Done with it (for the year).

[TheRX7Project]

It's pissed me off for the last time.

Rewind to July. I started having problems with a miss at higher RPM which got progressively worse. I traced the problem back to the magnetic pickups in the distributor. I couldn't really afford a new distributor, so I hooked the leading plugs up to the trailing side of the ignition and got the car running that way. (Rotaries have 2 ignition systems, a "leading" and "trailing". The leading fires the actual "power" plugs, the trailing fires a second set of plugs to clean up extra fuel). I drove the car once or twice like this, but wanted to get a new distributor. I should've stuck with it, as it worked. The car ran. I could drive it.

Now fast forward to September. I got a "new to me" distributor. Everything seems in order so I drop it in. It still wouldn't run right. Backfiring like crazy and won't stay running. Turns out the distributor was off a tooth. My fault. I advance it a tooth and get the car idling just fine, just like it used to run. Sweet. So I jump back in the driver's seat, and as soon as I step on the gas, I get "pop pop sputter pop". It won't rev past 2500.

No problem I figure, the timing must still be off a little. So I break out the timing light, and get the timing dead on (rotaries aren't real picky, but they like timing at 0* TDC at idle). Still won't rev. Gets to 2500 and just completely dies, like it's hitting a rev limiter. Just running all around odd. Seems to rev great, all the way up to the "rev limiter". Advance the timing, no better. Retard the timing, no better. No matter what I do with the timing, it won't rev past 2500.

2 weeks ago I brought my dad out to see if he had any ideas. The window regulator on the driver's side went bad that night. We played with the timing, we checked for vacuum leaks. We tried using just the secondaries on the carb. We tried choking it. We tried giving it more air. It wouldn't rev.

So fast forward to today. The car has been sitting in that storage lot since mid September. I rewired my entire ignition, except the plug wires. New plugs. Hell I even drove it on Wednesday night to move it to another spot (owner of the lot wanted the corner for his boat), and it ran fine... up to 2500.

Today I swapped the carb for this 450 Holley my dad had sitting around. I wanted a smaller carb anyway, since the 600 that was on there was a little bit "overkill". I figure maybe one of the backfires took out the power valve. It can't hurt. Worst thing that can happen is nothing.

And that's exactly what happened. Now, it won't even fire. Even with a shot of ether, it just cranks and cranks and cranks...

So I'm done for the year. I'm done. I figure by spring maybe I'll pick up a NEW Holley 450 carb (I think the one I stole from the garage is jacked) and see where it goes from there. It's not like it can get any worse.

Worst case scenario, running 12A's are only a few hundred bucks. Maybe I'll just start fresh.

[Turbo-Triumph]

If you want you can use the carb off the triumph motor until i need it back. i believe its a 450cfm holley, and i wont need it for some years probobly.

also did you try starting it in the dark to check for arcing plug wires?

things ide do next if i were you:

install my carb,
check continuity of plug wires,
make sure all ground wires are making good connection

sound dumb w/ the ground wire things but i helped adam put a clutch in a neon once and afterward it ran like what you said, it turned out to be the motor-to-chassis ground

[Doc Brown]

Or you could just join the dark side and buy a DeLorean.


Or an Isuzu trooper with a broken transmission. Then it would be a race!

[Turbo-Triumph]

Or you could just join the dark side and buy a DeLorean.


Or an Isuzu trooper with a broken transmission. Then it would be a race!


mike?

[70challenger452]

It's pissed me off for the last time.

Rewind to July. I started having problems with a miss at higher RPM which got progressively worse. I traced the problem back to the magnetic pickups in the distributor. I couldn't really afford a new distributor, so I hooked the leading plugs up to the trailing side of the ignition and got the car running that way. (Rotaries have 2 ignition systems, a "leading" and "trailing". The leading fires the actual "power" plugs, the trailing fires a second set of plugs to clean up extra fuel). I drove the car once or twice like this, but wanted to get a new distributor. I should've stuck with it, as it worked. The car ran. I could drive it.

Now fast forward to September. I got a "new to me" distributor. Everything seems in order so I drop it in. It still wouldn't run right. Backfiring like crazy and won't stay running. Turns out the distributor was off a tooth. My fault. I advance it a tooth and get the car idling just fine, just like it used to run. Sweet. So I jump back in the driver's seat, and as soon as I step on the gas, I get "pop pop sputter pop". It won't rev past 2500.

No problem I figure, the timing must still be off a little. So I break out the timing light, and get the timing dead on (rotaries aren't real picky, but they like timing at 0* TDC at idle). Still won't rev. Gets to 2500 and just completely dies, like it's hitting a rev limiter. Just running all around odd. Seems to rev great, all the way up to the "rev limiter". Advance the timing, no better. Retard the timing, no better. No matter what I do with the timing, it won't rev past 2500.

2 weeks ago I brought my dad out to see if he had any ideas. The window regulator on the driver's side went bad that night. We played with the timing, we checked for vacuum leaks. We tried using just the secondaries on the carb. We tried choking it. We tried giving it more air. It wouldn't rev.

So fast forward to today. The car has been sitting in that storage lot since mid September. I rewired my entire ignition, except the plug wires. New plugs. Hell I even drove it on Wednesday night to move it to another spot (owner of the lot wanted the corner for his boat), and it ran fine... up to 2500.

