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Cryptic
02-03-2011, 06:29 PM
Truck: 1998 Chevy 2500 5.7L Vortec

I finished doing my entire driveway and col-de-sac. I went to give the neighbors a hand and the truck died while backing up slowly, maybe around 1200 RPM. It just chugged out. Kinda sounded like a diesel when it died, knocky. I had no signs of loss of power previous to this.

My first thought was I was out of gas. But I had a half a tank, so that wasn't it. Next thought, fuel pump went. I tried to start the truck with starting fluid and I think I heard it start to fire before I had a big backfire from the throttlebody and scorched every hair on my face. So I guess I have some spark. :durr

Still thinking the fuel pump could be the culprit I went out and bought a fuel pressure tester and it tested, 56-60 PSI at the check valve.

Fuel filter is around 2 years old. I already bought another one. But I don't think this is the problem.

Trying to crank I think I can identify a pattern in the sound.
rev, rev, rev, rev, pop, pop, slower rev, slower rev, repeat...
I'm not really sure what to make of that, if anything.

Pulled the cap and rotor:
Cap is newer that I know, I did it not too long ago.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_5Bdw0bCKJkE/TUtIARj7G6I/AAAAAAAABbg/-ssAF5ySDYY/s640/IMG_0432.JPG

Other than the rotor being dirty in the center, I can't tell if its bad or not.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_5Bdw0bCKJkE/TUtIATJKJKI/AAAAAAAABbk/M0MLZXkby5Q/s640/IMG_0433.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_5Bdw0bCKJkE/TUtIAgDNCwI/AAAAAAAABbo/HvijAb_3heI/s912/IMG_0434.JPG


Any suggestions at this point would be great. Its hard to work on this outside. Cold as hell out.

nismodave
02-03-2011, 06:32 PM
hmm....fuel filter?

Cryptic
02-03-2011, 06:34 PM
I pressed the fuel check valve with a screw driver and plenty of fuel sprayed out. That and 60PSI constant while cranking.

Holeshot
02-03-2011, 06:36 PM
Andy check the two vent screens on the bottom of the distributor. They get plugged and causes condensation inside the cap = chugging stalling no start. its a known TSB Could also be the pick up , weak coil.

Car Guy
02-03-2011, 07:10 PM
First thought in my mind is a timing issue......

Russ Jerome
02-03-2011, 07:19 PM
That is the most common fail dist cap in the world, replace it and rotor.
Because of the route the voltage travels it internaly misfires, have had bad new ones!

spooln30
02-03-2011, 08:02 PM
+1 with Russ. Those caps and rotors are well know to fail fast. Use AC Delco parts cuz the aftermarket ones suck tons.

wrath
02-03-2011, 08:06 PM
El Shitty El Spider El Distributor El Cap El Made in Messico.

Pop the hood at night and I bet you'd see fireworks. A new cap and rotor will go a long ways. Both the ignition coils and drivers GM used back then tended to fail as they got hot. Cold startup was fine... 30 minutes later and no spark.

spooln30
02-03-2011, 08:30 PM
I think if the spider injector was bad it would still run but have a cylinder misfire. Now I have seen the FPR in the intake go bad aka leak to shit and cause a no start.

Cryptic
02-03-2011, 09:02 PM
Further look at the cap I found that #2 was gummed to shit. The wire on the cap side was toast too. The other wires didn't looks anything close to this LOL
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_5Bdw0bCKJkE/TUtnEZxU28I/AAAAAAAABbw/8E69rGBMKBM/s912/IMG_0435.JPG

Plug #2 was black and gummed up. Probably not firing too well.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_5Bdw0bCKJkE/TUtnFegoJHI/AAAAAAAABb8/27djFh5m1Ns/s912/IMG_0438.JPG

Pulled compression on cylinder #2 while I had the plug out and I got 160 psi.

I cranked the motor while the cap was off and I did see the rotor rotate. I also saw BLUE spark coming from the coil (no wire on it). So it looks like there is strong spark from the coil.

Dan also suggested to check the play of the rotor, but I can't figure out how to turn the motor manually. I got too cold before I could try a dozen combinations of sockets and extensions to get to the crank bolt.


