dsm guys... need some help

[Z Speed]

Well my brother sold me his elcipse... apparently from the guy he bought the car from had the motor and trans rebuild. the issue its having is no matter what we do it doesnt rev past 3 grand. so far we have dont numerous things.

we have replaced plugs, wires, and coil packs with no change....
we also changed the maf and the transistor....
also disconnected the downpipe thinking it was clogged

basically all it does is we can floor it and it goes to 3 grand and acts like its in 2 step or something.... and u cant put much load on the motor cause it bogs and dies.... im able to move it with flooring and riding the clutch but as soon as the clutch is pressed in and the gas is released it dies and u can smell some gas.

the car came with a extra maf so I cleaned up with maf cleaner and put that in and there was no change so i cleaned the other one with no change so i tried running the car without the maf plugged in at all... well it idled the same but when i reved it the limiter issue i was having wasnt there as like it was with the maf pluged in....

so under normal assumption im gonna say the maf is bad but i will wait to see what someone sez on here. next i would like to know is should i try another maf or should i try upgrading it to something.

I just want some info from someone that knows more about these cars since this is new grounds for me.

[srt4eh]

sounds like what the "neon" world calls limp mode. Car throws a code and won't allow it to rev past 3k. Are you throwing any engine codes?

[twicks69]

I did send you back a PM. As well, check your TPS sensor (throttle position sensor -- black sensor on throttle body attached to the shaft with rectangular plug. Also, coolant temperatures can cause this issue. If you are running over 206-degrees, the ECU starts to pull timing. Install a new 180-degree thermostat and bleed the coolant system, disconnect and reconnect the battery -- reset ECU -- and check for boost leaks. Invest in a boost leak tester.

Here is a high quality boost leak tester that is cheap and works great!

http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html

Good luck,

[cyclone70]

Did he just rebuild the engine? Could the cam timing be off

[Z Speed]

no the engine was rebuild last year then the guy that owned it before my brother took it out for a rally race and it ran fine then he stored it... it got test drove 3 times and after the 3rd time it started doing this.

it doesnt throw cel's unless i unplug something

[Z Speed]

well i did a once over on the car today... took the computer out and made sure all the connections were tight, checked to make sure the wires werent tampered with, found the wastegate source line was cut a little bit so i replaced that, tightened up all the intercooler hoses, and i disconnected the battery to reset the computer and now it free revs fine but when i drive it, it revs fine till about 4 grand then sputters and bog like im hitting a limiter so im guessing its got a boost leak like twicks said... im going to order that boost leak tester and then go from there... I will post any findings

[wikked]

What did you gap the plugs at? What plugs did you buy?

[Z Speed]

not sure whats in there right now... I will have to check but i think there just standard plugs

[wikked]

Well that's good, you don't want iridium's or anything like that.
NGK BPR6ES or BPR7ES are what 99% use, gapped around .28 for stock/mildly modded.

I had a very similar issue, and my plugs were somehow gapped .34-.36
Runs like a raped ape after re-gapping.

[Z Speed]

well I pulled the computer out and for the most part it looks good inside. I do see a very little bit of acid leak right around the capacitors so im going to wave a flag at that for now. I also notice yesterday I adjusted the idle of the car cause it was running low (500-600rpm) and now its back down to that again. I also found this random plug chillin down by the computer so im not sure what it is exactly but from the looks of it im assuming its for the radio tho.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a320/hewmack/062309_050600.jpg

[twicks69]

looks like the radio antenna.

As for your idle and not staying where you want it, that can be due to a couple things. The BISS screw (Base Idle Set Screw) on the throttle body -- the screw you would adjust the idle with -- has an o-ring on it that has a tendency to crack and deteriorate over time. The BISS screw, O-ring and cap plug are normal replacement parts if worn or damaged. Otherwise, if the screw is still good, pull the screw out and replace the o-ring only. If you have a metric o-ring assortment kit, it is very simple. If you do not, go over to Harbor Freight Tools, and buy a 250-pack for $4.99. Once you reinstall the screw and adjust your idle -- use a bit of Permatex Ultra Black RTV silicone and "plug" the BISS screw hole. This will ensure that there will not be an additional boost leak after installing the new o-ring on the BISS screw, as well as ensuring that your screw will not back out and run away on you.

