10 bolt pinion seal, any sponsors do this?

[SSLEVO]

I have a 97 Trans am with a leaky pinion seal. Do any of the site sponsors do work on rears? I'm thinking about selling the car and just want this leak to go away.

[sloLs1]

if i had my tools at home id say bring it over and well get it done... pretty simple to do!

[JC70SS]

Tom (BadLS1) can do it in his sleep.

[SSLEVO]

I have been reading about doing it the garage way and doing it the correct way, which involves pulling out the gear set and using some torque measuring equipment. I guess as long as it doesn't leak and the gears don't howl to no end i'm fine with either. I've worked on just about everything but messing with the gears is something i don't want to deal with at this point.

[sloLs1]

if youve set up rear ends before then youll know how to change the seal without even pullin the diff cover off.

[Z28Envy]

Tom (BadLS1) can do it in his sleep.

I would go with Tom! He does a great job. He did mine when the bearings where shot.

[wrath]

Remove driveshaft, prick punch the pinion and pinion nut, count the threads and write it down (or take a picture), remove yoke, pry out seal, press new seal in, put yoke back on, tighten pinion nut back to where it was.

It's not rocket surgery. You're not putting new gears, carrier, bearings, or crush collar in.

The only bad part about the job is that I almost always end up replacing universal joints while I'm in there.

[GTSLOW]

Ah the infamous pinion seal on the 7.5". One of the many joys GM blessed the Fbody with.

[sloLs1]

Remove driveshaft, prick punch the pinion and pinion nut, count the threads and write it down (or take a picture), remove yoke, pry out seal, press new seal in, put yoke back on, tighten pinion nut back to where it was.

It's not rocket surgery. You're not putting new gears, carrier, bearings, or crush collar in.

The only bad part about the job is that I almost always end up replacing universal joints while I'm in there.

basically... i always mark the nut and the pinion with a paint pen... and then as your tighting it back down you can feel when its starting to "get tight" and then you just blip your impact untill you line your marks back up. YOUVE GOTTA BE REALLY CARFEULL when doing that but thats how i change pinion seals and never had a problem.

[BAD LS1]

Just an FYI... Pinion seals on these axles just dont leak for any reason. There is ALWAYS and underlying cause and its usually not a grove in the yoke where the seal rides. Certainly the crush sleeve is no longer holding proper pre-load and the pinion deflects under load and thus the seal starts leaking. This is the case with just about EVERY 10 bolt behind an V8 F-body. So long story short, a new pinion seal and buff of the yoke with 1500 grit is only a temporary fix.

As a side note, most service info points to rotational torque needed to break the pinion free to cause it to turn. This you use a beam style in/lb torque wrench and keep tightening it till you get to 15"/lbs on used bearings and 22"/lbs on new.

[lilws6]

Mine wasn't leaking or anything :goof so I just bought a 12 bolt easy fix right?

[BAD LS1]

Mine wasn't leaking or anything :goof so I just bought a 12 bolt easy fix right?

Oh yeah, tip-top! I did have to use a putty knife to get the "gear lube undercoating" off the torque arm to mount it to the 12 bolt though :goof

[lilws6]

oh so it was leaking fluid? :goof didn't quite notice

[chargedformula]

thats on my list of things i should fix but am not going to because i want to get a dana s60 someday. i will have to add a little lube every now and then, i will just tell myself that its just normal usage