Mild setup-what do you guys predict

[jersyboyy]

Godswill my motor is going to be done soon. Iv been ordering parts and working on things with it for awhile now and I should have it up and running next week with pics and videos too.

Here is the setup let me know what your predictions are guys...

85 camaro stock open 3.08 rear

Motor is a 69-80 0010 350 4 bolt block. Bored .40 over making it a 357.
Using .015 thick steel shim head gaskets
Has Flat top 4 valve relief pistons
Comp cam .488/.490 lift 110 lsa 230/236 @ .050
High flow water pump
Mid mount alt setup
Edelbrock performer RPM intake
200 cc Dart iron eagle heads with 72 cc chambers-they are highly ported with 2.02 valves with guideplates and screw in studs
Speed o motive springs good for .550 lift
hardened push rods
1.5 long slotted steel rockers
Holly 750 vac sec carb fresh rebuild with new jets and accelerator pump nozzle
K&n 14" round airfilter
Hedman shortie headers
Hedman Y pipe
Gutted cat
Hooker Aerochamber catback
Tranny has been rebuild lass than 5k ago and said to have been rebuilt stronger by the shop
Everything minus the dash and front driver seat has been gutted
Car has a lightweight 2 inch fiberglass cowl hood

Let me know what you guys think the motor will make in power & as it stands in the 1/4.

Thanks fellas.

[forest]

300rwhp and mid 13s. Diff is junk that will hold you back a lot, also, look at getting a better intake manifold and headers.

[nismodave]

250 RWHP and High 14s considering driver.

[juicedimpss]

it need a loose convertor.with a stock convertor and a 3.08 gear ill say low 14's if it hooks.

[Prince Valiant]

I'm going to echo Ron...but I'll say that it might ska-week out high 13's...I wouldn't think any faster than 13.7. I say b/w 240-260whp.

Pair that combo with 2800 stall T/C and 3.73 gears however, and you might surprise yourself.

For reference though, here's a combo I ran for a while:
3700lbs including driver
wide ratio 4 speed/OD manual trans, 2.94 gears, open differential.
360, .060 over for 371ci.
8.2:1 CR
Stock 1.88 valve mid 70's non-smog heads, good 3 angle valve job by performance shop, MP performance valve springs.
Holley 4016 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb
Eddy Performer intake (non-rpm)
MP performance 268/272 adv, 228/232 dur @ .050, .450/.455 lift, 112 LSA
Hedman Headers, long tube, 1 5/8th dia.
MP electronic ignition, advanced to 16* @ idle, 40* total, all in by 2800rpm.

That similarly weighted and geared car (maybe slightly heavier worse on both counts), with less heads, less carb, and a touch less cam, and likely less compression ran a best of 14.2 @ 95mph...3.90's took it down to 13.7....

[jersyboyy]

WOW I personally know of a intake/carb/headers 305 thirdgen running 14.3.

In any event I know my rear is garbage and im planning on running an ls1 10 bolt with 3:73's. Lca's,panhard bar, strut tower brace, drag radials in the back and a 2800 stall.

[juicedimpss]

WOW I personally know of a intake/carb/headers 305 thirdgen running 14.3.

In any event I know my rear is garbage and im planning on running an ls1 10 bolt with 3:73's. Lca's,panhard bar, strut tower brace, drag radials in the back and a 2800 stall.

the problem with the combo is the lack of gear/convertor for the cam you have jersey. it will prob run close to 99mph im guessing.
just needs the convertor and gear to get the car into the power.

[theavenger333]

WOW I personally know of a intake/carb/headers 305 thirdgen running 14.3.

In any event I know my rear is garbage and im planning on running an ls1 10 bolt with 3:73's. Lca's,panhard bar, strut tower brace, drag radials in the back and a 2800 stall.

you found a super rare setup or they lied to you Jeremy. like ron said, hell like everyone said, you're gonna make some power, but have little chance to get it to the ground. there's quite a few cars on here that run less power then others, but have proper traction and gearing, and are much faster

[70 cutlass 442]

:wstupid not enough converter or gear, motor deffintaly has some potential, probably 250ish at the wheels, but you wont feel it with that drive line!

[jersyboyy]

I had the car dynoed a few months before I blew my headgaskets.

Performer intake, much smaller cam, 600 cfm carb, headers, stock exhaust, old crappy 882 heads.

200 horsepower to the wheels at 4200 rpm...they shut it down because it was running severely lean.

[forest]

so you think you will get an other 100 hp with what you did? The car will make what it makes, I have a junkyard motor going in my car and I bet it does 300 rwhp on a good day.....

[jersyboyy]

Well with a good tune running at 5000+ rpms and the new heads alone should make more than 50 hp.
I mean im not dumb but that sounds logical to me!

[Prince Valiant]

Keep in mind Jersyboyy....that it's always best to be a little pessimistic going to the track...

Get it done and run it...personally I'm looking forward to seeing the slips.

[jersyboyy]

:) as am I prince. You mentioned when I first got the car that we should have done a wicked sbc build. Well it may not be wicked but I did manage to build something out of this.

