What color for the calipers?

[WanabFast]

Sorry I don't have a pic of the car, I'll get one tonight. My TA is the dark forest green color with a small gold pinstripe. My original thoughts were red but a friends' brother has a camaro with the same color and said the red doesn't look good. He suggested the same gold color to match the pinstripe. Any thoughts?

[BAD LS1]

bright silver!!:rockwoot:

[WanabFast]

Originally posted by BADDLS1SS
bright silver!!:rockwoot:

Heck I might as well just get them chrome dipped then!:bling

[GRNDNL]

Polish them so they look chromed.......:bling Looks hot with the blue neon in the wheel wells.....

[BAD LS1]

Gold i think would to GB packer like IMO..

The silver color would look good and clean. just like stock...

red or gold might to be abbrasive of a contrast....

[WanabFast]

Looks like I might go with the black then.

[GRNDNL]

Hey, I like black, then put some V-Tech decals on them....:rockwoot:

[WanabFast]

the bright silver looks like it might be it.

[Max 93]

mine are silver ( cast aluminum ), I think black would look good too. I don't think red would look good on a green car, very Christmas like.

[Silver350]

I would just paint them black.

[BadAzzGTA89]

Sliver would be cool or medium to dark gray!!

[95 TA - The Beast]

They are brakes, they dust, so black would be my vote...

I put red Z06 calipers on the Beast.. and painted the rears to match... PITA to keep clean... But then so are the wheels...

When I redo the brakes on the white car I am doing them in black...

[GHOSST]

Candy paint the suckas :goof, flippin silver/green/pink/blue.. j/k. I'd go with the black. :headbang

[PB86MCSS]

Body color would be a solid choice, IMO. Black is a safe bet. I painted my SS's red and took a picture but decided against it. Aluminum/silver is a good choice too but like mentioned, they will get dirty very quick.

[WanabFast]

Hey if I go with the ZO6 calipers I might as well get the rotors or drilled/slotted rotors too. stopping power rocks. :rockwoot: :3gears:

[SMS 1]

IMO the biggest reason that drilled/slotted systems usually provide more "stopping power" is because they are larger in diameter and use better calipers. If you use slotted/drilled rotors in stock dimesions with stock calipers the only real advantage is less heat and brake fade (and possibly an ounce or two less rotating mass ;) ) Plus the pads usually wear out much faster. And drilled rotors I have heard often are prone to cracking with street use;)

p.s.- I have a dark teal metallic GP and had the caliper brackets painted aluminum, and the calipers red- didn't look tooo bad. Alittle obnoxious maybe but not total ghetto either:goof

Oh, and they were/are a total BIOTCH to keep clean.

[95 TA - The Beast]

I will agree here, in that drilled rotors WILL crack, not IF, but WHEN...

Which means they will warp and you run the risk of rotor failure if you do not replace them when they crack...

Slotted rotors also don't do much besides helping wear out the pads and rotors faster... On the street that is... In other words if you are racing the slotted rotors will give you a slightly shorter stopping distance at the cost of pad and rotor wear (and the cost of the expensive slotted rotors to begin with)...

Drilled rotors only show an advantage on road courses (such as road america), where the constant heat and application and resulting stopping power more that justifys the added expense and constant replacement of those rotors... But then again imagine how much use you'll get out of them on a road course only vehicle compared to a street driven vehicle... And besides hard-core road course racers have no issue replacing rotors and brake pads PER EVENT if they are serious enough...

So yes, for street driven vehicles stick with really good pads, make sure you know the compounds characteristics (as in some brake very well, but only after being heated up properly but also severly eat away at the rotors), with a REALLY good one being the Hawk HPS pads, they dust but stop VERY well on the street and are agressive on the rotors, but not nearly as bad as thier + pads or race pads are... And then stick with regular good steel rotors (yes the steel composition can and most times DOES make a difference on how much rotors warp, so try to stay away from el-cheapo chinese steeel rotors) and only buy the slotted ones IF you can justify the slight added braking power vs the, usually, execessive cost increase...

Just for reference, I have already cracked GM factory Z06 rotors, and we are talking 1.25" thick, 13.1" in diameter directionally vaned rotors, and it cracked from the outside right down to the hub... So ANY kind of rotor can crack, but that is why the drilled varients (and to a lesser degree the slotted) are already weakening the solidity of the surface...

[Syclone0044]

Where are you getting your "good steel rotors"? I hope it's not GM's insane pricing.