Are there any Electrical Engineers or Circuitry Pro's here? LED wiring questions.

[twicks69]

I am looking to do a bit of LED wiring in an automotive application and am looking for a bit of technical advice, along with where I can purchase bridge rectifiers for my application.


Ok, here's the plan.... I am wiring up 4 fuel pumps in my car (two in-tank fuel pumps with individual feed lines and two in-line fuel pumps) using two 12V 40A 2-signal 5-prong relays. I already know how to wire this stuff up, as it has been completed by myself in the past. What I want to do though, is utilize a 2-color red/green 2-wire LED on each fuel pump power wire to signal the following:
*Off = Off (car in OFF position or relay blown)
*Fuel pump relay powered, but fuel pump off = red (car in ACC or on position, but fuel pump not running or fuel pump failure)
*Fuel pump relay powered, and fuel pump running = green. (fuel pump running)

I plan on having 4 LED's in my dash so that I have a nice indicator of when my pumps are running, and when I have a failure based on voltage to the fuel pump(s).

The LED's that I am using are 3mm 1.8-2.0V, 20mA capacity. Calculated LED current is 17.65mA, and calculated resistor wattage is 0.22W when using a 680-ohm 0.5w resistor. I am looking to keep the LED brightness at its nominal MCD of 20mA.

So...I know I need a bridge rectifier (or diode bridge) --> to a smoothing capacitor --> to a 680ohm 0.5w resistor --> to one LED. I should have a total of 4 sets of this setup, as I will have one per power signal wire from the two relays.

What I need to find out though, is where can I find the properly sized bridge rectifier? Will a 1.4A 100V full-wave bridge rectifier work? Is there one smaller that properly fits my application? As well, what size smoothing capacitor should I go with? What would be the best micro-farad rating? What voltage rating?

As well, where could I find a small circuit board to run these components on? I am looking to use this in my center console and would want the smallest package possible. I can always pigtail each LED and have the wires extended up to the dash, then countersink some holes and fit in the LED's into the dash.



Now....will the 2-color usage of the LED be possible with this setup? How would I wire it so that I can have the green and red diodes turn on like I described above?

I haven't done circuitry in close to 25 years -- last time I learned how to do it was when I was a child watching my mother do circuitry for her degree in the 80's.

I know this is asking alot, but I would really appreciate it!

[lilws6]

i know ebay has a bunch of different size solder boards witch i use for my led dome lights and stuff. but i don't know what your talking about with the bridge rec. and smoothing cap. i just wire all mine in series/parralel and call it a day lol

[twicks69]

i know ebay has a bunch of different size solder boards witch i use for my led dome lights and stuff. but i don't know what your talking about with the bridge rec. and smoothing cap. i just wire all mine in series/parralel and call it a day lol

Don't you have voltage or brightness variation issues because you are not smoothing out the waveform? I really don't want to have pulsing issues because I am going to be having these pointing towards me at all times. As well, I don't want anyone that is purchasing these to have these issues. Knowing that your fuel pumps are running shouldn't be annoying with pulsing LED's.

[PonyKiller87]

I can do a little reading in one of my books when I get home but here are my first thoughts.

Its in a car, 12VDC so I don't think you need a rectifier.

Depending on how you connect the LED's to the power wire they might get brighter/dimmer as the pump draws more or less current due to load. The capacitor will help smooth that out, but it could also hide surging if you have a pump thats getting ready to fail. You could use a small solid state relay (forgot the tech name for it?) to switch the LED on, yet be isolated from the current that the pump is drawing. This would work well for turning the Green LED on when the pump gets power. I think the hard part will be getting a signal to tell the green to go off and the red to come on when the pump fails, not sure what exacly you would look for because in some cases a failure would cause no current and in others it would cause high current....

Bottom line, can it be done, yes, but its going to take some thinking.

As for parts, just search yahoo for DIY LED or DIY circuit boards, there are tons of places out there to get parts cheep. And making your own printed circuit boards isn't hard at all, just need a lazer printer.

