Correct Fire Extinguisher to keep in the car ?

[awsomeears]

Well I drove the Neon today and it boosted :stare:stare:stare:stare I have a few issues to fix but it runs :banana1:

I would like to carry 2 small Fire Extinguishers in my car, what is the correct class ?

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ ?

- Brad -

[awsomeears]

An no this doesn't mean I'm going to blow it up !!!!!!!!!!

S
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1st boys and girls

[Boost21]

Im sure someone will chime in, if nobody does before the next time I go by the car I'll check for ya

[GRAMPS SS]

one that works....:rolf:rolf:rolf:rolf:rolf:rolf:rolf:rolf :goof

[indyzmike]

An ABC extinguisher will work great on oil or gas fires and will not cost too much. The bad part is that the powder they dispense is very corrosive and makes a total mess of an engine compartment or interior. Maybe a kitchen type foam extinguisher is better on an engine fire.:confused

I had a halon extinguisher, but they ruin the ozone layer. There might be a good replacement chemical by now.

[Sprayaway Fox]

I had a altenator fire once and I luckily bought one of those "cool chrome" onz from AZ and it put it out and left white powder but rinsed it off. You can gettm in a minitrucking mag powdercoated any color for like 10 buck... good investment for anybody with a car they like.

[Heat Seeker WS6]

I got my extinguisher from Farm n Fleet. They have several to choose from for auto use.

Info for ya
Linky (http://www.h3rperformance.com/support_faq.htm)

[flyin_blue_egg]

i don't know which kind to use. but i know from experience that if the fire reaches the seats your car is as good as gone until the FD gets there. just my .02

[ND4SPD]

If you don't want to do your engine in you have to use a halon or halon replacement extinguisher. They're expensive, but the dry chems make a hellacious mess. The powder is so fine that it gets into everything. Good luck cleaning it off. I've dealt with hundereds of vehicle fires and every fire that has been put out with a dry chem has basically totalled the car. You really only need a BC fire extinguisher because chances are you're not going to be putting out ordinary combustible fires (i.e. trash fires) with it.

http://www.h3rperformance.com/halguard_products.htm

[Heat Seeker WS6]

My rebuilt alternator caught fire last spring and the franklin FD came and put it out. I had smoke billowing out from under the hood and it was flaming pretty good and came close to loosing the whole thing but caught it soon enough before it got to spead. The entire front half of the car & motor were foamed or powdered (whatever they used) and then they took a high pressure line to rinse it off a few minutes later. Granted the hood got warped a bit and it got singed- can still see it today but all I 'lost' was the alternator and a bunch of wiring, but the exterior paint and everything esle made it through the foaming just fine.

this is the rating you want a car extingisher to have- UL rated 5-B:C
I have 2 of these in the car from Farm & Fleet... save your car (http://www.farmandfleet.com/catalog/product.aspx?i=208501&h=050603002)

[ND4SPD]

If they use class B foam you need to rinse the car off really really really really really really really well because Class B is EXTREMELY corrosive. One of the 2 1/2 discharge caps on our truck had to be replaced because there was a small amount of B foam solution that had been sitting in the cap and had eaten through the metal. Not sure exactly how long it took... but I wouldn't want to leave metal in contact with it for any length of time.

It's not so much the foams as the dry chemicals. The powder is so fine that it gets into anything and everything. We had a dry chem extinguisher fall over and go off in one of the side compartments of the truck... it was a mess. Thing is the stuff doesn't dissolve readilly in water which can make it hard to wash off. You also need to inspect and propbably replace your air filter any time you have to shoot off dry chem in your engine compartment.

[Heat Seeker WS6]

If they use class B foam you need to rinse the car off really really really really really really really well because Class B is EXTREMELY corrosive. One of the 2 1/2 discharge caps on our truck had to be replaced because there was a small amount of B foam solution that had been sitting in the cap and had eaten through the metal. Not sure exactly how long it took... but I wouldn't want to leave metal in contact with it for any length of time.

It's not so much the foams as the dry chemicals. The powder is so fine that it gets into anything and everything. We had a dry chem extinguisher fall over and go off in one of the side compartments of the truck... it was a mess. Thing is the stuff doesn't dissolve readilly in water which can make it hard to wash off. You also need to inspect and propbably replace your air filter any time you have to shoot off dry chem in your engine compartment.

Yep, I hand scrubbed my engine bay & etc down for many hours after that mess. Id easily do that chore again versus sifting through charred car remains.

[Cryptic]

once your block starts on fire aint nothing gonna put it out unless you deep 6 it :goof

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_classes

B and C would be your best bet.... nothing is high voltage

[ND4SPD]

Really all you need is a "B" extinguisher then. But yeah, a block fire would be a class D fire. :D Once the intake or block starts up... it's damn impressive. Especially when you start spraying water on them because the metal burns so hot that it actually breaks the water molecules apart into free Hydrogen and Oxygen and burns them. Or, if you rapidly cool it, it can also shatter.

So you get something like this:

PSnYQddXTcU

or this:

3Yqlgb1w62o

[Cryptic]

that's why I said to push it into a lake.