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Ricky Bobby
11-24-2010, 11:05 AM
have a ? i have a 74 4bolt main all stock with small rv cam in it has about 100k on the clock its my derby motor i want it to scream but i dont wanna dump fists of cash in this thing was wondering what a good head,cam combo would be good i run a 2bbl intake with roch 2bbl carb set up for derby any help is great or if u have something good laying around and is priced good lmk thanx


also no i cant run nitrous :rolf

Prince Valiant
11-24-2010, 11:20 AM
Get the summit cam 204/214 @.050, .420/.442 lift. 52 bucks...but I don't know if it's cam and lifters, or just cam.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1102/

I used this cam in my coronet and it works fine w/ stock valve springs/stock converter, and would be fine w/ a 2bbl carb. Made good power up to 5000rpm and good enough low-end to spin the tires w/ 2.76 gears and the bone-stock torque converter.

For heads, I wouldn't do anything for a budget...maybe upgrade to vortech if you want to spend the money for maybe 15-20hp at most gain over the cam alone. Not sure of the manifold compatibility though...nice thing about the cam is it doesn't exceed the max lift that a stock set of vortech's will allow (iirc, ~.475-..480). Might not be worth the hassle. Once you start getting over 4500rpm, the stock 2bbl will likely be the limiting factor...unless they allow you to run larger 2bbls.

But that cam really wakes up an engine...w/ headers, 4bbl, and new ignition and old stock 318 heads, it pushed my big heavy hwy geared coronet to 15.2 @ 92mph...it's a good step up as a typical RV cam is around 180-190 @ .050 duration.

Ricky Bobby
11-24-2010, 11:24 AM
hmm ok will check it out also mostly the car is a gm bubble thats gutted and has a th400 with first and rev only and a 12bolt rear with 4:56's

looks like $100 for cam and lifters

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1102/?rtype=10

DR.FORD
11-24-2010, 12:07 PM
First thing to do is freshen the bottom end-
bolt shit on a 100K mile set of rings is dumb.
Betcha it will run good with some cylinder pressure!
You can get a rebuild kit in isle 3 at walgreens for $100!!

Prince Valiant
11-24-2010, 12:18 PM
bolt shit on a 100K mile set of rings is dumb.
Hpmh...must be a ford thing :)

But he's right...it's not ideal, and not what I'd recommend for a street car. But, what are you looking to do? For purposes of a derby car, do you really need a fresh short-block? That's something I have no opinion on...

But the old rings is probably another reason why you shouldn't go with newer/fresher heads...if you put fresher heads on, you'll definitely have a crap ton of blow-by as the old-tired rings stand no chance against the fresher seats of the valves.

Again, rickybobby, just for reference, I didn't freshen the 180,000 thousand mile 318, and yes...could have made more power and run in the upper 14's with the simple combo. But let's face it...aside from, yes, a little blow-by, it was a nice little combo that cost less than going to a packer game for me to do...

Ricky Bobby
11-24-2010, 03:42 PM
I see what ur saying Jim, but for my application its not the way to do it. A fresh motor with tight clearances is gonna have more friction and more heat a seasoned motor will create a lot less. Remeber here im not trying to make a good running motor with a radiator, im looking for how is it gonna start at 300+ degrees. I want more power to motor around the track but if i loose my radiator and keep running 5500prm + i need it to keep running or restart hot and a seasoned motor is the best, or get it rebuilt with loose tolerances. Been running this motor for past 5yrs has seen 300+ numerous times and never lets me down and it barely smokes with 24" exhaust out the hood.

There are motors out there right now that can run damn near wide open without water for close to a 30min or longer depending on throttle control but those are purpose built and cost 4grand, ur paying more for the knowledge then the parts and like i said just want more power to junk my shit quicker :goof


That's something I have no opinion on...

...

thats a first :rolf :goof

Sprayaway Fox
11-24-2010, 03:57 PM
Is it gonna be in the dirby car? If so cheap would be a vortec head and intake and a circletrack lift rule cam so you wont have to change the springs in the vortects. Look at Competition Products out of WI 2 day ship to your house.

Cams n lifters around 100 bucks. You would likely get around 375 out of it. with a lift rule cam.

If you do the spring swap on the heads you can get about 425 out of it. The vortec flow drops off at .510 pocket porting can get you flow till about .525 on a good port job.
I do some chamber mods like grind the block for the plug whole down and smooth and a gasket match and take the casting out of the exhaust. If you pocket port them there isnt much meat there so be easy. I AM NOT A PORTER, I AM A SHAPER BECAUSE I HAVE NO FLOW DATA..ONLY WHAT I HAVE READ AND DO TO MY SETS.

Freshen the bottom end up if you can though.

Ricky Bobby
11-24-2010, 04:16 PM
yea i can get a set of vortec 062 heads for cheap and my buddy has the 4bbl intake to bolt up cause otherwise i have to oval out the center holes to get it to fit

if i freshen it then im gonna want to make it a 383 and budget wont allow that

juicedimpss
11-24-2010, 04:42 PM
i would put in a fresh timing chain and call it a day. bang for the buck,i cant see any reason to spend a ton on a demo motor. last demo i was at was all mud,if you cant make it "hook" more power wont do shit.

Ricky Bobby
11-24-2010, 04:50 PM
need mo powa to make hits like this

w_uSP2ZqF8s

or some more abuse
PDF7QvSrVPg

hrsp
11-27-2010, 11:26 PM
Nice Vids!!

Ricky Bobby
11-28-2010, 08:10 AM
yea thats some hard hits lots of meds after :rolf