[twicks69]

Kevin, isn't the power in 12V AC? If it is in DC, then yeah, I wouldn't need a voltage rectifier.

As well, if I use a SSR to switch the LED on, wouldn't I need a heat-sink as well? Couldn't I just wire a signal wire from my fuel pump relay to the LED/resistor?

As well, if I was going to need a SSR, the smallest one I could find was a 60V DC 3-amp SSR at:

http://www.opto22.com/site/pr_details.aspx?cid=3&item=DC60P from Opto 22, or:

Omron - G3M-102PL-US-4-DC12 which is 12V DC 2-amp SSR.

I am sure that there are more out there, I just don't know where to properly search for these parts on a small quantity scale.


As well, the bi-color LED's are connected in inverse-parallel, so essentially they would change colors based on polarity on a DC current. Here's a link to what I am talking about -- scroll down to "bi-color LED's": http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_8.html



I am totally a newb and am just trying to find out what direction I should be going in with this project.


I can do a little reading in one of my books when I get home but here are my first thoughts.

Its in a car, 12VDC so I don't think you need a rectifier.

Depending on how you connect the LED's to the power wire they might get brighter/dimmer as the pump draws more or less current due to load. The capacitor will help smooth that out, but it could also hide surging if you have a pump thats getting ready to fail. You could use a small solid state relay (forgot the tech name for it?) to switch the LED on, yet be isolated from the current that the pump is drawing. This would work well for turning the Green LED on when the pump gets power. I think the hard part will be getting a signal to tell the green to go off and the red to come on when the pump fails, not sure what exacly you would look for because in some cases a failure would cause no current and in others it would cause high current....

Bottom line, can it be done, yes, but its going to take some thinking.

As for parts, just search yahoo for DIY LED or DIY circuit boards, there are tons of places out there to get parts cheep. And making your own printed circuit boards isn't hard at all, just need a lazer printer.

[PonyKiller87]

Tim,

Its 12V DC, the alternator has a built in voltage regulator to convert it from AC to DC... Pretty much any system that relys on a battery is going to be a DC system.

Getting the signal from the fuel pump relay would work fine to tell you when the pump has power, still not sure what it will take to tell you when it has power but has failed. It might be easier to put a preasure switch in the line, set it up so if the pressure goes below a set point the red light kicks on.

As for heat sink, for the small LED's that your talking about using and keeping them at the correct voltage you shouldn't have to worry about the heat, if anything you could make a small heat sink on the back of the board that has the 4 LED's in it. Most of the SSR's that I use now have the built in heat sink tab on them.

I think this whole thing could be made on a board about 1" x 2", have a power and ground going to it and then use something like cat 5 for signal wires back to the pump relays / sensors...

[twicks69]

Tim,

Its 12V DC, the alternator has a built in voltage regulator to convert it from AC to DC... Pretty much any system that relys on a battery is going to be a DC system.

Getting the signal from the fuel pump relay would work fine to tell you when the pump has power, still not sure what it will take to tell you when it has power but has failed. It might be easier to put a preasure switch in the line, set it up so if the pressure goes below a set point the red light kicks on.

As for heat sink, for the small LED's that your talking about using and keeping them at the correct voltage you shouldn't have to worry about the heat, if anything you could make a small heat sink on the back of the board that has the 4 LED's in it. Most of the SSR's that I use now have the built in heat sink tab on them.

I think this whole thing could be made on a board about 1" x 2", have a power and ground going to it and then use something like cat 5 for signal wires back to the pump relays / sensors...


The thing I am worried about with using the pressure switch on each fuel feed line, is the fact that I am a rising-rate fuel pressure setup because of the forced induction application, so my base idle fuel pressure is 43psi, but under boost it is 1:1, and I am running up to around 100psi of line pressure. If I start to have a dying fuel pump, or low electrical voltage, it will still put out well over 43psi.

