Running Lean

[TraceDaddy]

Recently, after having my new hood installed, the check engine light came on. A code reader told me that I'm running lean in both banks. Last year an engine light came on that said I was running lean in one bank. The answer last year was to run some Seafoam through. The thought being that maybe a couple injectors were clogged. That worked. This year the Seafoam hasn't done anything. The light is still on. The hood is functional so in theory more cold air should be getting to it. But should that cause me to run lean? I did re-oil the air filter but that was after the light came on. I was very careful to get all the pleats covered and not get too crazy with the stuff.

I'm running a Steeda 93 Octane tune and CAI.

What should I do next? I seem to remember a post before that said running lean could do some damage. How fast do I have to get this figured out.

I appreciate any input.

Thanks.

PS. The guys that installed my hood are also guilty of forgetting to re-connect my left turn signal after they reattached my repainted bumper. I fixed that this afternoon. Is there something else they could have inadvertently monkeyed with?

[TheRX7Project]

Was there anything on the engine (MAF, etc) that needed to be disconnected to put the hood on?

[TraceDaddy]

In theory, no. The strut tower brace had to come off because there wasn't enough clearance anymore. After he told me that he also said the airbox wasn't installed correctly and was riding too high as well. He "adjusted" it and it fits fine now. I looked at it and I don't see too much different. I did check the MAF and it looks to be seated correctly and all wires to it are snug.

[TheRX7Project]

I'd do a good old vacuum leak test then, if nothing else it will eliminate that possibilty.

[Holeshot]

If your running lean both banks it gotta be a vacuum leak. Something got disconnected or your sucking air behind the MAF. You said they adjusted the air intake. Also clean the MAF screen. 10 to 1 its oil on the MAF wire / screen.

[BAD LS1]

It's prob since its a ford and they rely on the MAF so much, obviously it increased airflow that much that its been pushed over the edge and is out of calibration now and the trims have gone way positive consistently now. The only other thing it could be you didn't tighten something or a connection is not on all the way between the maf and throttle body, thats it.

[STANMAN]

It could be in the tune itself. Has this been happening ever since you put the CAI on? If so, it's the tune for sure. You shoudln't have to be Seafoaming anything, the car can't have to many miles on it.

[STANMAN]

Also check to make sure the MAF is installed the correct way, they are directional (there's an arrow showing which way the air should flow), and can be installed the wrong way.

[TraceDaddy]

I don't think it's the tune. I've had it and the CAI almost as long as I've had the car. Never had an issue. The MAF is in correct. Mine will only fit one way. It's kind of offset so itf you try to put it in reversed it would be offset and the screws down't line up. I just disassembled everything and put it back together. I didn't find anything amiss. I detuned it back to stock so the check engine light would go out. Tuned it back to the 93 and drove around a bit. After shutting down the engine and waiting a bit I restarted it and light is back.

The car does have 62K miles on it. Maybe the MAF has just gone bad? I've been told you can clean a MAF with carb cleaner. I don't have any and I doubt any stores are open on Easter. I'd did try just blowing through it hard. I checked everything between the MAF and throttle body. Pushed and prodded all the connections and everything look snug.

I'll putz more tomorrow.

[Reverend Cooper]

THe maf housing,not the airflow sensor to the housing. the sensor goes in the housing one way only,but the housing could be in backwards is what Bob is saying.
how does the car run?

[Reverend Cooper]

o2-a/f sensors running lean usually mean a rich condition,the sensors are trying to pull fuel threw the computer.they are pegged lean and it is still rich. check the exhaust how does it smell does it stink bad or does it smell rich.

[Holeshot]

Dont use anything but MAF cleaner. CRC makes it.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41fX171WA3L._SS500_.jpg

[BAD LS1]

There is obviously a problem here, if both banks are reported lean, there is a huge correction factor taking place here... something changed about airflow........................................... ..........

[TraceDaddy]

The car runs...OK. You can tell it's kind of stumbling in places. Not terrible though. The exhaust doesn't smell particularly different.

Thanks for the tip on the MAF Cleaner. I'd never heard of that before.

I'll be on the horn this morning with the body shop to see if he can remember doing anything else except "Adjusting" the airbox.

I'll report back.

[BAD LS1]

If there is no airleak between the maf and the TB or the housing the maf cartridge drops into didnt change then:

Im going to go out on a limb here and say the tune up fom the handheld was barely close enough prior, and now with a slight increase in airflow its over the edge. This is why generic handhelds that claim to be setup for your mods but havent been setup to an individual car is not always the best idea. You need to get a scanner on the car and watch where the trims go as your driving, if they are not staying 0 to slightly negative, your maf transfer table is off and will require tuning to get it dialed in properly. This makes a huge part throttle response difference.

[STANMAN]

If there is no airleak between the maf and the TB or the housing the maf cartridge drops into didnt change then:

Im going to go out on a limb here and say the tune up fom the handheld was barely close enough prior, and now with a slight increase in airflow its over the edge. This is why generic handhelds that claim to be setup for your mods but havent been setup to an individual car is not always the best idea. You need to get a scanner on the car and watch where the trims go as your driving, if they are not staying 0 to slightly negative, your maf transfer table is off and will require tuning to get it dialed in properly. This makes a huge part throttle response difference.

Yeah, especially the huge generic tuners like Steeda. If you want a good tune, go to one of the smaller "well known" performance shops like Lethal, Brenspeed (I can personally vouch that they do a great job), or JDM. Of course there's also Marv who would burn you a great tune, and he uses SCT exclusively (I can also personally vouch that he does great work, and is a wealth of knowledge as well), plus he's a sponser and local:thumbsup

[BAD LS1]

PM me if you are need of a tune after all is sorted out.

[TraceDaddy]

Thanks to all. Will do.

[stealthy1ss]

I would also suggest getting a wideband (if you don't already have one). It just removes all doubt with how the car is running and IMO it should be in every car that has been tuned.

[TraceDaddy]

OK. The update. My freshly cleansed MAF did not help my problem. Same symptoms. On the plus side, I detuned this morning and left it that way for the drive to work. First indications are that the light isn't coming back and it actually felt a lot stronger than I remember it feeling before I had the tune. My biggest gripe before was throttle response and even that feels pretty good. Weird.

[BAD LS1]

Lol that means that handheld was WAY the fuck off as i suspected!