If the car is running monday ill do the best I can to tune it up and dial everything in tuesday.
Wed is the last time the local drag strip will be holding their monthly bbq. They have tons of food and its a test and tune kind of event. Im hoping to attend, cross your fingers.

[70 cutlass 442]

you could always hit it with a 150 shot, that should wake it up even with a tight converter and lack of gear!

[jersyboyy]

Hidden 150 shot is on my list for after I changed the stall and rear and throw some susp mods at it.

[nismodave]

Make sure the Alternator is good.

[Irish]

14.2-14.0 at 98-100mph with a 2.0 60 foot.

[jersyboyy]

Spent the last 5 days straight putting the motor together taking it apart and putting it back right. Cant get it to start. Iv been told to check the timing again, which iv already done a few times but im going to give it another shot tommorow when the battery charges back up. Wish me luck fellas

[Prince Valiant]

Spent the last 5 days straight putting the motor together taking it apart and putting it back right. Cant get it to start. Iv been told to check the timing again, which iv already done a few times but im going to give it another shot tommorow when the battery charges back up. Wish me luck fellasdoes it fire back or anything...not an unusual thing to put 180 degrees off when stabbing in the distributer. Take a compression tester too just to make sure you're getting compression....and if you're putting fuel down there, gettting spark, and have compression, it should run. :thumbsup

[jersyboyy]

cam and crank gears wernt aligned!!! DOH, could ahve been BAD but after tearing it all down again and fixing it I did NOT bend any valves or anything. I proceeded to reset the distributor and SOUNDS LIKE A BEAST!
I just now have to set the throttle, and kickdown cable up, put the ypipe on it and get it welded and I should have this thing running at the track after my 500 mile break in!

Ill post my crappy camera phone video up in a bit ;)

[Racer X79]

Good luck with the build, nice to hear about a third gen. After having trouble on the first fire up with the flat tappet cam, be sure to run a high zinc content oil(shell rotella t-diesel oil for example), or zinc additive, so you don't smoke the lobes on the cam. Time/horsepower wise I'm thinking low 15's to high 14's in the 1/4 and around 250 hp at the rear tires. The 3.08 open is gonna kill you no matter what, you definitely need more gear and a posi. If your strapped for cash, try out a $80 ish mini spool and at least get the peg leg taken care of. Once you get 3.73-4.11 gears and sticky tires you'll be mid 13's easy. :thumbsup

[jersyboyy]

Rotella t and stp 4cycle oil treatment has more than enough zinc to break in the flat tappet cam. Only thing is its not cheap, you have to drain and fill the oil aftr the first 30 min break in period then again at 500 miles.
Build went pretty good it sounds mean I just have some small things to put back together to get her driving around but im very happy.
Im going to save up for a hp posi carrier and 373's for the extra rear I have sitting in the garage.

[jersyboyy]

Videos on streetfire.net

<a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Camaro-with-new-parts-up_178939.htm"><img src="http://px2.sfstatic.com/handlers/GetSizedVideoThumb.ashx?id=178939&w=180"/><br>Camaro with new parts just started up. </a> (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Camaro-with-new-parts-up_178939.htm)

<a href="http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Camaro-running-part-2_178940.htm"><img src="http://px2.sfstatic.com/handlers/GetSizedVideoThumb.ashx?id=178940&w=180"/><br>Camaro running part 2</a> (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Camaro-running-part-2_178940.htm)

[Prince Valiant]

sounds good dude...get it running on the street with a healthy break-in, and get to the track for some slips!

[jersyboyy]

I wish I could but after 2k rpms it backfires from the carb & loses power. I cant get it running on the street properlly. I was thinking a worm cam lobe but all the rocker arms move like they shoul(visual inspection with the valve covers off). Could my valve lash be WAY too tight since I just bolted the rockers down and didnt really know how to adjust them other than making sure they were tight? or is that another problem in it self?

[BadAzzGTA89]

Could my valve lash be WAY too tight since I just bolted the rockers down and didnt really know how to adjust them other than making sure they were tight? or is that another problem in it self?

I think that could be the problem!
BTW the car is looking good.

[jersyboyy]

Alrite well im going to loosen them al lup and run the motor and tighten them untill it stops clattering then give iti an extra 1/2 turn(just read how to do that now). Could this have bent a valve, I mean it could but wouldnt I hear that or no?


Thanks, its been alot of work but its FAR from looking as good as your car.

*update* I loosened them all up, car wouldnt start i started tightening them up and eventually it started. I began to tighten th rockers that looked really loose and then it started idling better. I took it around the block and it seem that helped a lot but still not right on. I also need to get my kickdown connected properlly.

[Prince Valiant]

The best way to adjust these things easily is to pull the intake off (I know...a bear) and physically SEE the lifters. This works best when assembling the engine.

The ones where the lifter is on the base circle, start to tighten down the rocker arm. As you do this, move the pushrod up and down. When you can know longer move the pushrod up/down, turn the rocker nut ~ 1 1/2 turns more to set the pre-load. Do as many as you can then rotate the engine a 1/4 turn and do whichever lifters are on the base circle of the cam (they'll appear flush with the block). Continue until there is no free-play in any pushrod when the lifter is on it's base circle...shouldn't take more than 2 turns of the engine to get through them all.