With my current fuel setup of twin pumps (one in-tank with one in-line on a -6AN feed line with 4x 135# fuel injectors) I am running 43psi base, and have maxed out the fuel pumps at 779AWHP (~1050HP) at 41psi of boost or 84psi line pressure on 135# injectors. The same setup did 766AWHP (1035HP) on 100# injectors at 49psi of boost or 92psi line pressure.

Only when we videotaped the fuel pressure regulator gauge last on the dyno, we noticed that we were getting pressure drop down to the high 70's because the pumps were maxed out. We were also seeing electrical voltage go from 12.8V-13.7V go down to 11.7V under the load of ~35-41psi of boost on the dyno and in my datalogs from the track.

Because of this, I designed the new quad fuel pump setup with dual -6AN feed lines running to both ends of the fuel rail with a center-mounted -8AN return line to the AFPR and to the tank.

If I went with a pressure switch, what one would I go with?

[BoosTT]

Shit, I'm a EE and all this even has me confused.

There a lot of ways to do it. Easiest IMO would be two current devider circuits per relay (one red circuit, one green circuit). This could get hot, you would need some power resistors, but it would also be very reliable.
Seccond option would be to piggie back some more relays onto the two fuel pump relays. You need to keep 12Vdc and drop the amps a lot. You would need two relays per one fuel pump relay. You would have 4 more total relays (two for red two for green).

Solder all the shit together with wires, hotglue and heatshrink. Theres not enough compoents to justify making a circuit board or even using a proto board.

Get the electronics from:
digikey.com
mouser.com

[WhatsADSM]

No need for any of the AC to DC stuff. Just as pony stated though you will need some device that actually measures the fuel pressure from each pump to tell you if you if the pump has failed.

However it will get even more complicated because what constitutes a failure? Remember your fuel pressure will be raising under boost. So like you said you expect ~90psi of pressure at WOT, so you might think it is unsafe to run below 80psi of fuel pressure so you set your switch to 80psi... However then your failed fuel pump light would always be on anytime you were running less than 40psi of boost pressure.

You will need to rethink what you are doing here because I don't think it will work the way you think.

As a side note, Ron had an idea for a watch dog device that I sort of half implemented that would monitor RPM, fuel pressure, and manifold pressure it could output a warning light or shutdown ignition to save the engine in the case that something went way awry. However that device was going to do some more advanced things like look at manifold pressure, look at fuel pressure, and based on the ratio of the FP regulator it would warn when you had about a 5% underflow and could potentially cut when you had something like a 10% underflow. Again though that was a more complex system, and even that was only monitoring 1 fuel pressure signal (although I guess it could do more).

Also remember with the quad system the fuel pressure isn't the same through all lines in the system. The lines between the in-tank and in-line pumps are much lower than the pressures post in-line. So again that adds another level of complexity.

[WhatsADSM]

Shit, I'm a EE and all this even has me confused.

There a lot of ways to do it. Easiest IMO would be two current devider circuits per relay (one red circuit, one green circuit). This could get hot, you would need some power resistors, but it would also be very reliable.
Seccond option would be to piggie back some more relays onto the two fuel pump relays. You need to keep 12Vdc and drop the amps a lot. You would need two relays per one fuel pump relay. You would have 4 more total relays (two for red two for green).

Solder all the shit together with wires, hotglue and heatshrink. Theres not enough compoents to justify making a circuit board or even using a proto board.

Get the electronics from:
digikey.com
mouser.com


I still don't see how that would correctly identify a failed pump.

[twicks69]

I hear what you are saying Murray, I knew I was taking on a difficult task at hand, and was the reason that I wanted to just limit the setup to just telling me if each fuel pump was on, dead (failed pump or failed relay or blown fuse for the fuel pump), or off.

I am mainly trying to get it "cost effective" as there are a few guys out there that have more than one pump, and wanted to have an indicator to pump failure.

Personally, I really never hear of a Walbro 255HP "failing", it is normally on its way out, with high amperage load, and reduced fuel pressure or flow.

