S10 is asking
he is having that problem, melting plug wires on his headers.

:)

PB86MCSS
08-06-2004, 10:50 AM
Yea, if using por-15 make sure you follow the directions verbatim. If the metal is not prepped well or the rust is too severe it won't do any good. Rotted metal won't be saved but it will bond to surface rust, or if you grind off the loose crap and use Metal Ready first. Since following the directions I have had great success but back 4-5 years ago when I first got some por-15 I didn't and it shows. Had to re-do a few things.

That U Spray it place sounds pretty neat...I'll have to remember that for future reference.

GTSLOW
08-06-2004, 07:55 PM
My buddy has an 95 TA and he just bought headers. He bought the jackets instead of the wrap. The only reason that he bought the jackets was that the spark plug wires sit really close to the headers. Any of you guys have or had a problem with melted plug wires on LTI's? Do the jackets cause rust?

Thats a good question? They're probably easier to work with also.

A B4C Z
08-08-2004, 04:03 AM
Jet Hot Coat them then still use the plug boots. No matter what you use the wires still can get hot to burn them.

Kyle