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pOrk
09-14-2009, 08:16 AM
Going to measure and head over to menards today, anyone know how to install windows? I'd like to try it myself but could use a hand as I am new to this remodeling crap :thumbsup

TheRX7Project
09-14-2009, 08:18 AM
I have a friend that knows how to do this, his brother is a contractor. I'll try and get ahold of him, but I know it won't be free (not sure if you're looking to pay someone or not).

pOrk
09-14-2009, 08:20 AM
I have no problem paying someone to give me a hand as long as its cheaper then having them installed

TheRX7Project
09-14-2009, 08:22 AM
OK I'll try to get ahold of him but I know his next day off is Wednesday.

07ROUSHSTG3
09-14-2009, 08:26 AM
good luck. isn't there always on advertisement on 620 that talks about free installation or $99 installation?!?! window world or something like that?

Doc Brown
09-14-2009, 08:26 AM
I'll need that number as well.

Russ Jerome
09-14-2009, 08:31 AM
Have you uncased and measured the actual opening yet or are you replacing an original?

jbiscuit
09-14-2009, 08:31 AM
Replacing windows is cakewalk. Do a lil research online for the step by step. You'll have to figure out if yours will go in from the inside (probably) or the outside. Remove sash stops inside carefully so you can reuse them, remove old window sashes being careful not to break the glass. Remove the parting strip at the top. Remove old exterior screens (if you have them). Silicone caulk the corners and the inside of the window stop where the window will touch. Shim the new window centered to the opening and use some insulation or expanding foam to fill the voids to prevent drafts. Put a couple screws through the predrilled holes in the window itself. Reinstall the sash stops with a nail gun. 100% silicone caulk the outside and the inside at the sill. Done.

jbiscuit
09-14-2009, 08:33 AM
Have you uncased and measured the actual opening yet or are you replacing an original?

open the window partway and measure from the top of the window (to the very top) to the top of the sill. Width is inner dimension side to side :thumbsup

TheRX7Project
09-14-2009, 08:36 AM
I'll need that number as well.

I'll get you his number too, after I get it from him, if he's interested in even doing the work (idk why he wouldn't be). I had it in my old phone but I really don't talk to him outside of work, so I gotta email him at work and wait for his reply.

u_say_go
09-14-2009, 08:38 AM
Jay has it about 90% right. Best bet, do NOT use the expanding foam to insulate. Use regular insulation, approx. 1 to 2 inches thick and 3-4 inches wide to fill gaps on top, bottom and side of window. Norandex/Reynolds sells rolls of insulation specifically for window installers called "sill seal". Run a bead of silicone around entire window where the trim butts up to the window. You will probably need to have someone come out and install new aluminum trim on the outside of the window too.
I've installed a few windows in my days. If you get them and think you might need a hand, I'll stop by and see what we can do. No charge, I owe ya for the bike.

Russ Jerome
09-14-2009, 08:40 AM
open the window partway and measure from the top of the window (to the very top) to the top of the sill. Width is inner dimension side to side :thumbsup

ok smart@$$ I just woke up :)

New install or old replacment was the question.
1- bundle of wood shim.
1- can of low expansion foam insulation.
3-1/2 to 4" screws.

jbiscuit
09-14-2009, 08:44 AM
ok smart@$$ I just woke up :)

:rolf

pOrk
09-14-2009, 08:52 AM
Haha. I am pretty sure all the windows are original to the house. I haven't looked at prices yet so I am not sure how many I can afford to replace, but I need to start somewhere so I thought I would start with the master bedroom windows and work my way around the house. Everything here is single pane, hoping to cash in on some of the energy rebate money during this process as well :) I am searching you tube for installation videos now

jbiscuit
09-14-2009, 09:05 AM
menards has nice Jeld Wen replacements....if they are on sale right now and a stock size they aren't too pricey. If you have to custom order them, they add up in a hurry. For reference, almost all mine in my house are 28 x 54s...stock size. Paid like $110 per window on sale. I had to custom order one for the kitchen and that one was 28 x 33 and that one was $180. The tax credit eligible ones are quite a bit more per...like $40 per window and what you are getting is a coating on the glass.

pOrk
09-14-2009, 09:10 AM
Whats the coating good for? I am assuming the windows you bought are all double pane? My windows are all good ( minus the fact they dont have screens ) reason for replacement is obviously to save on enegry costs this winter and prevent drafting. I can tell this house isn't sealed up all that tight and I am pretty sure its mostly the windows.

