Ammo....sigh

[BigSnailBuick]

So me and my old man went to gander a few days ago and they had one box of ammo left for our ar-15's. $100 for 200 rounds is a pretty good deal. Anywho we should start posting places we see ammo at because we look for it all the time and can never find any. So by all means people if you see boxes of .223 ammo at any of the places you go post up the location!!!!:headbang By the way make sure its brass cause as im sure you all know shooting that other stuff is just blah garbage.

[Rocket Power]

I've never shot brass out of the AK and doubt I ever will. After all it's an AK:rolf

I saw a couple 100 rd boxes of 40 S&W at burlington walmart Sunday. No 9mm though:fire
Haven't been anywhere else lately

[Rocket Power]

Oh and Dunhams was over $7/box for wolf x39:wow

[Moparjim]

The gun shows have finally had some, significantly cheaper than that.

Cheap what I would call "shooting quality" (non corrosive, etc. - cheap brand name but decent enough that it will shoot fine and not ruin your gun) can be had in .223 for around $250-$300 a case of 1000 or so depending on the weekend, brand, and type of ammo. Some people poo-poo the stuff like Wolf or Big Bear or whatever but I have shot plenty of it and never had an issue. I buy this stuff regularly for my "fun" ammo and just keep around 500 or so of "good" stuff around for actual use if I ever need it. The Wolf is even Teflon coated now rather than lubed I think. Either way, if your doing what I do - going to the range making holes in a paper target, shooting a couple hundred rounds, then going home and CLEANING your gun - this stuff shoots just as good as much more expensive ammo. Maybe if you tried to shoot a thousand rounds of it without cleaning it would be a problem, or maybe if you were competitive shooting where every bit of accuracy counted or what not it would be a problem, but I find it just fine for fun range shooting and get just as good a groups with it since I am by no means a highly skilled shooter.

I got a few hundred SS109 even a couple shows ago for about $0.60 a round which I thought was pretty good.

[SSLEVO]

I'm building an AR pretty soon, what is the "good" ammo that you are using and where can you get the "cheap" stuff other than gun shows?

As you can see i'm new to the AR world, do you shoot the 5.56x45 or .223? I see you can shoot either in most AR setups but not the 5.56x45 in most .223 setups.

[That_Guy]

Oh and Dunhams was over $7/box for wolf x39:wow
if you promise to not go and snatch it all up jims sporting heaven in oconomowoc has it for 4.50 a box..

cheaper then dirt has grizzly 9mm makarov fo 12 bux a box jhp.. of course i ive got 1,000 rounds of bulk jhp ammo coming to my house within the next couple days that id part with for you makarov guys.

cabelas had millitary grade buckshot for 5 dollars a box of 5 but they also have cheaper non millitary for 3 bucks a box for double 0.

they also have rather cheap .233 or 5.56 in bulk ammo.

[That_Guy]

I'm building an AR pretty soon, what is the "good" ammo that you are using and where can you get the "cheap" stuff other than gun shows?

As you can see i'm new to the AR world, do you shoot the 5.56x45 or .223? I see you can shoot either in most AR setups but not the 5.56x45 in most .223 setups.

the best advise i can give u is get an upper reciever that shoots 5.56 becaus 5.556 will shoot both .223. if you get one in .223 it will NOT SHOOT 5.556 THERE IS A DIFFERENCE ..

LINK..

straight from the site;
223 Rem VS 5.56mm

There are a lot of questions about these two cartridges. Many people think they are identical - merely different designations for commercial and military. The truth is that, although somewhat similar, they are not the same and you should know the differences before buying either cartridge.

* The cartridge casings for both calibers have basically the same length and exterior dimensions.
* The 5.56 round, loaded to Military Specification, typically has higher velocity and chamber pressure than the .223 Rem.
* The 5.56 cartridge case may have thicker walls, and a thicker head, for extra strength. This better contains the higher chamber pressure. However, a thicker case reduces powder capacity, which is of concern to the reloader.
* The 5.56mm and .223 Rem chambers are nearly identical. The difference is in the "Leade". Leade is defined as the portion of the barrel directly in front of the chamber where the rifling has been conically removed to allow room for the seated bullet. It is also more commonly known as the throat. Leade in a .223 Rem chamber is usually .085". In a 5.56mm chamber the leade is typically .162", or almost twice as much as in the 223 Rem chamber.
* You can fire .223 Rem cartridges in 5.56mm chambers with this longer leade, but you will generally have a slight loss in accuracy and velocity over firing the .223 round in the chamber with the shorter leade it was designed for.
* Problems may occur when firing the higher-pressure 5.56mm cartridge in a .223 chamber with its much shorter leade. It is generally known that shortening the leade can dramatically increase chamber pressure. In some cases, this higher pressure could result in primer pocket gas leaks, blown cartridge case heads and gun functioning issues.
* The 5.56mm military cartridge fired in a .223 Rem chamber is considered by SAAMI (Small Arm and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) to be an unsafe ammunition combination.



