rear drum brake help/question???

[1siksrt]

ok so i have done brakes before and always just hit the rear drum with a hammer to break it loose and it would slide off. For some reason my girlfriends mazda this is not the case. How do i get it off???

PS. never take your car to farm and fleet, last time she had her tire work done there and as you can see i snapped two studs using a tire iron:fire

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x149/Srtownedu/001.jpg

[jbiscuit]

it just rusted to the hub...PB Blaster in around the stud and let it sit for a bit. Then whack it.

[Yooformula]

I sprayed pb blaster on the backside and was tugging on the ebrake cable to loosen it up and kept trying to rotate it in between using a 4lb sledge to lightly (lol)tap on it.

[-stew-]

F&F had nothing to with those studs snapping. You using a breaker bar prolly had more to do with it. An impact uses rotational IMPACTS to break the bond of rust where the threads of the nut contact the threads of the stud. With those threads rusted together, you put a breaker bar on it and the torque is transfered through the nut into the stud, snapping it.


Four tips to help remove the drum: Heat, PB Blaster, those threaded holes are there for a reason, and get a bigger hammer and swing it like you got a pair.

[1siksrt]

F&F had nothing to with those studs snapping. You using a breaker bar prolly had more to do with it. An impact uses rotational IMPACTS to break the bond of rust where the threads of the nut contact the threads of the stud. With those threads rusted together, you put a breaker bar on it and the torque is transfered through the nut into the stud, snapping it.


Four tips to help remove the drum: Heat, PB Blaster, those threaded holes are there for a reason, and get a bigger hammer and swing it like you got a pair.

thanks for the advice... I dunno i did her front brakes last year no problem and had no issues getting the fronts off.. It was not even a breaker bar, it was a old skool tire iron... either way it felt like they did not use torque sticks and gunned the back ones on a 300ft-lbs..

[1siksrt]

ok well after whacking the shit out of it and pb blasting it!!!! It finally came off... NOw how the hell do i get the old studs out so i can put new studs in it...:rolf

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x149/Srtownedu/004.jpg

[1siksrt]

nevermind i got them out and found a gap big enough to get the new ones in....

thanks for all your help guys, now i need to change the rear shoes and fix her check engine lights :(

[1siksrt]

what a vacation LOL

[-stew-]

thanks for the advice... I dunno i did her front brakes no problem and had no issues getting the fronts off.. It was not even a breaker bar, it was a old skool tire iron... either way it felt like they did not use torque sticks and gunned the back ones on a 300ft-lbs..


Reefing the lugnuts down to 300 ft-lbs wont cause the studs to break when you remove the nuts months (or years) later. Over torquing will fuck the threads up, and too much torque can snap the stud installing the nut. OK, thought about it, there is a very slim chance over torquing caused them to snap. But it's a slim enough chance that I'd bet its not the reason why.

Not directed at you, but in general: The whole reason I poasted in this thread is I get pissed when people who don't know what they are talking about just start talking shit about some repair shop because thing X went wrong and Shop Z was the last place to touch it; when in reality it's just a case of "shit happens," or it's unrelated.

[1BadBytch]

swing it like you got a pair.

x2:)

[1siksrt]

Reefing the lugnuts down to 300 ft-lbs wont cause the studs to break when you remove the nuts months (or years) later. Over torquing will fuck the threads up, and too much torque can snap the stud installing the nut. OK, thought about it, there is a very slim chance over torquing caused them to snap. But it's a slim enough chance that I'd bet its not the reason why.

Not directed at you, but in general: The whole reason I poasted in this thread is I get pissed when people who don't know what they are talking about just start talking shit about some repair shop because thing X went wrong and Shop Z was the last place to touch it; when in reality it's just a case of "shit happens," or it's unrelated.

its cool man, I dont claim to be a expert or anything.. I have a little knowledge from working at a tires plus, but not that much that i would claim to know it all you could very well be right... must be my huge GUNS:thumbsup

[1siksrt]

x2:)

Im working with limited tools here at the gf's!!!!:rolf if you saw the hammer i was using you would :rolf

[WickedSix]

overtorquing a lugnut can and will yield the stud and cause a failure. Depending upon the look of where it broke you can determine what exactly happened..if part of the face that sheared is rusted it was a cycling failure, if it sheared, the face is clean (no jagged parts). While overtorqued the stud is under stress it wasn't designed for over time this will elongate the stud and create a "neck" in the material. In the neck stresses are far greater than normal when you go to remove the lugnut and "snap" you shear a stud.

[SSDude]

overtorquing a lugnut can and will yield the stud and cause a failure. Depending upon the look of where it broke you can determine what exactly happened..if part of the face that sheared is rusted it was a cycling failure, if it sheared, the face is clean (no jagged parts). While overtorqued the stud is under stress it wasn't designed for over time this will elongate the stud and create a "neck" in the material. In the neck stresses are far greater than normal when you go to remove the lugnut and "snap" you shear a stud.

X2:thumbsup

[Reverend Cooper]

Looks overtorqued too me,jmo

[Car Guy]

My $$$ is on too much torque, still can't believe some shops don't use torque sticks......:chair:

[TURTLE]

we don't use torque sticks....



we use a torque wrench!