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Mr Twigbert
06-03-2010, 05:44 PM
The Aztek's check engine light came on.. Took it to Autozone and had the code pulled -

P0141
Heated Oxygen Sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 2

Paid $73.00 and got the rear O2 sensor.. Looks like there are 3 total.. 2 up front and 1 in the rear..

Replaced it and drove the car for about 30 minutes today and the light is still on.. Will it turn off or do I have to get it cleared?

Does anyone know for certain that Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the rear one or did I just piss away $73.00?

Prince Valiant
06-03-2010, 06:19 PM
Does anyone know for certain that Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the rear one or did I just piss away $73.00?
well, since it was on an aztek....

I kid, I kid. I have nothing useful to add to this thread :(

Waver
06-03-2010, 06:57 PM
The Aztek's check engine light came on.. Took it to Autozone and had the code pulled -

P0141
Heated Oxygen Sensor - Bank 1 - Sensor 2

Paid $73.00 and got the rear O2 sensor.. Looks like there are 3 total.. 2 up front and 1 in the rear..

Replaced it and drove the car for about 30 minutes today and the light is still on.. Will it turn off or do I have to get it cleared?

Does anyone know for certain that Bank 1 - Sensor 2 is the rear one or did I just piss away $73.00?

Did you get the codes cleared? it should be the rear 02 sensor for that code.

Yooformula
06-03-2010, 07:47 PM
once you bought the o2's, you should have went back and had them clear the codes or disconnect the battery for like 15 min.

Mr Twigbert
06-03-2010, 08:41 PM
I thought the code would clear it self after putting in the new part and driving it for a bit..

wrencher
06-03-2010, 10:16 PM
It should self clear if that was indeed the problem. It just will take a few drive cycles to get it to go out on it's own.

wrath
06-04-2010, 06:45 AM
It'll clear after about 20 minutes of closed-loop driving if the problem is gone.

BAD LS1
06-04-2010, 09:09 AM
Pull the PCM A and possible B fuses, instant light reset. And for the newbs its if its hard code it will take probably 2 or more driving cycles with to check its function and turn the light off on its own if there is no more issues reported. It took 2 errors to make it happen in the first place, which could have took place over a period of time.

lilws6
06-04-2010, 09:49 AM
what he said^^ not all codes go away right away some take some time to clear out but as tom said reset it your self :)

70 cutlass 442
06-10-2010, 05:47 PM
Where ever you bought it from probably wont clear it for you, people were clearing codes and going through emissions, Ive still got that scanner so I could clear it for you, but chances are it will clear itself before you'd even get here :thumbsup

Z06 KID
06-13-2010, 12:22 PM
IMO i wuldnt take a check engine light to auto zone. everytime a car comes to my shop they have a printout of several cars on it and it is ALWAYS something with an oxygen sensor. id say take it to a shop and if its like my shop we will scan into it for a code and we dont charge for a scan test unless you have the work done.

brotherbenn83
06-13-2010, 08:20 PM
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

• The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.

• A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.

• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.

• Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.

Reverend Cooper
06-13-2010, 08:40 PM
^ he is absolutely correct,a history code will fail emissions still. clearing witha scan tool is the best bet

GTO RLY?
06-14-2010, 10:49 AM
A drive cycle should never take more than 10-15 minutes. Check this out, it helped me get my EVAP readiness monitor to go, so I could pass their fruity little test, even though I'm confident my V8 is cleaner than 90% of the others out there with my AFRs dead nuts.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycle.html