As well, if you have other boost leaks, that will cause your idle to be crappy. You will still need to fix all of them. Be sure to inspect the intercooler core and end tanks and inlet pipes for pinholes also. I have seen them completely corrode the endtanks and inlet pipes many many times due to Wisconsin road salt, causing boost nightmares. Check all the hose connections between the turbo and the throttle body, as well as the vacuum lines attached to the intake manifold, including your PCV valve, and brake booster vacuum line.

Good luck,

[Z Speed]

looks like the radio antenna.

As for your idle and not staying where you want it, that can be due to a couple things. The BISS screw (Base Idle Set Screw) on the throttle body -- the screw you would adjust the idle with -- has an o-ring on it that has a tendency to crack and deteriorate over time. The BISS screw, O-ring and cap plug are normal replacement parts if worn or damaged. Otherwise, if the screw is still good, pull the screw out and replace the o-ring only. If you have a metric o-ring assortment kit, it is very simple. If you do not, go over to Harbor Freight Tools, and buy a 250-pack for $4.99. Once you reinstall the screw and adjust your idle -- use a bit of Permatex Ultra Black RTV silicone and "plug" the BISS screw hole. This will ensure that there will not be an additional boost leak after installing the new o-ring on the BISS screw, as well as ensuring that your screw will not back out and run away on you.

As well, if you have other boost leaks, that will cause your idle to be crappy. You will still need to fix all of them. Be sure to inspect the intercooler core and end tanks and inlet pipes for pinholes also. I have seen them completely corrode the endtanks and inlet pipes many many times due to Wisconsin road salt, causing boost nightmares. Check all the hose connections between the turbo and the throttle body, as well as the vacuum lines attached to the intake manifold, including your PCV valve, and brake booster vacuum line.

Good luck,

alright cool... I ordered up that boost leak tester you recommended me to get and im just searching for a coupler for it to attach to the turbo. once i get that stuff I will be able to do the leak test. hopefully once i get that i can pin point the issue. Ironically the guy my brother bought this car from I believe knows you. He gave my brother your number to get ahold of you cause he said ur very knowledge able and would probably help but said ur in chicago working.... not sure if thats you but I thought it was a good possibility

[Z Speed]

any recommendations to where to have the computer sent out? my brother brought a boost leak tester he had laying around and it checked out fine. I found this on ebay but I dont wanna send it out and the computer gets all hacked up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120406129517&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_3737wt_1172

[twicks69]

alright cool... I ordered up that boost leak tester you recommended me to get and im just searching for a coupler for it to attach to the turbo. once i get that stuff I will be able to do the leak test. hopefully once i get that i can pin point the issue. Ironically the guy my brother bought this car from I believe knows you. He gave my brother your number to get ahold of you cause he said ur very knowledge able and would probably help but said ur in chicago working.... not sure if thats you but I thought it was a good possibility

:rolf :rolf Yeah, thats me.

The ECU should be sent to KeyDiver. http://www.dsmchips.com/

He can take care of the capacitor issue with no problems.

[LIL EVO]

I can do the ECU for $40. Local, just south of Oak Creek on the lake.

[Z Speed]

I can do the ECU for $40. Local, just south of Oak Creek on the lake.
really thats rather sweet... i live in cudahy... I will pm u my cell number so we can arrange something

[Z Speed]

:rolf :rolf Yeah, thats me.

The ECU should be sent to KeyDiver. http://www.dsmchips.com/

He can take care of the capacitor issue with no problems.

I emailed them and they told me they dont do repairs unless I purchase chip upgrades

[Z Speed]

:rolf :rolf Yeah, thats me.

The ECU should be sent to KeyDiver. http://www.dsmchips.com/

He can take care of the capacitor issue with no problems.

I emailed them and they told me they dont do repairs unless I purchase chip upgrades

[Z Speed]

thanks for all your help lil evo... car runs great now

[twicks69]

Good to hear!

[Z Speed]

now I just need money lol