How about a different route...using single-color LED's to show function (on/off), and then using an ammeter (or a current sensor) wired off of each pump to either a gauge display (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=811-1089-ND), or wired into the AEM EMS as additional signal wires to datalog?

[PonyKiller87]

I guess it comes down to do you want to know when the pump has failed, is failing, or just when its not supplying enough fuel pressure for the current boost level?

It sounds like you want to know when its not keeping up with the boost, which makes me think you need something to compare PSI vs FP Not impossible to do but it would be a fairly complicated logic circuit. And doing this would just give you a green light for each pump being on, and then a single red light when FP is to low for the demand based on boost.

[lilws6]

Don't you have voltage or brightness variation issues because you are not smoothing out the waveform? I really don't want to have pulsing issues because I am going to be having these pointing towards me at all times. As well, I don't want anyone that is purchasing these to have these issues. Knowing that your fuel pumps are running shouldn't be annoying with pulsing LED's.

They don't pulse while the vehicle is running but when i open the front doors they come one and open the rear door they get brighter maybe thats whats going on? i had them on my bikes as well and didn't have a pulsing issue but maybe somethign i need to look into i keep burning them up

[twicks69]

Personally, I would prefer on/failed, on/failing.

My new fuel setup won't be an issue of not supplying enough fuel pressure for the current boost levels, as I have effectively doubled my fuel system to 4 fuel pumps. It should be able to capacitate around 2000HP at high fuel pressures. I will be limited by injector size on a single set with my 1350cc injectors. The plan is to go to 8 injectors with 1350cc primaries and then a set of 1600cc injectors, or the newer style Injector Dynamics (bosch) 2200cc secondaries.

I am only going to around 1000AWHP, so I will have an assload of wiggle room for fuel delivery. I am mainly doing this for my car to notify me of a pump failure.

For other people's cars, it would be useful to do it as an on/failed or on/failing application, as they are only running twin fuel pumps off of a single relay, or relays in series, or relays in parallel off the MPI relay or ignition switch.

[PonyKiller87]

Ok, so the pump/relay on part is easy.

To measure the amps your going to need a CT for each pump that the power wire will pass through. Check out CTS06-27 on this link http://www.ecom-intl.com/ct-cts.htm

Ok from that you take the output in ohms to a guage, or you could even make a window switch so if the pump draws more than 20 amps or less than 15 (examples, not sure what the actual numbers would be) it would turn on the light. That would keep it to a simple light without the need for a guage.

[WhatsADSM]

It sounds like you want to know when its not keeping up with the boost, which makes me think you need something to compare PSI vs FP Not impossible to do but it would be a fairly complicated logic circuit. And doing this would just give you a green light for each pump being on, and then a single red light when FP is to low for the demand based on boost.

I think Pony has the right idea. IMO you can have a single electrical green "on" light for each pump which will rule out an electrical source issue (such as a bad relay), and then you have one overall red LED that indicates a loss of fuel pressure based on demand (read manifold pressure).


Personally, I would prefer on/failed, on/failing.

My new fuel setup won't be an issue of not supplying enough fuel pressure for the current boost levels, as I have effectively doubled my fuel system to 4 fuel pumps. It should be able to capacitate around 2000HP at high fuel pressures. I will be limited by injector size on a single set with my 1350cc injectors. The plan is to go to 8 injectors with 1350cc primaries and then a set of 1600cc injectors, or the newer style Injector Dynamics (bosch) 2200cc secondaries.

I am only going to around 1000AWHP, so I will have an assload of wiggle room for fuel delivery. I am mainly doing this for my car to notify me of a pump failure.

For other people's cars, it would be useful to do it as an on/failed or on/failing application, as they are only running twin fuel pumps off of a single relay, or relays in series, or relays in parallel off the MPI relay or ignition switch.

I think you are missing the point that you can not tell that a fuel pump is failing based on the voltage and/or current delivery to the pump(s) alone. Sure that is one point of failure, but there are other failures which can occur which look fine from the electrical point but bad from a mechanical point. In fact most of my pumps have failed and must have killed a seal or something because the pump had the correct voltage, the load current was correct however the damn thing just wasn't flowing anything.


