Good shop for Cobra?

[Fast SVT]

Looking for a good shop to do some work on the Cobra I just bought.

Just looking for suggestions. Probably going to add an aftermarket radiator and some suspension pieces.

[HITMAN]

C&M Automotive (one of BCM's sponsors) does excellent work, and Marv (one of the owners) happens to own a Screaming Yellow '04 Terminator, so he's VERY familiar with the car.

[Fast SVT]

That is great, thank you.

Do they have an email addy? I am still in Iraq.

[xxtremeteam]

http://www.candmperformance.com/

[PureSound15]

C&M is the only choice.

[xxtremeteam]

That is great, thank you.

Do they have an email addy? I am still in Iraq.


I found this off there site as a email mzstang@sbcglobal.net or pm revcoop here Im sure he can get you incontact with them

[70 cutlass 442]

Don't know what type of work you are looking to have done.... but as mentioned, Marve is in Hubertus, or another reputable guy is Corey Simpson (815-645-1199) He also has a dyno and does SCT as well as Diablo sport tuning.

[Feature Pony]

C&M is the only choice.

x2 he is the only guy to touch my 04 cobra

[Reverend Cooper]

x3 on C&M Marv Is the only guy that does all my tuning and such. Tell him I sent you.

[Fast SVT]

I wonder how expensive it would be to change out to ARP head bolts.

[OxmanWI]

Thanks for your service!

[pw_cc_runner]

If there is nothing wrong with your stock radiator and fans I'll gladly take it off your hands.

[Fast SVT]

Thanks for your service!

Thank you.

[kirks5oh]

I wonder how expensive it would be to change out to ARP head bolts.


no reason to do this. these cars rarely blow headgaskets unless you're running big, big boost. stock radiator is also fairly decent. if you're looking to cool things down, go with the killer chiller--it cools your intercooler fluid using the air conditioner. i have one, and my inlet air temps almost never go above 100 degrees. you can run the stock heat exchanger with this as well.

[johnny--2k]

hmmm....killer chiller huh? I might need to look into that. Was thinking about upgrading the stock heat exchanger since I know it's cheap and effective.

[kirks5oh]

hmmm....killer chiller huh? I might need to look into that. Was thinking about upgrading the stock heat exchanger since I know it's cheap and effective.


it actually runs cooler if you keep the stock heat exchanger with the killer chiller. i bought mine for $550. its a lot harder to install than a heat exchanger, but it works much better. i bought it when i lived in florida--it was a must for how hot it was there.

kincaid performance makes the killer chiller

[nismodave]

Everything Ive read is that the stock head bolts are very strong and unless you are looking for xxxx digit #s, the FMS ones will be fine.

[Fast SVT]

Good advice on the head bolts....guess it is a piece of mind thing.

I was told by numerous shops that the killer chiller isn't the greatest.

[HITMAN]

Good advice on the head bolts....guess it is a piece of mind thing.

I was told by numerous shops that the killer chiller isn't the greatest.

Those shops probably don't know anything about it. I had one and it was awesome. A real PITA to install in a Cobra, but I feel that the end results were worth it. Last time at the drags, I only made three passes because the clutch glazed, but each run I made was 3 mph faster than the one before it, and I NEVER shut the car off in the staging lanes, I just let it run with the A/C on. I was running a 2.3 Whipple at 21psi, the K/C, a Fore Precision fuel system, 60lb injectors, an O/R X-pipe and I was making 620 to the wheels. I never had heat soak problems.

[animal]

+1 for Marv.

"Told by numerous shops"... yet asking where to get work done? Heh. Since they're so willing to steer you clear of things couldn't they do the tuning?

I will have statistical analysis concerning the KC this coming spring. It's currently sitting in a box waiting for install.

Note from above, the KC runs even better if you block off your stock heat exchanger with something so air can't flow through it. IC fluid with a KC is always colder than outside so air flow across the fins will only warm up the fluid at that point... well unless it's like 30* out lol.

Last... I'd do the back-of-the-head coolant mod and an IRS brace way before worrying about a new radiator.

[johnny--2k]

...
I'd do the back-of-the-head coolant mod ...


Care to elaborate on this one a bit?

[animal]

Care to elaborate on this one a bit?

Far as I've been told, it's supposed to prevent "the tick" by helping to cool the back of the driver-side head by adjusting the coolant flow pattern. I'm not a terminator owner so I haven't researched it fully but I think just about every termy owner i know has had this done.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/487018-terminator-custom-head-cooling-mod.html

There's prolly other brands available this was just an example. Terminator guys or Marv can direct you to them I'm sure.

[PureSound15]

Far as I've been told, it's supposed to prevent "the tick" by helping to cool the back of the driver-side head by adjusting the coolant flow pattern. I'm not a terminator owner so I haven't researched it fully but I think just about every termy owner i know has had this done.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/487018-terminator-custom-head-cooling-mod.html

There's prolly other brands available this was just an example. Terminator guys or Marv can direct you to them I'm sure.