I am going to try the Habitat for humanity store too and see what they have, I hear its cheap there and they have decent stuff once and awhile.

jbiscuit
09-14-2009, 09:13 AM
I would assume extra energy retention? No too sure. The guy at Menards in fact didn't think it was worth it. HOBO on highway 100 also to get the 100% silicone caulk. They have it for like $1 a tube. Buy a case of it. Normally like $3 a tube at Menards on sale.

pOrk
09-14-2009, 09:16 AM
^ I love hobo, thats where I got all my ceiling fans and bathroom caulk. Thanks for the heads up

u_say_go
09-14-2009, 09:19 AM
these websites can explain it better than I can...check it out. http://www.efficientwindows.org/glazing_.cfm?id=6
http://www.onlinetips.org/low-e-argon

Pretty much any window you buy is going to be much better than what you have now. Proper installation is a huge factor in the efficiency of the window as well.

pOrk
09-14-2009, 09:27 AM
The windows I have now are the wood windows with the aluminum tracks that you push IN to remove the window. I am guessing there is no insulation behind there, hence why these are so drafty? Just guessing ofcourse. Seems as if this video shows the correct way to measure for windows:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtdZj9WKyi0&NR=1

I found a few videos, but others have the people measureing them adding an inch for sheet rock and blah blah when I don't have sheetrock up to the windows, just wood.

u_say_go
09-14-2009, 09:37 AM
that guy is right on. one thing you should double check when buying the windows is the ACTUAL dimensions. Some manufacturers will post a size of 30x40 when the window is actually 29 3/4 x 39 3/4. This is commonly known as a "1/4 inch cutback" to allow for insulation. Take a tape measure with you when you check them out.

take a picture of the inside and outside of one of the windows you're replacing. Curious to see what you're working with now.

jbiscuit
09-14-2009, 09:42 AM
Pretty much any window you buy is going to be much better than what you have now. Proper installation is a huge factor in the efficiency of the window as well.

+1 If it were me, I'd save on the cost NOW and opt out of the extra coating on the glass to have money for other projects. Paying 30% more per window now is money you might need/want to use for other improvements. A good quality replacement window will be plenty nice. Then start looking at deals on furnaces to to really get the most energy savings each month this winter. West Allis Heating & Air had some great deals running. Awesomears can probably hook u up also. Tax credit eligible also on the super high efficient models tho $$$

pOrk
09-14-2009, 10:09 AM
Alright after looking at my windows, I have aluminum sash windows I believe ( aluminum tracks ) where the ones he is measuring are wood. Does this make a difference?

pOrk
09-14-2009, 10:31 AM
Upstairs Windows by my measurements, do these sound like somewhat common sizes?

3 Master bedroom windows 35 1/4 x 53 1/2
2 Dining room windows 31 1/4 x 50
1 Over sink kitchen window 33 1/4 x 37 1/2
1 Bathroom window 27 x 53 1/4
4 Office and Spare Bedroom Windows 31 1/4 x 53 1/2

5 Basement Windows are all 32 x 15 1/2

Windows upstairs all look like these, various sizes:

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/up1.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/up2.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/up3.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/up4.jpg

Have 5 windows in basement, 4 of which I want to replace ( 1 is just a window to a crawl space ). Those are all the same size and look like this:

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/basement1.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/basement2.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/basement3.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r87/thegreenpOrk/New%20House/Window%20Project/basement4.jpg

CATNHAT
09-14-2009, 09:35 PM
Whats the coating good for? I am assuming the windows you bought are all double pane? My windows are all good ( minus the fact they dont have screens ) reason for replacement is obviously to save on enegry costs this winter and prevent drafting. I can tell this house isn't sealed up all that tight and I am pretty sure its mostly the windows.

I am going to try the Habitat for humanity store too and see what they have, I hear its cheap there and they have decent stuff once and awhile.

The coating is Low "E" coating and is an energy efficient film that is applied the the exterior of the window. If you look at the exterior pane of glass with polarized glasses on and they appear to have a purple haze than they have the low e glazing.

I toured the Pella window plant in Pella Iowa and I had to look at 2 windows through an infrared camera. The windows without the glazing were both hotter and colder under both scenarios than with. Also helps to diminish UVA rays.

Also, be very aware of the U-Value of the window you are cosidering. The lower the U value, the more energy efficient the window will be. .32 is good and .29 is better.

I know someone that can get you a proposal for removal, supply and install of all new windows if you are interested.

PM me if you want me to come over again, and have some beer this time.
:thumbsup

pOrk
09-15-2009, 09:33 AM
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xkk/R-100627468/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Figure 2 of these for finished part of basement, and glass block for the unfinished part of basement?

jbiscuit
09-15-2009, 09:37 AM
or just do all glass block lol Security Glass Block on Greenfield did mine. Did a great job. about $160 each installed.

TheRX7Project
09-15-2009, 09:38 AM
Sorry pOrk, I talked to my buddy and he's going out of town for the next couple weeks.

pOrk
09-15-2009, 09:40 AM
or just do all glass block lol Security Glass Block on Greenfield did mine. Did a great job. about $160 each installed.

I want 2 to be full open, and I can get glass block with small windows built in from Menards for 80 bucks that I was thinking about using on the other 2 windows.

jbiscuit
09-15-2009, 10:10 AM
^ I wasn't 100% sure how to replace glass block windows so I let the pros do mine. They had to chip away are area put into the foundation to hold the original wood windows in and then mortared the new ones in place. I thought that was money well spent to let them do it. Just FYI