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View Full Version : all you 302 guys that split blocks!!



70 cutlass 442
01-26-2009, 10:25 PM
Just wondering at what HP or ET range you split it open at??? ive seen guys go years in the 9.80s and faster with just a main girdle....

badass88gt
01-26-2009, 11:28 PM
This is a pretty common debate. Most believe that the main girdle does nothing but hold the 2 halves together once it splits.

Generally, it is said that 500rwhp is the magic number, from what Ive seen. I went with a Dart block, so I have no worries, lol.

Sprayaway Fox
01-27-2009, 02:39 AM
My bud split his with a E303 on some GT40 iron heads NA. Granted he drove it a lot and was a SCCA car but took the timing cover off and it fell in 2 pieces....It stil ran though just had a hella shake to it.:rolf
Then he went a E 303 aluminum headed GT 40 crate on a Novi 2000 and it didnt split with the same poundage on it.

I bought a topend girdle....Looking at it I dont believe it does nothing. The bolts that go in the block after you tap them are smaller then a penwith diameter. I have seen a guy take a bar and actually weld across the valley for strength:wooo His stuff is still running, but havent talked to him in a while. Also as Badass stated 500 is the rule of thumb. High RPM makes them walk around a lil bit.

badass88gt
01-27-2009, 03:44 AM
The Valley Girdle may be the biggest SB Ford scam yet....

HRSEPLA
01-27-2009, 07:20 AM
The ones I used to split were in the 600-650 FWHP range, they would last a while, but once they had any detonation or too much rpm is when I had issues...:chair:
When I shifted at 6,000-6,200 and kept the timing out of them, they lasted very long (mid/low 10's)

Windsors 03 Cobra
01-27-2009, 07:54 AM
The intake is the only valley girdle that matters

Sprayaway Fox
01-27-2009, 12:12 PM
The Valley Girdle may be the biggest SB Ford scam yet....

I can say i got scammed:crying everybody is looking for that magic cure for the roller SBF's and there isnt one besides going with a aftamarket block like Badass said.
The guys welded one looks like it will stay together (but you have to put the block in a oven to cook it all the oil etc. off) but thats a lil more serious than I would go.

DRK
01-27-2009, 01:51 PM
The guys welded one looks like it will stay together (but you have to put the block in a oven to cook it all the oil etc. off) but thats a lil more serious than I would go.

seeing as they crack from the main web up I see no benefit to welding in the lifter galley.

Sprayaway Fox
01-28-2009, 12:15 AM
His "theory" sounded real intracite and all but I just went with it cause after 20 minutes of explaining it,:alcoholicyou tend to go with whatever someone says.:)

Seriously if I tried to explain it it would take half the page up. lol

badass88gt
01-28-2009, 04:51 AM
Salesmanship. Some people can sell an icemaker to an Eskimo.

Swags63
01-28-2009, 07:07 PM
I have been told that at anything above the 600 mark will give you problems, but even when you start get close to this number it depends on how the power is applied, the year of the block, condition, and block prep. That’s my two cents take it or leave it.
:alcoholic:thumbsup

70 cutlass 442
02-08-2009, 03:31 AM
Well it sounds like i will be pushing it on the gun... the cam and intake pkg will require me to zing that thing to about 7500 rpm but thats to much from the sounds of it.... I mite just have to build a lighter car.

badass88gt
02-08-2009, 12:27 PM
Are you planning on going with an internal balance on the rotating assembly? Are they lightwieght componants? That will help a bit.

Al
02-23-2009, 03:10 AM
I was pondering about this problem (i know i should not) and came up with a new question:

Is it just an HP limit, or is it torque or RPM?

DurtyKurty
02-23-2009, 08:40 AM
Is it just an HP limit, or is it torque or RPM?


Yes.

DRK
02-23-2009, 08:40 AM
The problem is crank walk. It's from a lack of material in the main webs and small 2-bolt caps on and in the light weight production block. A dart block is 50lbs heavier then a roller block.

HRSEPLA
02-23-2009, 09:01 AM
Yes.

lol

Al
02-23-2009, 09:02 AM
Yes.

Which one first?

Al
02-23-2009, 09:03 AM
The problem is crank walk. It's from a lack of material in the main webs and small 2-bolt caps on and in the light weight production block. A dart block is 50lbs heavier then a roller block.

Is a Dart not a roller?

Sprayaway Fox
02-23-2009, 11:44 AM
My Dart block has a beefier design with more casting. If you run a earlier non roller block they are stronger. Roller blocks split rite up the middle. If RPM's dont get to high they can live for a decent while. High R's make things shift around a lil.

DRK
02-23-2009, 12:16 PM
Is a Dart not a roller?

Yes the DART is a roller cam capable block. Most refer to the production Ford block as a roller block.

DurtyKurty
02-23-2009, 12:25 PM
Is a Dart not a roller?

Yes it is. But when you hear someone make a reference to "the Roller Block" they are referring to the 87-up production block. (sometimes 85-86 also) Any other blocks will be named specifically. I.e. Dart block, Sportsman block, Mexican block, etc.

DurtyKurty
02-23-2009, 12:26 PM
Woops Darrel already got that one... :)

Al
02-23-2009, 02:43 PM
BTW- since I lost my wagon, I've been thinking about replacing it with a 302-powered car.