Before buying either of these two types of ammunition, always check your gun to find what caliber it is chambered for, then buy the appropriate ammunition. Most 5.56mm rounds made have full metal jacket bullets. Performance bullets - soft points, hollow points, Ballistic Silvertips, etc. - are loaded in .223 Rem cartridges. Firing a .223 Rem cartridge in a 5.56mm-chambered gun is safe and merely gives you slightly reduced velocity and accuracy. However we do not recommend, nor does SAAMI recommend, firing a 5.56mm cartridge in a gun chambered for the .223 Rem as the shorter leade can cause pressure-related problems.

hope this helpS

http://www.winchester.com/lawe.../newsview.aspx?storyid=11 (http://www.winchester.com/lawenforcement/news/newsview.aspx?storyid=11)

[SSLEVO]

Lol, that's pretty much what i read just before i posted my question, thanks though. I guess you did answer my question of the .223 having lower energy. Is the 5.56 ammo usually cheaper?

[Russ Jerome]

I'm building an AR pretty soon, what is the "good" ammo that you are using and where can you get the "cheap" stuff other than gun shows?



Remington white box 223 would be "cheaper" grade ammo that you could shoot regularly without causing your slide to stick (go to cock your AR and even tho it cycles the bold doesnt close with enough force to allow it to fire, just here a click when pin is released). I've had great groups shooting it this year, not as well in my bolt guns.

Wolf ammo will fire all day but you will need to clean your AR extremely well afterwords or expect a sticky breach. Past experience with my last AR keeps me from using it in my present model. Like Wolf ammo the generic military gray colored shell or other coated stuff is not the freind of an AR (AKs rule reliable shooting any crap ammo).

When its on sale I love Hornady ammo, solid or ballistic tip. Clean burning and very consistant groups out beyond 300yrds with a decent barrel.

When you get your AR done dont be surprised to get a couple early misfires, its an AR thing it will pass after a few rounds go thru the cycle.

Oh and that Fiochi stuff at Gander seams to burn clean, grouped pretty decent on a virgin gun unbroken in yet.

[Russ Jerome]

Is the 5.56 ammo usually cheaper?

Usualy, also usualy coated with parafin or something to help gew up your gun. Build a 5.56 gun to beat around and clean it with $1.99 brake clean, build a decent barrel .223 for your hunting/sniper gun and shoot good ammo.

[Rocket Power]

Had to go to Dunhams again today for the kid. 7.99/box for wolf X39. :wow

[That_Guy]

i would get one in a 5.56 so you can shoot both .223 and 5.56 so your not limited on your ammo selection

[USMARINE1108]

I know no one wants to hear this, but start reloading. Components are becoming available again. With components I've purchased in the past few months, I'm up to 13cents/round for 55gr plinking ammo, and 25 cents for quality 52gr or 69gr HPBT rounds. If you ask me, 50 cents is too much to pay for .223 plinking ammo.

[SSLEVO]

I know no one wants to hear this, but start reloading. Components are becoming available again. With components I've purchased in the past few months, I'm up to 13cents/round for 55gr plinking ammo, and 25 cents for quality 52gr or 69gr HPBT rounds. If you ask me, 50 cents is too much to pay for .223 plinking ammo.

Nice, what kind of initial investment are we talking about to reload centerfire rounds?

[SSDude]

the best advise i can give u is get an upper reciever that shoots 5.56 becaus 5.556 will shoot both .223. if you get one in .223 it will NOT SHOOT 5.556 THERE IS A DIFFERENCE ..

LINK..

straight from the site;
223 Rem VS 5.56mm

There are a lot of questions about these two cartridges. Many people think they are identical - merely different designations for commercial and military. The truth is that, although somewhat similar, they are not the same and you should know the differences before buying either cartridge.