The idea that you can have a circuit to see if a specific fuel pump is failing isn't impossible but it is a lot more complex than what you are thinking. You would need a fuel pressure sender at 4 different points, then you would need to characterize the system against demand under normal, working, conditions and then setup something that indenifies if any of the 4 points of fuel pressure look incorrect again based on the demand.

Pony's idea of simply having an LED for each pump indicating if they have power and a single failure LED which is based on fuel pressure versus demand is probably your best bet. Even that will be still more complex to implement with discrete components then what you initially invisioned.

[BoosTT]

......

[BoosTT]

Ok, so the pump/relay on part is easy.

To measure the amps your going to need a CT for each pump that the power wire will pass through. Check out CTS06-27 on this link http://www.ecom-intl.com/ct-cts.htm

Ok from that you take the output in ohms to a guage, or you could even make a window switch so if the pump draws more than 20 amps or less than 15 (examples, not sure what the actual numbers would be) it would turn on the light. That would keep it to a simple light without the need for a guage.



I like that idea best. More current = more load. You could have a red line on the fuel pump gauge as to when they'll blow. lol.

[WhatsADSM]

I like that idea best. More current = more load. You could have a red line on the fuel pump gauge as to when they'll blow. lol.



I think you are missing the point that you can not tell that a fuel pump is failing based on the voltage and/or current delivery to the pump(s) alone. Sure that is one point of failure, but there are other failures which can occur which look fine from the electrical point but bad from a mechanical point. In fact most of my pumps have failed and must have killed a seal or something because the pump had the correct voltage, the load current was correct however the damn thing just wasn't flowing anything.

[PonyKiller87]

Exacly what he said ^

If your data logging already I would just install a pressure sensor on your fuel rail near the injectors so you are getting an accurate reading of what they see, hook up a gauge and data log it. If your fuel system is that robust chances are it will still keep up if 1 pump is failing or failed, but you will see the drop or fluctuation in the log.

On a side note, not sure how you have all the pumps rigged up but do you need check valves in front of each pump so if one does fail your not forcing fuel back through it from the other one?

[PonyKiller87]

I like that idea best. More current = more load. You could have a red line on the fuel pump gauge as to when they'll blow. lol.

Kind of, it all depends how the pump fails. If the seals just blow out of it, it current could go down because its not moving as much fluid anymore.... Current would be a good way to watch it but not fool proof.

[twicks69]

Exacly what he said ^

If your data logging already I would just install a pressure sensor on your fuel rail near the injectors so you are getting an accurate reading of what they see, hook up a gauge and data log it. If your fuel system is that robust chances are it will still keep up if 1 pump is failing or failed, but you will see the drop or fluctuation in the log.

On a side note, not sure how you have all the pumps rigged up but do you need check valves in front of each pump so if one does fail your not forcing fuel back through it from the other one?

The in-tank pumps have built-in valves. The in-line's do not. The in-line's can be used as a booster pump if you like and can be turned on based upon whatever parameter you choose with a bit of wiring and wizardry. Most people have them based off a pressure switch so that it turns on via boost pressure. I just run all 4 at the same time, all the time. This is the reason I am running a -8AN return so that I can capacitate the excess fuel pressure at idle/low throttle conditions.

[twicks69]

Pony's idea of simply having an LED for each pump indicating if they have power and a single failure LED which is based on fuel pressure versus demand is probably your best bet. Even that will be still more complex to implement with discrete components then what you initially invisioned.

Ok, now lets say I went this route instead. I know my bi-color LED's can be used if I wanted, it just won't be used to its actual capabilities.

Now, for wiring in the LED's to indicate that each fuel pump has power. The wiring should be the ground and positive signal wire for each fuel pump, with a resistor in-line with the LED, correct? Take this process and do it 4 times over?

As for the LED designed to turn on as a warning light for fuel pressure vs. demand. How would I go about running this?