Otherwise, there is a fairly simple way to do it that I can think of...get the engine to TDC on the compression stroke. The number 1 intake and exhaust valve should be closed. Use pretty much the same way to tighten the rocker arm as I said...then move the engine a 1/4 (using a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer crank bolt) turn and follow the next in the firing order (not sure what it is on a chevy)...do that and another 1/4 turn...again, two revolutions of the engine and that'll get you through all 8. Not sure if that's the easiest way, but that's how I'd probably approach it. Should also be some tutorials on the web too...

[juicedimpss]

I wish I could but after 2k rpms it backfires from the carb & loses power. I cant get it running on the street properlly. I was thinking a worm cam lobe but all the rocker arms move like they shoul(visual inspection with the valve covers off). Could my valve lash be WAY too tight since I just bolted the rockers down and didnt really know how to adjust them other than making sure they were tight? or is that another problem in it self?

:wow
get someone over there to help you!
that is one of THE most important things to keeping a flat tappet cam from going flat.

[jersyboyy]

I will be taking the valve covers off tommorow and rechecking the rocker arms.

Turn the motor with a wrench untill the pushrod on the intake valve of the particular cyl is all the way up then tighten it untill theirs no up and down movement of the pushrod but can still spin freely. Give it an extra 1/2 turn then turn the motor over untill the exhaust on that cyl is all the way up and do the same for that.
Repeat for each cyl.
Correct?

[Racer X79]

I will be taking the valve covers off tommorow and rechecking the rocker arms.

Turn the motor with a wrench untill the pushrod on the intake valve of the particular cyl is all the way up then tighten it untill theirs no up and down movement of the pushrod but can still spin freely. Give it an extra 1/2 turn then turn the motor over untill the exhaust on that cyl is all the way up and do the same for that.
Repeat for each cyl.
Correct?

You want the pushrod all the way down, not all the way up. Up=Valve open, Down=Valve closed, all the rockers must be adjusted with the valve closed. As Prince said, the easiest way is to chase the firing order-TDC on #1(both pushrods should be even height), tighten the rocker while spinning the pushrod with your fingers and stop when you feel slight resistance(now your at zero lash) and then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn to the rocker. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. The other way is old school and effective but messy. First, get the car to idle as low as it can without killing and get it up to temperature. Take off the valve covers, then fire it up. While it's running, back off each rocker(one at a time) until it starts to "tick" and then slowly tighten it until it's quiet(zero lash), then add your 1/4 to 1/2 turn to load the lifter. The biggest drawback is that oil will spray out the pushrod hole and get your headers and fenderwells, but it is quick and easy. Good Luck:thumbsup

[jersyboyy]

Yea I did the old school way after my last post, im going to still do the chase the firing order method to be positive its right.

[forest]

:wow
get someone over there to help you!
that is one of THE most important things to keeping a flat tappet cam from going flat.

+1 hate to say it but if those rockers were too tight on start up, cam and lifters may be junk. :(

[jersyboyy]

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/DynoSheets/XE274H-10_001.asp

WOOT I stumbled upon this dyno sheet using almost the IDENTICAL setup im running. (their running the older Dart/World S/R heads-171cc/(76 or 67)cc heads as im using the newer Dart 200cc/72cc heads)

Def Great power/torque numbers but im unclear if its motor or wheel power?
Either way I cant wait to get my carb situation fixed so I can start using this predicted power!

[juicedimpss]

thats crankshaft power for sure.

[theavenger333]

besides, you can build the exact same motor twice and you won't get the same results both times. who cares about power numbers anyway jeremy, it's what gets to the ground that counts.

[jersyboyy]

Das is true Steve.
Either way I need to rebuild my carb and just have fun driving it no matter how much power its making at this point. Thanks for the info guys.

[jersyboyy]

4th gen 3:42 LSD rear with disc brakes-picking it up and putting it in 3 weeks.
Im currently rebuilding the carb I bought(used) because well its been through hell and back. Hopefully I can get the car running right with a carb that doesnt have every gasket torn/dried up including the powervalve and diaphrams.

[jersyboyy]

Im picking up the springs and rear this weekend.
I had some help from the auto shop teacher at my old highschool.

My rocker arms were actually loose as hell!

We tightened them down properly the old school way going one cyl at a time. We then set the timing with a gun and started dialing everything in.

The carb I rebuild was having some problems tho.
First the one idle mixture screw had no effect on the car at all, and after giving it a WOT run the secondaries are getting stuck flooding the carb. Once the secondaries open up they pour gas into the intake and the car coughs and dies. Shes running SUPER rich too.

Im picking up a 750 edelbrock on monday if I cant find a good double pumper this weekend at the big swap meet.

[juicedimpss]

fix the double pumper.

[jersyboyy]

3310-2 vaccum secondary carb, I decided against the edelbrock after taking the holley to a local speed shop. old school guy is rebuilding it tearing off the choke setup and putting a quick change spring kit in it on top of promising that itll run perfect all for 70 bucks.