Royal Purple

[Korndogg]

http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article001398592.cfm?x=bfmW6PM,bbb6mDbC

[HY35F2T]

oh damn.

[Holeshot]

Ill still use it.

[Voodoo Chick]

I really like Valvoline race oil.

[BigBadGTA]

Mobile 1 full synthetic baby.

[Holeshot]

Mobile 1 full synthetic baby.

I use that to.

[That_Guy]

rp is crap.. ill never use it again mobile 1 all the way.. ive never burned oil before.. i burned a quart of it in 3k miles... ive never burned oil again when i switched back to mobile one.

[Voodoo Chick]

I never had a problem with Royal Purple, but the price is kinda hard to handle.

[Holeshot]

I never had a problem with Royal Purple, but the price is kinda hard to handle.

Thats cuz you never bought it from me :)

[Yeehaw]

Thats cuz you never bought it from me :)

dan how much is it by you guys? its like 9 a quart by us, i run mobil 1 also but then again have never heard anything bad about royal purple two of my customers who do vintage racing told me they got better track times after switching to RP

[Holeshot]

dan how much is it by you guys? its like 9 a quart by us, i run mobil 1 also but then again have never heard anything bad about royal purple two of my customers who do vintage racing told me they got better track times after switching to RP

BCM members get better pricing then over the counter. :headbang

[Voodoo Chick]

Thats cuz you never bought it from me :)

Well....next time I'll buy it from you!! :)

[ThatWhiteCivic]

Brad Penn FTW

[JC70SS]

Royal Purple= JUNK

Read up on LS1tech, The surge on Ls1.com or bobistheoilguy.com They all say it is crap from labtests and also Mobile 1 has been downgraded too from a level 4 synthtic to level 3. Overpriced oil to say the least(mobile 1).

I am running German Castrol 0w40 in the LS1 and next will try Amsoil signature 0W40.

Amsoil
Redline
German Castrol on found at Autozone on occasion
Penzoil Platinum.....my choices.

[jbiscuit]

RP has been junk for years. I'm actually surprised they are still around. True snake oil.

[Voodoo Chick]

Anyone here ever try the zinc additives? I haven't yet, and was wondering if maybe I should.

[Holeshot]

Zinc protects the lobes on the cam.

[Plum Crazy]

5qt jug of mobil 1 is 26 bucks at the zone, i run that in the Hemi with an Amsoil filter, In the monte SS, i run Amsoil.

[Smokey1226]

Brad Penn FTW
Truf! thats all mine will see, as well as MANY MANY other's!

[1320PNY]

Brad Penn FTW

:rolf

I work for an OIL company with a full-blown test lab.

1.) The best oil is the oil that works and costs the least to achieve it.
2.) 4.6L Mustangs (3V) are fine with Factory MotorCraft (Chevron) fill.
3.) Pennsylvania crude oils :durr.
4.) I have always tested my oil EVERY TIME I change it.
5.) Mobil 1 15,000K is good.

No oils should be run more than 5K miles in WI due to the silica content of our environment. Our sandy shore and our dusty winds help our vehicles absorb contaminants that reach suspect levels by 5K miles. The oil may still have suitable TBN (Total Base reserve Number), additive, and life to continue providing protection, but the contaminants will be circulating an the combination of contaminants and shear forces of an engine can kill life.

I'm full of all sorts of "useless" info on oils, oil analysis, thermal oxidation, cracked hydrocarbon vs. synthetic microstructure, shear degredation, etc. If you really want to know something, PM me and we'll do lunch.

[Holeshot]

^^^ So can you do oil analysis on used / drain oil?

[Smokey1226]

:rolf

I work for an OIL company with a full-blown test lab.
3.) Pennsylvania crude oils :durr.

Not that im doubting you as i really don't know much about oils, but if the oil guru's claim that it is good stuff, and it costs only $4/quart and is semi synthetic + Zinc....i dont see how you can go wrong?

Ive seen from Brad Penn Posted to be around 1500PPM Content. Which is awesome!

[Voodoo Chick]

I think I'll go ahead and buy some of that zinc additive....

[British_Ben]

An interesting post I read on vwvortex a long time ago comparing Mobil 1 to Valvoline.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2115738

[SLOWC5]

Mobil 1 leaves that brown film on and inside an engine. If you've had one apart that uses Mobil you know what I'm talking about. After we rebuilt my engine I've switched to Castrol syn. and Do not have the brown film on everything.

[Rocket Power]

Supertech FTW:goof

[jon_we4]

I'm a firm believer that oil is oil, especially if changed regularly.

For some reason I used to be big in redline. RP was easy to get so I use it on the TBSS. I switched from Mobil 1 5w40 to Mobil 1 0w40 in the Duramax (I tend to push the limits on mileage in that truck). I'll probably stick with Mobil 1 on the Z06 because its what it came with from the factory. I'm not looking forward to trying to change the oil on that :( ZR1 sized dry sump + low ground clearance. Need to find a low ground clearance drive on to make that job easy.

[Z28Envy]

Supertech FTW:goof

I've read that supertech is repackaged mobil 1. I read that on ls1tech and believe they even tested it and found it was actually pretty good oil. I will try to find it.

http://www.rateitall.com/i-218610-wal-mart-super-tech-motor-oil.aspx

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/general-lsx-automobile-discussion/810782-interesting-read-about-supertech-oil-aka-walmart-oil.html

[1320PNY]

http://www.beauchampengineering.net/pdf/analysis8.pdf

OK, some more facts:

Yes, we can test drain oil. We have kits that you take about 3 oz of your drain oil and send it to the lab. They do a full analysis and e-mail you the results. Above is the results from day 1 on my Mustang.