[PonyKiller87]

For your power on, I would connect a single wire to the hot wire coming off your FP relay and going to the fuel pump. Grabbing the power there would tell you if the pump is running, if you just use the FP relay control power it would only tell you if the relay should be on.

Take that single hot from the relay to another relay or SSR. You don't need the ground wire from the pump just use any common ground near where you put your SSR or LED. Grab a hot wire from cig lighter or guage circuit or something up in the dash, use that to power your LED. Put your resistors for the LED after the SSR.

Your warning light you just need a pressure switch or presure sensor. Use that to operate another SSR to turn on the red light.

[1320PNY]

Crouzet Millenium III

http://www.crouzet.com/millenium3/html/en/home-en.htm


Programmable Logic Relay. We use these all the time in our equipment. I have been programming these things for about 7 years and we can make it do anything you want.

I have 12VDC units for a project in house. It would be a fun project on your car. I would be willing to work with you on setting it up.

Let me know if you want to go this route.

[PonyKiller87]

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa255/PonyKiller87/FPWarning.jpg

[PonyKiller87]

The presure warning part here is about as simple as it gets, you have a pressure switch that is closed to ground at a set pressure, anything less and it opens causing the light to come on. If you used something like 1320 is talking about you could make it work better to change when it warns or not.

[twicks69]

Crouzet Millenium III

http://www.crouzet.com/millenium3/html/en/home-en.htm


Programmable Logic Relay. We use these all the time in our equipment. I have been programming these things for about 7 years and we can make it do anything you want.

I have 12VDC units for a project in house. It would be a fun project on your car. I would be willing to work with you on setting it up.

Let me know if you want to go this route.


I would be interested, as it would be an interesting way to set it up for recognizing fuel pressure vs. boost pressure differential under load, to warn if the differential increases (fuel pressure dropping) above the given differential values. It would have to be fairly accurate, as even a 2.5% difference in the differential would be significant. For example, at 43psi of boost, the fuel pressure should be at ~86psi. If it even dropped 6psi, that would change the differential from 1.5 to 1.5375, which is a 2.5% change, but significant in the scheme of things when you are tuning.

Also, how much does a 12VDC unit cost? I found some new Millenium 3's for ~$250, and used ones around $75, but they were for 100-240VAC setups.

[twicks69]

The presure warning part here is about as simple as it gets, you have a pressure switch that is closed to ground at a set pressure, anything less and it opens causing the light to come on. If you used something like 1320 is talking about you could make it work better to change when it warns or not.

Kevin, what type of specifications should I be looking for with a solid state relay in these conditions? I am not sure where to look for the proper one, or how to calculate which one would be best for my application.

Thanks in advance!

[WhatsADSM]

Ok, now lets say I went this route instead. I know my bi-color LED's can be used if I wanted, it just won't be used to its actual capabilities.

Now, for wiring in the LED's to indicate that each fuel pump has power. The wiring should be the ground and positive signal wire for each fuel pump, with a resistor in-line with the LED, correct? Take this process and do it 4 times over?

As for the LED designed to turn on as a warning light for fuel pressure vs. demand. How would I go about running this?

IMO this is the simplest and easiest way to run the LED for the fuel pump "on" LED. Otherwise you could run another SSR or something for the LEDs but it really isn't needed.

As for the fuel pressure vs. demand, you *could* build it in discrete components, but you are likely better to run something with a uC of some sort.

If you are serious about wanting it, I can lay out something and write a little bit of code for you to do it. It would be a box with 6 LED drivers out (1 for each pump "on", 1 for fuel pressure warning, 1 for fuel pressure failure), 4 inputs for the fuel pump "on" signal and 2 wires out... One for MAP, one for fuel pressure. Do you have a fuel pressure sender of some sort already?

[twicks69]

IMO this is the simplest and easiest way to run the LED for the fuel pump "on" LED. Otherwise you could run another SSR or something for the LEDs but it really isn't needed.

As for the fuel pressure vs. demand, you *could* build it in discrete components, but you are likely better to run something with a uC of some sort.

