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View Full Version : Wanted: Exterior Door installation



pOrk
01-03-2010, 02:33 PM
My back hall is 52 degrees, WAY too freaking cold. The door fits like dog crap, so I'm assuming a new door would solve this problem. I have no idea how to install an exterior door and want it done right. Anyone here do something along these lines or know anyone who does? Thanks!

Silver350
01-03-2010, 04:31 PM
There could be many things that are causing the draft. First off feel around the door do you feel a draft coming thru? It could be that the seal around the door needs to be replace or that who ever installed the door didnt shim it out properly. Next thing You may want to just take of the interior molding and see if there is any insulation between the door frame and the framing of the house if there isnt pick up some spray foam and put a little bit between the door frame and frame of your house .

fly5150
01-03-2010, 05:09 PM
Installing a new exterior door is real easy. Getting a decent door is first. getting the door the right size for the opening is important too. Then making sure the opening is framed correctly for the new door. Shim it, screw it, trim it. Done.

pOrk
01-03-2010, 05:25 PM
There could be many things that are causing the draft. First off feel around the door do you feel a draft coming thru? It could be that the seal around the door needs to be replace or that who ever installed the door didnt shim it out properly. Next thing You may want to just take of the interior molding and see if there is any insulation between the door frame and the framing of the house if there isnt pick up some spray foam and put a little bit between the door frame and frame of your house .

The door is 1/4" or larger gap around the entire thing. If the screen door isn't closed all the way like it was last night, icicles form on the inside of the door from the window, door knob, and hinges. :thumbsup Pretty gangster.

Lash
01-03-2010, 05:27 PM
Is it siding or brick on the exterior?

pOrk
01-03-2010, 05:37 PM
Brick

wrath
01-03-2010, 06:44 PM
Got any pictures? Unless your old one is trashed, it's bound to be better than any sub-$300 door you're going to buy. Popping the moulding, resetting the casing, a new threshold if needed, new seals if needed, and insulating around it should make it as good as new.

If you really want a new door, wait a bit until Menards has their door sale, it should be coming up pretty quick. Last year they had it 3 times.

pOrk
01-03-2010, 06:47 PM
This door is toast, was totally smashed out around the door knob so I had to patch that together to get a new knob in it. A-hole realtor kicked it in when he locked the key inside like a noob.

I'll take photos, its kinda funky. And I am not looking for anything fancy, just a well insulated door that keeps winter outside.

Lash
01-03-2010, 08:36 PM
I'd just get the $100 insulated/primed steel one from menards. They do dent pretty easy though. Only other real option is a fiberglass door (thye don't make solid wood entry doors anymore....at least not for bulk consumers)....and them shits aint cheap, start at $300. I put a fiberglass front door in and a steel door going into the garage (both pre-hung). They are actually really easy to put in. The hardest part is getting it all squared up nice....especially when you have to do it by yourself..lol. I'm sure you could handle it.

jbiscuit
01-03-2010, 09:04 PM
In the city you want a steel door for security, no fiberglass.

awsomeears
01-03-2010, 10:22 PM
LOL

Erik wants it done right and for no DIYer's, everyone said " its easy "

But nobody offered to do this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Erik if you are serious about having it done PM me and I will pass on my cousins phone # and you can call him. He specializes in Additions/Master carpenter/Window/Structure and so on.............

He does not deal with junk and will point you in the right direction on quality

wrath
01-03-2010, 10:51 PM
In that case, go get a cheap steel pre-hung service door for pole barns and garages. They're usually nicer than the cheap steel doors for residential use. If it isn't heavy it'll fall apart. Put a fourth hinge on it before you put it in and use long ass screws. All the cheap doors come with casings that are junk but you can either build bracing or buy it that will help on the latch end.

Oh, and put a deadbolt in it with a decent cylinder that's hard to get a pair of channel locks on. Doorknob locks are only good for keeping honest people and those critters without thumbs out.


Oh, and I farkin' hate putting doors in so I'm not going to volunteer. Plus I'd probably go find my mortising crap and con you into building an oak casing.

pOrk
01-04-2010, 04:28 PM
LOL

Erik wants it done right and for no DIYer's, everyone said " its easy "

But nobody offered to do this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Erik if you are serious about having it done PM me and I will pass on my cousins phone # and you can call him. He specializes in Additions/Master carpenter/Window/Structure and so on.............