Note: Zinc is only a good additive for pushrod engines pre-catalytic. This helps lubricate the valve/cams as someone stated above. Obviously roller rockers help too, but Zinc was taken out of oils when Overhead Cam technology took over. It also helps expedite the degredation of catalysts, so that's another reason they took it out.

As for the PA crudes, I got about 2500 miles out of the beloved Pennzoil before it went to shit. My TBN was gone and technically the acidic nature of the oil at that point was more detrimental than beneficial.

I don't care if you want to post up arguments, but if you want facts and to do your own research, PM me and I'll help you find out what's going on in your own engine.

One thing I can testify is that the "brown film" that you are seeing is varnish from thermal breakdown. The only way to "clean" that out with an oil is to have a solvent included in your oil. This can be easily done with a diesel oil in a gas engine. The issue is going to be eating the cats out of the car prematurely. I have pictures of a Lexus torn down where they switched to an oil with detergent additives. You can see the slinging of the "new" oil was cleaning the film off an area in the valve covers. The car had over 300K miles and the cams and rotating assembly were still within factory specifications for Lexus. I can't say the brown film is as bad as the solvent, so sometimes you aren't "fixing" anything by changing.

All that said, if you SELL oil (which I don't) and want to assist fellow BCM members, let's do some testing. I'll offer up (3) sample kits. (1) for 3oz of "virgin" oil (our control). (1) kit to test the oil drained at switchover. (1) kit to test the drained oil 3K later. This way we can take some "random" BCM vehicle and do an accurate test to see if the oil is beneficial to the car.

Any takers?

[Smokey1226]

^ Im interested in the test. Ill have some extra oil, with mine being a brand new motor that hasnt even fired yet i'd like to do some tests. Pushrod SBF, Roller Cam, ect

[79SS]

FUSION R30 ( 5W-30 SL/CF) Here.:headbang

[Corvette Jabo]

[QUOTE=1320PNY;526070
Note: Zinc is only a good additive for pushrod engines pre-catalytic. This helps lubricate the valve/cams as someone stated above. Obviously roller rockers help too, but Zinc was taken out of oils when Overhead Cam technology took over. It also helps expedite the degredation of catalysts, so that's another reason they took it out.

QUOTE]

I do run old pushrod engines. I have been running 20W50 conventional oil in my old Vetts. The one thing that I have noticed the past 2 years, when I go to change the oil in both cars in Spring I notice my oil looks kind of milky (but no foam in oil). I thought I had a bad head gasket because I run thin copper head gaskets, but I could not find any evidence of a bad head gasket. I spoke to Steve Johnson at AMS and he thought it was from condensation build up from sitting over the winter, makes sence to me (your thoughts?).
Regarding the Zink additive, who makes a quality additive and where can I get it from in the area. I have also heard that it is good to use during a flat tappet cam break-in, but I would like to start adding it every time I change the oil, I do not think it would hurt my engine.

[Prince Valiant]

Regarding the Zink additive, who makes a quality additive and where can I get it from in the area. I have also heard that it is good to use during a flat tappet cam break-in, but I would like to start adding it every time I change the oil, I do not think it would hurt my engine.What I do is I generally run engine oil for diesel engines, since they most have higher zinc content than oil's for regular engines. The importance of zinc, of course, is that it's a high pressure lube for metal on metal parts...zinc went down not directly due to the presence of roller cams though; more due to the need to make catalytic converters last a minimum of 150,000 miles, and the high zinc levels were found to be the culprit....reducing the levels were okay since most cars from the late 80's on began using roller cams.

Even today though, you'll see that engine oil for diesel's zinc contents are down compared to regular engine oils of a few decades though.

If you generally look for "racing oils", ones that are at most "SL" rated per API (SM is too low in the zinc content), you should be good. Add a can of STP for increased levels of ZDDP (zinc)....the blue bottle if you want to increase your viscosity, the red bottle if no. Another option is since they've restarted selling GM EOS, you could add half a bottle of that to the oil every oil change, which has PLENTY of zinc.

For the coronet, I generally don't worry about it...with the stock valve springs and small cam, I could get away with low zinc oils up to SL rated without adding a supplement. But, up the spring pressures and cam sizes, zinc becomes more of a necessity. In the valiant, I had a cam that's ramp made the XE and Voodoo series cams look puny...and running modern oils, I wiped 3 lobes within 100 miles.

For a period in early 2000's, all the muscle car guys were bitching about wiping cams in their new engines despite following proper break-in, using cam lube, etc. Many were experiencing failures within hundreds of miles (as I did)....even some older, well broken in engines were loosing cams. People were crying about cam quality, etc, etc, etc. It took a while before people caught on that it was a problem with the oils they were using, not so much the cams themselves. It took people a while to put 2 and 2 together....since then, I haven't had a problem.

SM ratings were originally said to be safe for ALL engines when it first started hitting the shelves, but this was later rescinded. Now SM is not recommended for use in cars with flat-tappet camshafts.

[1320PNY]

Sweet.

Now there's a guy on here with experience (Prince Valiant) and I found a taker on the testing(Smokey1226). So it will just be a couple weeks before we have hard BCM facts. :thumbsup

[JOHN 86GT]

Sweet.

Now there's a guy on here with experience (Prince Valiant) and I found a taker on the testing(Smokey1226). So it will just be a couple weeks before we have hard BCM facts. :thumbsup

What were the results?

[T-Bag]

Don't we already have this thread?

[Korndogg]

Don't we already have this thread?

well considering this thread is from April...yes lol

[T-Bag]

Lol yeah I just saw the dates....blackberry posting