I have yet to do this on mine - even front under the car I can't see how it would be easy to do. I'm sure there are guys who have done enough of them that they can do it without pulling the motor, though.

[animal]

I have yet to do this on mine - even front under the car I can't see how it would be easy to do. I'm sure there are guys who have done enough of them that they can do it without pulling the motor, though.

I didn't know that the older cobras had the tick problem, unless it's just more prevalent in the factory boosted cars? Far as I know you need to pull the trans and you can do it from underneath.

[PureSound15]

I didn't know that the older cobras had the tick problem, unless it's just more prevalent in the factory boosted cars? Far as I know you need to pull the trans and you can do it from underneath.

The coolant mod, from what I've read, is a must for any 4.6 that's 400+ hp or boosted. I'd imagine it's even more important with the heat created with the factory blower.

mine is intercooled with the centri so it's not too bad.

Better safe than sorry I suppose.

[PureSound15]

Coolant mod:

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11294

[Feature Pony]

The coolant mod, from what I've read, is a must for any 4.6 that's 400+ hp or boosted. I'd imagine it's even more important with the heat created with the factory blower.

mine is intercooled with the centri so it's not too bad.

Better safe than sorry I suppose.

03-04 cobras and Mach 1's have the newer heads where coolant will pool in the back of the head causing heat which will burn up pistons at WOT high speed runs, the coolant mod will help to a point.

[Reverend Cooper]

I have heard mixed reviews on that coolant mod from owners and people that work on them,My own personal opinion is keeping the coolant moving cant be a bad thing period.

[animal]

03-04 cobras and Mach 1's have the newer heads where coolant will pool in the back of the head causing heat which will burn up pistons at WOT high speed runs, the coolant mod will help to a point.

I thought it just caused something with the valve guides to foul and then you end up with the tick? :confused

[Windsors 03 Cobra]

I thought it just caused something with the valve guides to foul and then you end up with the tick? :confused

Pretty sure you are right, I did the evenflow cooling mod which goes into a boss on the top of the cylinder head, was easy to do and the piece of mind of coolant flushing heat away from that hotspot was worth the $100 or whatever I gave for the pieces. IMO heat is the enemy especially in this type of app.
I think the piston woes are due to .001 piston to wall clearance I mean thats less than a cunt hair a side and then to pour superheated albeit aftercooled boost onto those slugs they grow a country mile the detonation melts ring lands and it gets ugly fast.
50k successfull miles on an 02 built Cobra here, Mexican alt did puke. :flipoff2:
Thailand power window motors still rocking steady. :thumbsup

I was happy with Marv's tune, I did all my own bolt on work and he tuned it.

[animal]

I think the piston woes are due to .001 piston to wall clearance I mean thats less than a cunt hair a side and then to pour superheated albeit aftercooled boost onto those slugs they grow a country mile the detonation melts ring lands and it gets ugly fast.

Just be happy you got nice connecting rods from the factory. ;)

Some of us modular guys aren't so lucky. :(

[BlackLightning]

Just be happy you got nice connecting rods from the factory. ;)

Some of us modular guys aren't so lucky. :(

that's just a good excuse to go built :thumbsup

[johnny--2k]

Coolant mod:

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=11294

That looks like a complete PITA!!!

[Feature Pony]

That looks like a complete PITA!!!

You do that mod when your replacing your clutch. Nobody knows what the tick is, it could be all sorts of things. Who knows :confused

[johnny--2k]

yeah, I suppose. I got lucky though, I have lifetime engine warranty on mine for everything internally lubricated! :headbang

[animal]

yeah, I suppose. I got lucky though, I have lifetime engine warranty on mine for everything internally lubricated! :headbang

The people that had the "unfixable" tick had engine warranties too ;)

From everything i've read and heard, helping to prevent the tick is much easier than trying to fix it.

[kirks5oh]

my car has the head cooling mod--it (can) be done with the blower on the car, but i did mine when i installed the whipple--it allows outflow for coolant at the back of the driver's side head, cooling down the area that would allow pistons #7 and 8 to scuff the cylinder walls during prolonged boost (even in stock cars, if you did multiple back-to-back highway pulls).

i would opt for subframes, the cooling mod, and an IRS brace way before the radiator. i have plenty of data on the killer chiller--i have aeroforce guages and monitor my inlet air temps. when i lived in florida, they would routinely go to 150's and as high as 160 at stoplights. after the install, they would only go to 130 at most, and were in the 100's while cruising. here in wisconsin, they rarely go above 110 even at lights.

i took my car to the strip and left the a/c on the whole time. the a/c clutch disengages the system at WOT, so you don't have to worry. after installing the killer chiller, i no longer get condensation or water dripping, so i don't have to worry about that at the strip either. intercooler fluid is literally in the 50's temp-wise. its a bitch to install on a cobra, but i did it, and have average/slightly above average mechanical skills.