Need help diagnosing a problem

[LEWETHETIGER73]

So I know you can only do so much with out actually looking at the vehicle but I figured what the heck. Here is the run down.
I have a 97 f-150, 4.6 v8, 2 wheel drive. It has disc in the front and drum in the back. It also has 198,xxx miles. I recently changed the pads in the front and the caliper on the drivers side. It was a complete caliper and cradle. I thought I bleed the brakes properly or at least close enough. {Hold the brake pedal down until the brake has a steady stream coming out and then close the valve.} When I took it out to head into town it was fine. A little soft in the pedal but I figured my buddy can give me a hand to bleed them later and shouldn't be an issue. From there I drive about 20 on the freeway and along the way I smell the brakes. I don't feel them draging or really pulling to any side. So I get to my destination and park it for a couple hours. After that time frame I drive it home a little slower. No issues, no smell. When I get off I get stuck at a light. When I get off of the brakes to the gas it seems locked in place for a second before the brake "seemingly disingages" Still no smell. Get it home and stick my face in the wheels. Last time it was parked it had a strong smell on bothe sides. Now it only smelled on the drivers side { the side where the caliper was replaced}
Now on a side note. before this was all done when I braked it would pull hard to the right. I figured it was some linkage that I would get to after the brakes. It now seems more pronounced since the brake change. Also I only got the truck about 1,xxx miles ago. When I changed the pads the drivers side was down to the metal while the pass side was about 1/2 way down. I was told the pass. side caliper was recently replaced.
So what might your ideas be? Sorry to be so long winded but I figured this might save some future questions. Thanks

[Yooformula]

i would take both sides apart and inspect/lube everything. maybe when the prev owner assembled the calipers, he didnt insert the rubber boots or lube the slides. when i did the brakes on mine, 1 calipers was loaded and 1 wasnt, which I found out later after a whole mess of noises and shit.

[Z28Envy]

Make sure the caliper pins aren't rusted and stuck. Had this happen to me the last time I went to change the pads and rotors. I put everything together and went for a drive and could smell the pads were hot and the rim was almost too hot to touch. Took everything apart again and found one pin was completely rusted and wouldn't slide. Being it was around midnight I couldn't go get new parts so I used a torch to heat it up and pliers to get it out. Took a bunch or tries. I used a dremel to sand it down real good then used some high temp wheel bearing grease to lube it up. Worked great and i still haven't tooked it since.

[xxsn0blindxx]

This may not apply to your situation, but does the master cylinder look like it was replaced? My wife's car had an issue with the brakes seizing up after extended driving and after rebuilding and replacing the caliper and replacing the rotor and pads it ended up that therod that pushes the master cylinder needed to be adjusted. I replaced the master cylinder in winter and when spring came the temp must have been just enough for the metal to expand causing the brakes to ride slightly, but enough to overheat and lock up the brakes.

[pashtrd]

Change both front rubber brake lines. They degrade from the inside out. You wont be able to tell by looking that they are bad. You should always replace them when you replace a caliper. they can break down inside and not let the fluid go back to the master.

[Reverend Cooper]

^ exactly,if it is localized to one side only obviously its in that side,a master will affect more than one brake.only other issue would be if the new caliper is bad which is possible.

[xxsn0blindxx]

In my case the passenger side locked up 4 times in a row. It wasn't until after the passenger caliper was replaced that the driver side locked up and the dealer looked in to adjusting the rod that pushed the master cylinder.

1)Wife say passenger caliper locked up, pick up car an hour later and no locking up driving home

2)Rebuild caliper and replaced caliper brake line because I accidentally broke the line

3) Wife drives car for entire week 200+ miles no problems

4) Head to Minneapolis for the weekend, no problems until Camp Douglas when traffic slows down to stop and go and passenger caliper seizes.

5) Mechanic says rotors worn too thin causing piston to get cocked and stuck, replaces both calipers

6) Continue driving next day and stop for lunch in Eau Claire with no problems. Get back in car and brakes lock up immediately

7) Let brakes cool off and drive to dealer down the road

8) Dealer says driver side caliper locks up and looks overheated. I tell them not to touch the driver side and just replace the passenger caliper.

9) Pick up car, drive 10 miles and stop for gas, continue driving and driver side caliper locks up

10) Take car back to dealer, they test and passenger side locks up

11) Leave car at dealer for the rest of the week and they adjust the rod that pushes the brake master cylinder

This happened in spring and I replaced the master cylinder several months prior in winter so it never occurred to me that the problem would be the master cylinder. It happened on the first week of weather in the 80s so it must have been just a little too tight.

[Plum Crazy]

it could be the rubber hoses too.

[LEWETHETIGER73]

I think I'll start with the hoses. Thanks for the help!

[Sprayaway Fox]

I worked at Vatozone for 2 years and the rubber hoses is what everybody overlooks. They always get a new master. Then when that doesnt work they come in for the hose....No matter how many times you tell them to try that they go to the expesive part away.