* The cartridge casings for both calibers have basically the same length and exterior dimensions.
* The 5.56 round, loaded to Military Specification, typically has higher velocity and chamber pressure than the .223 Rem.
* The 5.56 cartridge case may have thicker walls, and a thicker head, for extra strength. This better contains the higher chamber pressure. However, a thicker case reduces powder capacity, which is of concern to the reloader.
* The 5.56mm and .223 Rem chambers are nearly identical. The difference is in the "Leade". Leade is defined as the portion of the barrel directly in front of the chamber where the rifling has been conically removed to allow room for the seated bullet. It is also more commonly known as the throat. Leade in a .223 Rem chamber is usually .085". In a 5.56mm chamber the leade is typically .162", or almost twice as much as in the 223 Rem chamber.
* You can fire .223 Rem cartridges in 5.56mm chambers with this longer leade, but you will generally have a slight loss in accuracy and velocity over firing the .223 round in the chamber with the shorter leade it was designed for.
* Problems may occur when firing the higher-pressure 5.56mm cartridge in a .223 chamber with its much shorter leade. It is generally known that shortening the leade can dramatically increase chamber pressure. In some cases, this higher pressure could result in primer pocket gas leaks, blown cartridge case heads and gun functioning issues.
* The 5.56mm military cartridge fired in a .223 Rem chamber is considered by SAAMI (Small Arm and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) to be an unsafe ammunition combination.



Before buying either of these two types of ammunition, always check your gun to find what caliber it is chambered for, then buy the appropriate ammunition. Most 5.56mm rounds made have full metal jacket bullets. Performance bullets - soft points, hollow points, Ballistic Silvertips, etc. - are loaded in .223 Rem cartridges. Firing a .223 Rem cartridge in a 5.56mm-chambered gun is safe and merely gives you slightly reduced velocity and accuracy. However we do not recommend, nor does SAAMI recommend, firing a 5.56mm cartridge in a gun chambered for the .223 Rem as the shorter leade can cause pressure-related problems.

hope this helpS

http://www.winchester.com/lawe.../newsview.aspx?storyid=11 (http://www.winchester.com/lawenforcement/news/newsview.aspx?storyid=11)

So if your building an AR it's really about what your barrels chambered for and not about the upper receiver?

[SSLEVO]

So if your building an AR it's really about what your barrels chambered for and not about the upper receiver?

Yea, pretty much, it will most likely be 5.56 which will also shoot .223. If it is chambered in .223 do not shoot 5.56.

[That_Guy]

Yea, pretty much, it will most likely be 5.56 which will also shoot .223. If it is chambered in .223 do not shoot 5.56.

correct

[USMARINE1108]

Nice, what kind of initial investment are we talking about to reload centerfire rounds?

Lots of people like the Rock Crusher Supreme kit, all you need to add is dies. If you want to get into it, you need to start with books (reloading manuals). Lots of books. Start with the ABCs of reloading. A good reloading kit can be set up for a few hundred dollars, plus components. If you like to "tinker" and can spare the time to do it, it can turn into a hobby by itself. Your first batch of ammo, if done correctly, will be more accurate then any factory stuff you have fired.

Powder charge: .06
FMJ 55gr bullet: .07
Primer: .02
Brass: Free (you've been saving it, right?!)

That's 15 cents for quality .223 plinking ammo. $150/k is much better then current prices on loaded ammo, not to mention the satisfaction and "cool" factor. The reloading setup pays for itself in no time. Buying components in bulk saves money too.

[MurphysLaw88GT]

Reduce, reuse, recycle. Now you can tell the hippies that you are going "green"

[USMARINE1108]

Reduce, reuse, recycle. Now you can tell the hippies that you are going "green"

Well, I guess that's one way to put it! :thumbsup

[HITMAN]

Lots of people like the Rock Crusher Supreme kit, all you need to add is dies. If you want to get into it, you need to start with books (reloading manuals). Lots of books. Start with the ABCs of reloading. A good reloading kit can be set up for a few hundred dollars, plus components. If you like to "tinker" and can spare the time to do it, it can turn into a hobby by itself. Your first batch of ammo, if done correctly, will be more accurate then any factory stuff you have fired.

Powder charge: .06
FMJ 55gr bullet: .07
Primer: .02
Brass: Free (you've been saving it, right?!)

That's 15 cents for quality .223 plinking ammo. $150/k is much better then current prices on loaded ammo, not to mention the satisfaction and "cool" factor. The reloading setup pays for itself in no time. Buying components in bulk saves money too.

Just out of curiosity, where are you sourcing your primers from? From what I've heard, primers are what's hard to get right now, not any of the other components.

[USMARINE1108]

Just out of curiosity, where are you sourcing your primers from? From what I've heard, primers are what's hard to get right now, not any of the other components.

I've still got a bunch saved up, but I do have some on order also. I've been told that CCI and Fed's have been showing up at stores in SE WI lately. Two weeks ago while in Alaska I was able to find plenty at normal prices in just about every store I went to in the Fairbanks area. It seems that the primer gods are beginning to smile on us once again. I guess we'll see. I've also read that by using the "email me when this item becomes available" feature on most places, people are getting primers if they jump on them as most sellers are receiving shippments.