Today I swapped the carb for this 450 Holley my dad had sitting around. I wanted a smaller carb anyway, since the 600 that was on there was a little bit "overkill". I figure maybe one of the backfires took out the power valve. It can't hurt. Worst thing that can happen is nothing.

And that's exactly what happened. Now, it won't even fire. Even with a shot of ether, it just cranks and cranks and cranks...

So I'm done for the year. I'm done. I figure by spring maybe I'll pick up a NEW Holley 450 carb (I think the one I stole from the garage is jacked) and see where it goes from there. It's not like it can get any worse.

Worst case scenario, running 12A's are only a few hundred bucks. Maybe I'll just start fresh.

I say save up and get a whole MSD set up, it will solve any ignition problem you will ever have.

[VroomPshhTsi]

Cars, almost as frustrating as women.... almost

[lordairgtar]

Cars, almost as frustrating as women.... almost
It's a lot easier to sell off the car than the woman.

[theavenger333]

I say save up and get a whole MSD set up, it will solve any ignition problem you will ever have.

[TheRX7Project]

I say save up and get a whole MSD set up, it will solve any ignition problem you will ever have.

I have a DFLDIS ignition already. Dan, is that 450 the one with the red on it? If so, it's on my car.

[Turbo-Triumph]

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb63/chillinsince12087/triumph-02.jpg

no red

its at uncle mikes

[Turbo-Triumph]

and the 1 with the red i thinks off the turbo dart concoction

[Prince Valiant]

The old saying is 90% of carb problems come from the ignition. Break out the multimeter, find out the correct voltage/resistance of each piece along the way and start checking.

Go to the basics...do you have a spark? If so, your timing is probably way off for it to be no start even with ether.

plug wires still good?

coil?

If your distributer has a reluctor and mag pick-up, make sure it's gapped correctly, and check the ressistance...

[TheRX7Project]

Coils are new MSD Blaster 2's. Plug wires were replaced the beginning of this year, but I'm not ruling them out yet. Magnetic pickups in the distributor are gapped right, but I haven't checked the resistance. Ignitors are new as of September, the last time the car ran right.

The car started and ran (but still wouldn't rev past 2500) the same day before I changed the carb, so I'm ruling out ignition and timing. I re-wired the ignition box and wanted to see if that solved the problem, but it didn't make a difference.

[That_Guy]

just 2jz swap it already..

[Turbo-Triumph]

The car started and ran (but still wouldn't rev past 2500) the same day before I changed the carb, so I'm ruling out ignition and timing. I re-wired the ignition box and wanted to see if that solved the problem, but it didn't make a difference.


doesnt matter if the new carb you put on isnt good. trust me i found out the hard way :rolleyes:

you took apart your old carb to check for anything hanging up/gummed up, right?

my q is why are you ruling out the ignition and timing? the problem obviously got worse, after you worked on it... un-do what you did and restart the investigation. lol

[Cryptic]

buy my 13b :D

[TheRX7Project]

doesnt matter if the new carb you put on isnt good. trust me i found out the hard way :rolleyes:

you took apart your old carb to check for anything hanging up/gummed up, right?

my q is why are you ruling out the ignition and timing? the problem obviously got worse, after you worked on it... un-do what you did and restart the investigation. lol

OK listen. I started the car and ran it, with the old carb on, the same day that it wouldn't start with the new carb. So obviously the new carb is keeping it from starting. Plus, the new carb seems to have trouble with the accelerator pump.

I actually just talked to (my) dad like 2 hours ago and told him this, and he said he couldn't get that carb to work for him either, so why he gave it to me "to try and get my car running" is beyond me. I told him the same thing I'm going to tell you, I'm going to take apart that 600 I had on it (which at least halfway works) and see if something is wrong with it.

The reason I have ruled out ignition and timing is that no matter what changes I have made to the ignition and timing, it has made little to no difference in how the car runs. It still won't rev regardless of the changes I make. I didn't make any changes yesterday except re-wiring the ignition box (which had no effect) and changing the carb (which made the car not start).

And BTW you dumbass the carb off your Triumph is a 2bbl. But thanks anyway :D

Cryptic I am open to donations :goof

[Turbo-Triumph]

meh... 2 barrel or 4 barrel... whats the diff. lol

I missunderstood what you wrote before, and thought you thought the problem was 100% forsurely carb related.

were is the car at? if you want help working on it LMK i dont have anything planned for tommorrow, and i have a good multimeter.

[TheRX7Project]

Working tomorrow. I'm not off til Wednesday. I don't want help with it at the moment. I'm done for the year. I'm going to rebuild the 600 over the winter and come spring hopefully she'll fire up right.

[WhatsADSM]

This is a hint it is new motor time! 13bs are pretty cheap.

[HY35F2T]

This is a hint it is new motor time! 13bs are pretty cheap.
and from what i hear really local :goof

[TheRX7Project]

This is a hint it is new motor time! 13bs are pretty cheap.

Not the 13b I want to build ;)

[FoxStang]

20b?

[TheRX7Project]

I'd love to build either a 20b or 26b, but the kit is $6k. The 20b is a little more reasonable. Most likely I'll be building a 6-port 13b with large ported turbo II rotor housings and the actuators removed from the intake. Start off n/a then later on boost it with a draw-through-carb turbo setup. Keep it old school but still make enough power.

Until I can build the 26b...