Motor build ideas.

[jersyboyy]

I just recently blew my head gaskets again and figured I might as well build the motor form the ground up this time and just get a beater for a dd.

I have done some research and this is going to be an ongoing build for the next 6 months but I want to dial in what im saving for before I purchase it.

Iv got a 350 bored .40 over now, 4 bolt mains.
Im just going to pull it replace the headgasket and keep it as a spare and start from the ground up for the new motor.

Im thinking 350 4 bolt main again .40 over.

Trick flow 490hp top end kit from summit. (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK314%2D490%2D440&autoview=sku)

This Scat rotating assembly kit (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SCA%2D1%2D40005BI%2D40&autoview=sku)

I was thinking the dual quad air gap would be kind of a mean look (http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=320103)

With two edelbrock 500 carbs (http://www.racecarsinc.com/ed500cfmthse.html)

Or just the dual plane air gap rpm (http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=320103)

with a single 800 cfm holly double pumper or 770 street avenger carb

Holly 170 gph fuel pump

I was thinking of using the same headers I have now(hedman shorties 1 5/8"-3" collectors), adding the new hedman y pipe and connecting it without a cat to my hooker 3" aero chamber catback I just got not to long ago.

For the rear, I have a 2 series rear from a 96 z28 with 273's. I want to rebuild it with a 373 thick gear, weld the axles, fill it with synthetic fluids, throw a t/a girdle on it and it needs brakes, probally going with stock lt1 or maybe ls1 breaks with the correct proportioning valve.

Now as for cooling goes.

I will be getting a Griffin Aluminum Race Radiator,Flex lite 16" flex fan and spacer, electric fan setup out of a Lincoln mark VIII(for extra cooling while driving, staging and after the car shuts off), fan shroud for the mechanical fan, and an air dam.

This will be a on going project for the next few months, so any suggestions, comments, concerns and advice would be great.

[juicedimpss]

how fast are you trying to go?
hard to recommend without knowing what your goals are.

[70 cutlass 442]

well for one, if your going for acutal performance, ditch the dual quad idea, they may have made good power in the 60's but thats about it. second, Horse power and Edelbrock carbs dont go togeather period. And that holly would be wayyyy to much carb for a street driving 350 that only makes HP in the 450 area. But like ron said, what are your power goals?

[Yooformula]

holy shit are you kidding me!?!?!?!?! how many times have you put a motor in this thing or had someone else pay for a rebuild. phuck dude. stop messing with it and just enjoy the damm thing.

[MurphysLaw88GT]

why do the gaskets keep blowing?

[nismodave]

holy shit are you kidding me!?!?!?!?! how many times have you put a motor in this thing or had someone else pay for a rebuild. phuck dude. stop messing with it and just enjoy the damm thing.

You know this fella, Yoo?:D

Im sure he knows at least how to "JACK" the car.:rolf:rolf:rolf

[theavenger333]

knows how to dig holes for mailboxes.....

[Prince Valiant]

my $0.02...though many would argue it's worth less.

First off Ron and that cutlass dude are right...what are the goals?

But, even without the goals, there are still some answerable questions:

Are you sure you want all forged? If you're sticking with a 350, you're probably best off just sticking with the cast crank, stock resized rods fitted with arp rod bolts, and nice hyper-pistons....unless of course you want to throw more than 150 shot of NOx at it...the money you save though could go elsewhere.

Then, IF you are thinking big shot's of the juice, AND getting a whole new rotating assembly that's all forged, why get a 350? Go with the 383 kit's they've got out there...price difference is pretty much nothing. More cubes is virtually always a good thing.

If that's the route you go with ohio crankshaft (http://www.ohiocrank.com/home.html). They've got quality stuff for much less than the scat kits.

Another thing I'd suggest, is don't weld the gears...get a cheap auburn limited slip or something if you plan to use it on the street.

Understand an engine like that will punish not just your rear which you are planning to address...but the tranny as well so be prepared to spend decent money there. On top of that, you're going to want a top quality fairly high stall T/C converter with it...especially if NOx is involved...probably with the cam in that kit, you'd want something in the 36-4200rpm range :wow

A Holley DP would work best with this engine...750-850cfm is fine.

I'll predict one thing though...that engine, with a decent trans/tc will break the rear you've got planned for it with any kind of traction...might want to think bigger yet. Got a 9"?

[70 cutlass 442]

/\/\/\ very well put, except, i would go forged pistons instead of hypers, the cost difference is pretty minimal, and forged will not only take spray better, but also if your tune is off and you run into detonation at all, a forged piston will be more forgiving. and hes absolutely right on the stroker rotate, very minimal cost difference.

[MurphysLaw88GT]

lsjuan like everyone else?

[jersyboyy]

Head gaskets keep going because the cars cooling system is totally inadequite, stock cooling for a 305 from 85! I believe the radiator is shot and the water pump is on its way out. That will be all addressed with the new motor.

This would be the third time this car has had a motor put in or rebuild if I actually go through with it.

And yes yoo knows me, and he knows i know how to rip mailboxes out of the ground pretty well too!!