To do:

New Cap, rotor, wires, plugs
Check the rest of plugs

PonyKiller87
02-03-2011, 09:21 PM
If you replace the cap and rotor and thats not it then theres a good chance your timing chain stretched and the slop in the timing system is now more than the computer can compensate for. I had that on my old Z71, chased the ignition problem for a while before I realized that it was the chain, when I changed it it was so loose you could push in the sides where it goes from the big gear to the little gear and it would follow both, that made for about 50 deg of slop if I remember right.

Cryptic
02-03-2011, 09:38 PM
Ohh that sounds like fun....
change the timing chain on a 98 5.7 vortec (http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_timing_chain_on_a_98_5.7_vor tec)


Any volunteers for this Saturday. Beer, food, etc :thumbsup

brotherbenn83
02-03-2011, 11:38 PM
Ohh that sounds like fun....
change the timing chain on a 98 5.7 vortec (http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_timing_chain_on_a_98_5.7_vor tec)


Any volunteers for this Saturday. Beer, food, etc :thumbsup

That is an EASY job. Anyways I have been working at Chevy dealers for nearly 10 years, and NEVER had a bad timing chain on a 5.7L The main shitty timing chain setup of late is the 3.6L outlook/vue/traverse/acadia etc motor. That is 3 chains and it requires engine removal...yours is a quick cake walk by comparison.

brotherbenn83
02-03-2011, 11:40 PM
First thought in my mind is a timing issue......

Not adjustable.

Car Guy
02-04-2011, 03:03 AM
I know, see post #11.....

PonyKiller87
02-04-2011, 08:36 AM
That is an EASY job. Anyways I have been working at Chevy dealers for nearly 10 years, and NEVER had a bad timing chain on a 5.7L The main shitty timing chain setup of late is the 3.6L outlook/vue/traverse/acadia etc motor. That is 3 chains and it requires engine removal...yours is a quick cake walk by comparison.

Go on the truck forums, once you hit 150k it seems its only a matter or time before it starts giving you issues. It's very common, but it happens late enough in the trucks life that most people aren't paying to take it to a dealer to get fixed.

The stock chain is the crappy non roller style. if you replace one get the ZZ4 timing set, its a single roller style. You can't fit a double roller timing set unless you want to do some machine work on the balancer.

Its not to bad to do as long as you have good balancer puller and installer tools. And be very carefull with the front of the pan gasket when taking the timing cover off. If you screw it up you need to drop the front diff a little in order to get the oil pan off to replace the gasket.

juicedimpss
02-04-2011, 09:10 AM
That is an EASY job. Anyways I have been working at Chevy dealers for nearly 10 years, and NEVER had a bad timing chain on a 5.7L The main shitty timing chain setup of late is the 3.6L outlook/vue/traverse/acadia etc motor. That is 3 chains and it requires engine removal...yours is a quick cake walk by comparison.

i would agree with this statement. that would be the last thing on my list of things to check. More than likely,its an ignition concern.

Moparjim
02-04-2011, 10:02 AM
http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50195

I think your similar vintage truck has a similar ignition system. The site I reference has easy to follow, detailed ignition troubleshooting writeups on many ignition systems.

Cryptic
02-04-2011, 11:19 AM
Paid a visit to Dan at Napa and got a new Delphi cap and rotor, premium wires, and spark plugs. I'll report my results after I get these in some time today.

Sprayaway Fox
02-04-2011, 05:00 PM
Crank sensor, I know thats a common problem also. Had to do it on my 99 5.7

wrencher
02-04-2011, 11:17 PM
Put a cap & rotor on it like others have said they are a problem. Plus yours from the pic's looks like it has seen quite a bit of moisture. Judging by from the corrosion on the rotors mounting screws.

I have rarely seen timing chain issues with these motors.
But when I did it always set a P1345 CKP/CMP correlation incorrect/out of range code.
But most of those still ran as well & where extremely high mileage 180K +.
The cam sensor's in the distributor. ( the CMP/cam sensor is also what is adjustable when turning the distributor)

Cryptic
02-05-2011, 12:09 AM
I put in the new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs and the truck started like a champ.

I'm thinking it was the rotor. All the carbon on it, it was dimpled, and looked a little bent downward.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm glad I didn't have to do a timing chain in this cold weather.

Russ Jerome
02-05-2011, 03:05 PM
That is the most common fail dist cap in the world, replace it and rotor.
Because of the route the voltage travels it internaly misfires, have had bad new ones!

Was pretty confident this guy nailed it by description ^^^ :)

Holeshot
02-05-2011, 07:29 PM
Remember what I said about the wires Andy !