He does not deal with junk and will point you in the right direction on quality

Everyone says its easy, and the guy that installed this door probably felt the same. I can do most things myself, but when it comes to SEALING an entryway I'm not terribly confident and would rather have it done RIGHT as this door is used often to let the dog out.

awsomeears
01-04-2010, 07:34 PM
Everyone says its easy, and the guy that installed this door probably felt the same. I can do most things myself, but when it comes to SEALING an entryway I'm not terribly confident and would rather have it done RIGHT as this door is used often to let the dog out.

So..................

If you want to be done right PM me for a Phone number

Lash
01-04-2010, 07:36 PM
So..................

If you want to be done right PM me for a Phone number

Or you could have just PM'd him :stare

:durr

pOrk
01-24-2010, 12:55 PM
I'd just get the $100 insulated/primed steel one from menards. They do dent pretty easy though. Only other real option is a fiberglass door (thye don't make solid wood entry doors anymore....at least not for bulk consumers)....and them shits aint cheap, start at $300. I put a fiberglass front door in and a steel door going into the garage (both pre-hung). They are actually really easy to put in. The hardest part is getting it all squared up nice....especially when you have to do it by yourself..lol. I'm sure you could handle it.

The cheapest quote I got thus far was 300 for install, the door needs to be cut down. :chair: Guess I'm gonna have to spend the big bucks on a wood door

Lash
01-24-2010, 01:06 PM
That sucks.
I think you can cut down fiberglass doors, to a point. Depends on the door. It seems like a lot of dicking around to do it on a F.G. door though.

fly5150
01-24-2010, 01:31 PM
The cheapest quote I got thus far was 300 for install, the door needs to be cut down. :chair: Guess I'm gonna have to spend the big bucks on a wood door

Im guessing you have to rebuild the framing around the door. Getting a complete door with Jamb is the best in the long run. Otherwise getting a solid wood door, and mounting it to the existing jamb works too. I prefer the complete replacment.

pOrk
01-24-2010, 01:42 PM
Im guessing you have to rebuild the framing around the door. Getting a complete door with Jamb is the best in the long run. Otherwise getting a solid wood door, and mounting it to the existing jamb works too. I prefer the complete replacment.

I am looking to buy pre-hung door

I don't want fiberglass, I live on the northside :thumbsup

pOrk
01-24-2010, 02:53 PM
Haha, the guy that said he would do it for 300 called back and said he won't do it now. The dude that was just here was talking about taking a concrete saw and cutting my damn bricks in half. This is not good, not good at all.

Lash
01-24-2010, 04:57 PM
I am looking to buy pre-hung door

I don't want fiberglass, I live on the northside :thumbsup


Have you tried to kick in a fiberglass door?
They are stronger than you think.
I'd trust it more than a 24ga. mild steel door with some foam inside.
Besides... 9 times out of 10 the frame is the part thats going to give way.... not the actual door.

Prince Valiant
01-24-2010, 05:03 PM
Have you tried to kick in a fiberglass door?
They are stronger than you think.
I'd trust it more than a 24ga. mild steel door with some foam inside.
Besides... 9 times out of 10 the frame is the part thats going to give way.... not the actual door.we just had a new steel door put in up front, fiberglass out back...hard pressed to tell a strength difference b/w the two. HELL of alot more sturdy than the wood doors both replaced. :thumbsup

wrath
01-24-2010, 07:12 PM
Have you tried to kick in a fiberglass door?
They are stronger than you think.
I'd trust it more than a 24ga. mild steel door with some foam inside.
Besides... 9 times out of 10 the frame is the part thats going to give way.... not the actual door.

About 90 seconds and a cordless drill with a 3.5" hole saw takes care of a fiberglass door.

Lash
01-24-2010, 09:36 PM
About 90 seconds and a cordless drill with a 3.5" hole saw takes care of a fiberglass door.

Same with a steel. They are only thin metal unless you are buying a commercial grade door.