I want a mean street car that will beat my brothers car one day that I can be proud of saying- I built that o and saying it beats my brothers car! ;)

No ls1 got played out when I saw it in a plane!
383 has crossed my mind heavily and im still considering it, forged is def the route im going tho.
Nitrous will probally be a later factor and I want to make sure it can handle that.
After some reseaching and reconsideration im dumping the dual carb idea and def want the edelbrock air gap rpm intake with a holly 770 street avenger carb.
As far as the tranny goes its been rebuild and they shop said it should handle up to 400.
Futher detailing with a 3800 stall will be neccasary but as far as right now im trying to think about just the motor.
I have this rear sitting in my garage and figure itl'l be a few hundred to set it up the way I want it "in the mean time" untill I can afford a moser 12 bolt or similar.

[70 cutlass 442]

ummm, what cam are you looing at, the air gap might be a bit more intake the needed seeing as thats a heavier car, but 400 hp will be a cake walk on that motor, especialy if a 383 is done.

[juicedimpss]

3800 stall?
racecar

[Prince Valiant]

3800 stall?
racecar
Not if it has A/C :rolf

[juicedimpss]

Not if it has A/C :rolf

lol,nice

[jersyboyy]

No a/c and the entire interior has been stripped out of it already. :goof
Trickflow cam part of the top end kit-246/254 degree duration at .050, .495/.510 in. lift

[70 cutlass 442]

seems way mis matched for that intake, someone correct me if im wrong, seems a bit on the small end for that intake

[Prince Valiant]

Fine...here's what I'd do:

Get the ohio crank rotating assembly, 383 ci. ~ 1295.
Two ways to go about the heads:
1. Find a good set of trick-flow/dart/etc heads b/w 195cc, or preferably 215cc on ebay or swap meets/forum's/etc...there's enough stuff out there.
2. Just go with some edlebrock EPS heads...@ 200cc they're big enough, and decently priced, easy to bolt on.

You're compression will vary depending on the head you select...it'll be in the 11.5:1 range with the eddy heads, and around 10:1 with heads in the 74cc range. Being AL heads, flat-top pistons, good combustion chambers, and a big cam, any of these CR's should work fine with pump gas.

Cam: Cheap way would be to stick with a hyd flat-tappet. Spec's of 240-ish/250ish would be fine. Keep a tight LSA of 108 preferably. An engine like this could concievably touch 500+hp with a good solid cam (flat or roller).

Intake: With a 3800rpm stall, why go with a dual plane? Get the single plane.
Carb: Again, with a 3800rpm stall, don't get vacuum secondaries...go with the double pumper. A street avenger would be fine with moderate cam, moderate stall t/c, etc...you'd be leaving alot on the table with your combo and NOT going with a DP imo. 750 cfm minimum, 850 for best performance (you can tune a DP to be great on the street)

Headers: 1 3/4 is preferable.

That'd safely hit any performance goal you've got.

[juicedimpss]

seems way mis matched for that intake, someone correct me if im wrong, seems a bit on the small end for that intake

with that much convertor in anything,i wouldnt waste my time with a dual plane.

[jersyboyy]

[QUOTE=jersyboyy;390082]After some reseaching and reconsideration im dumping the dual carb idea and def want the edelbrock air gap rpm intake with a holly 770 street avenger carb. QUOTE]

That would be a single plane intake with a carb bigger than 750cfm. The 870 I was thinking would be too big tho but the 850 dp was my very first choice, just liked the way the street avengers shine.

I stand corrected that is a dual plane carb...my bad.

Im looking into that whole setup you just recommended prince. Like I origonally posted, im open to suggestions and concerns before I start buying up parts.

[juicedimpss]

[QUOTE=jersyboyy;390082]After some reseaching and reconsideration im dumping the dual carb idea and def want the edelbrock air gap rpm intake with a holly 770 street avenger carb. QUOTE]

That would be a single plane intake with a carb bigger than 750cfm. The 870 I was thinking would be too big tho but the 850 dp was my very first choice, just liked the way the street avengers shine.

I stand corrected that is a dual plane carb...my bad.

Im looking into that whole setup you just recommended prince. Like I origonally posted, im open to suggestions and concerns before I start buying up parts.

if race gas isnt a problem for you,we have a 408 that would run pretty good.

[jersyboyy]

I dont want to buy a crate motor or an already built motor. I want to put it together my self and build it with some help from some experienced friends. Has to be able to drive on the street for some fun on the weekends but wont be driven more than 2 days a week when completed.
Not looking for a full blown race motor with 100+ octane only fuel but something with some impressive numbers for a 19 year olds first build.

For a little over 3 grand thats a pretty good motor tho.

Plus Id like to keep my compression low 12:1 is not where im shooting for.

[jersyboyy]

Well currently I have 90 percent of my current motor apart. New gasket set is coming this week, and im considering even beefing up my cam lifters and springs! In a few weeks ill have my current motor rebuilt with some more power and then ill start slowly buying up parts for the new build!