If you are serious about wanting it, I can lay out something and write a little bit of code for you to do it. It would be a box with 6 LED drivers out (1 for each pump "on", 1 for fuel pressure warning, 1 for fuel pressure failure), 4 inputs for the fuel pump "on" signal and 2 wires out... One for MAP, one for fuel pressure. Do you have a fuel pressure sender of some sort already?


I am currently not running an aftermarket fuel pressure sender, I only have the gauge on my AFPR, and was considering changing over to an electronic fuel pressure sender on my AFPR and wiring it up to the AEM to datalog the fuel pressure itself. I am using an Aeromotive A1000-6 AFPR, and will be utilizing two -6AN feed lines with a single -6AN return line from rail to AFPR, and a -8AN return line with the single fuel rail application. The dual rail application will just be an adjustment to two -6AN return lines from rail to AFPR, and -8AN return line.

If I did so, I was thinking of using it at the AFPR with a 1/8" NPT to -6AN adaptor, a 90-degree -6AN to male swivel 1/8" NPT, to a 1/8" NPT Female coupling. The Earl's part numbers are 981662, 923162 and 991001. The fuel pressure sensor is an autometer 3363 0-100 psig sensor w/ 1/8" NPT fitting.

Would I need an additional MAP on top of my current 5-bar MAP? Or are we able to tap into the existing MAP?


Here is a little drawing of the fuel pump setup:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachments/drivetrain-tech/99595d1251059082-quarter-master-clutch-sneek-peek-prototype-design-twin-disk-quad-fuel-pump-setup-copy.jpg

[WhatsADSM]

I am currently not running an aftermarket fuel pressure sender, I only have the gauge on my AFPR, and was considering changing over to an electronic fuel pressure sender on my AFPR and wiring it up to the AEM to datalog the fuel pressure itself. I am using an Aeromotive A1000-6 AFPR, and will be utilizing two -6AN feed lines with a single -6AN return line from rail to AFPR, and a -8AN return line with the single fuel rail application. The dual rail application will just be an adjustment to two -6AN return lines from rail to AFPR, and -8AN return line.

If I did so, I was thinking of using it at the AFPR with a 1/8" NPT to -6AN adaptor, a 90-degree -6AN to male swivel 1/8" NPT, to a 1/8" NPT Female coupling. The Earl's part numbers are 981662, 923162 and 991001. The fuel pressure sensor is an autometer 3363 0-100 psig sensor w/ 1/8" NPT fitting.

Would I need an additional MAP on top of my current 5-bar MAP? Or are we able to tap into the existing MAP?


Here is a little drawing of the fuel pump setup:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachments/drivetrain-tech/99595d1251059082-quarter-master-clutch-sneek-peek-prototype-design-twin-disk-quad-fuel-pump-setup-copy.jpg

It can reuse your existing map sensor, no need to get a new one.

Only thing that worries me is your existing fuel pressure guage. I'm not sure that that gauge has a linear 0-5v output which could be used to connect to the AEM EMS/your FP monitoring LED circuit. Research shows most use the Autometer 2246 to interface to other circuits and/or EMSs, and has a 0-5v output.

[twicks69]

It can reuse your existing map sensor, no need to get a new one.

Only thing that worries me is your existing fuel pressure guage. I'm not sure that that gauge has a linear 0-5v output which could be used to connect to the AEM EMS/your FP monitoring LED circuit. Research shows most use the Autometer 2246 to interface to other circuits and/or EMSs, and has a 0-5v output.

I don't have the gauge or sender -- I can easily order up the 2246 if needed.

[WhatsADSM]

I don't have the gauge or sender -- I can easily order up the 2246 if needed.

Yea then I would order either the 2246 and the harness for it otherwise you can also keep it in the AEM family and order a 150 PSIG Fluid Sensor Kit (PN #30-2130-150) or the 100psi version (30-2130-100)

Send me a PM and we can talk more

[twicks69]

Sounds good!


Thanks!