Concrete Help, Anyone Pour here?

[UnderPSI]

I am looking right now to just do a 20'x30' slab 4" thick. Eventually I want to do the whole 80'x30' but I am thinking that is going to be way too much.

Just wondering if any one does this and about how much it would be.

Thanks, Brad

[RanJer]

I'll give my brother a call.. Or you can call Tetzlaff Masonary, that's where he works and they're usually pretty reasonable. I'm sure he'd do it cheaper on the side though.

[Arigmaster]

Contact Tony Lalicata or John DeAngelis. Both are excellent concrete guys. I used to work for Tews when I moved back here from TX. I know both of them very well and they do quality work and won't screw you over. Lalicata did all the flat-work on my old rental properties.

[UnderPSI]

I am in Waukesha if that matters. I can do all the float work my self. I just need to get the concrete to my house at a reasonable price.

BTW I have A LOT of cases of beer if that helps.

[RanJer]

So you just need someone to frame it and pour it??

[UnderPSI]

I can frame it too. Just need the pour.

[RanJer]

Couldn't you just call like New Berlin Redi-Mix and have them dump it off? Theyre right down the road from you..

[Arigmaster]

Doesn't Meyers have the old Tews yard by the river?

[UnderPSI]

Kinda looking for a deal on the side.

[Arigmaster]

Got it... Lemme see if Doug still works over there and I'll PM ya if he does with a special price...

[Nix]

This is actually a question I was going to be asking in the next 2-3 months cause our house is going to be done at the end of April and we are moving in on the weekend of May 5th. we are going to need our driveway done and if memory serves me right its approx. 1,250ft.

Anyone know how much or how much per square ft? If you want PM me details and prices.

Sorry UnderPSI Im not trying to jack your thread but I was going to be asking this in the near future so I figured I would just post now and get it outta the way.:)

[Holeshot]

Well take your L X H X W and divide x 27 that will give you the yardage you need. Also remember if your driving on it you need to use sone kind if rebar or reinforcing steel in it. When your ready call the concrete co tell them what your doing and they will tell you what slump/ mix to use. Remember to let them know you have limited experience and they will make the mix wetter. Make sure your grade is correct, you have a good stone base for proper drainage, felt strips if your poring up to a building. Have your forms in place and a good 2 x 4 x what ever long so you can strike it off . You should have 16" on each side to hold on to while striking. you should have a seam trowel for every 6 or 8 feet. A good edger trowel and a stiff 26" broom if you want a no skid finish. A good sealer is a good idea. The most important thing is do not use salt or calcium chloride for 18 to 24 months as this will cause the concrete to pit and pop.

[Holeshot]

Oh I would be happy to help you if needed and its on a weekend off for me.

[UnderPSI]

I will keep that in mind. I need about one full truckfull for every section I want to do. (4 total) Somewhere between 8 and 9 yards depending on how thick I end up with.

[Arigmaster]

On a square foot basis with no tear out work you might want to budget around $4.00 to $4.50 a square foot. That includes compacted traffic bond, framing, steel mesh, concrete and all the finishing.

That price is based on using a true 6 bag low-chert mix with darivair. Figure toward the 4.50 if you want to add fibers. The cost of the mix varies depending on the formulas. a cheaper mix would be a 5 bag with flyash in it. One thing to remember though is to order with darivare in it or the surface start popping with the first frost. Low-chert is a mix using crushed lime stone rather than regular washed #1 stone it finishes nicer and the surface seems to hold up better. (Fibers are an option to prevent cracking as the slabs settel over the years)

Hope that helps you both out a bit...