U-joint

[lilws6]

so i think i finally toasted a u-joint in the T/A bout time somethign shows signs of my abuse from about 22,xxx miles of beating on the damn thing :D i mean i don't beat on my stuff :goof any who on my way home from work i was on the phone so i had my radio down on mute and as i came to a stop sign i started to hear a faint click click click noise thoght it was coming from te brakes so i let off no different. my exhaust is too loud to hear it while driving so evert stop i made i was listening for it. kinda sounds like what dodges sound like with bad u-joints up front but much fainter and in the back of the car. Does this mean i should start saving up for my new rear end? just put it off til it goes or should i acually jack it up and feel if its a bad joint and fix it now? I want to drive it to my buddies wedding so i can look cool atleast for a bit. whats the worst thats going to happen? will the drive shaft bend if it lets go? i knew i should have gotten that driveshaft loop when i ordered the headers:mad: now i'm all worried lol sorry for my long rant i just love my car way too much

[0TransAm0]

just fix it...nothing like driving around town or in with the wedding peeps and have it break down... F that shiat. fix it... no need for a whole new rear end(unless you looking for an excuse for replacing it) :)

[Brian98GTP]

whats the worst thats going to happen?

It could create a Black Hole that would fall to the center of the Earth, and begin destroying this planet from the inside out. I can't see it getting much worse than that!! :stare

[lilws6]

if i can break it with the right amount of torque the power of the break could create the greatest suction this world would ever see. i like that theory. i gata couple weeks we'll see if i get time to pull he shaft out and get it fixed lol

[forest]

you could break the u joint, let the driveshaft punch a hole in the floor, and snap the back of the transmission off....... but thats up to you.

[lilws6]

i don't think its that bad yet but i don't drive it that much but when i do i beat it so i'm shur it would go quick if i continue to drive it i'll have to maybe give napa dan a call and get a price if i can afford it at the moment

[Holeshot]

If its clicking its just a matter of time. I have seen drive shafts drop and cause a car to catapult the rear end up and back down. Seen em twist like pretzels come through the floor pan and snap like twigs. U joints are cheap.

[forest]

yup, a dropped driveshaft can seriously F your shit up!!!! fix it while you can still afford it.

[BAD LS1]

Just swap it out Don... bring it up by me if u want some night during the week or whatever and get it done in 45 min. If you do it your self, u will need a torch or really good heat gun to burn out the plastic retaining shit, once its good and hot they press right out! The joint its self is a mechanics 3R (metric) joint too... Go for the precision sold ones (no grease zurk) if u can locate one for some added strength.

If your gonna put a rear end in it, save up the extra 3xx for a good DS too, them factory AL ones like to solid can on slicks pretty handily.

[lilws6]

where can i get the non grease ones? we have an oxy acetaline torch at work plenty hot guy at work showed me how to do em once. i may come out by ya we'll see what i can do this week

[BAD LS1]

where can i get the non grease ones? we have an oxy acetaline torch at work plenty hot guy at work showed me how to do em once. i may come out by ya we'll see what i can do this week

Napa should be able to get you one.

[wrath]

Get a Spicer or Neapco Brute Force joint. Any other parts store joints are junk. I've broken 20 or 30 joints and wore out another 30 or 40.

I got 7 weeks out of a greasable Precision joint once before the trunnions looked like eggs. Carquest joints are Precision reboxes (or at least were). I had a Precision gold joint gain some brinelling which is the first joint I ever had that happen to.

You'll need a S44 (3R) joint. For a Neapco Brute Force it'd be a 23011. For Spicer it'd be SPL25-6X. The Neapco joint is ~$14 whereas the Spicer joint is ~$24. These two are by far the longest lasting ones I've ever had. I've probably put 20 of them in random crap that are still working today. The S44 joint is really common. It's been used since 1980 in tons of stuff from double-cardan CVs in front driveshafts in GM 4x4s and Chrysler products to rear universals in tons of crap like F-bodies and half ton pickups.

Spicer is still my favorite but they're pricey. I've run 1310, S44, 1350, 1410, and 5806x (Dana 60 wheel universals).

[lilws6]

i don't need to spend a bunch on a ujoint shortly the rears gana come out nd its going to get a new hefty drive shaft with it. so a napa joint will do me just fine