GM IFS suspension

[88Nightmare]

I heard with the chevy trucks with the IFS, you can easily lift them for little money. It consists of adjusting the front torsion bars, rear lift blocks, getting an alignment, and just get some bigger tires. Can anyone provide adetailed description on how this is done? I have never played with IFS before, hope someone on here has.

[Cryptic]

I thought it was the other way around...
I thought Fords were cheaper to lift (Twin-I-Beam/Straight Axle)

I could be wrong :confused


Suspension lift or body lift did you mean???

[88Nightmare]

I mean suspension. I swore I heard once before that you can adjust the torsion bars on the front end of the chevy trucks, therefore lifting the front end. You would then compensate the rear end with lift blocks. After cranking up the torsion bars on the front, you would need an alignment to correct the steering.

[PonyKiller87]

You could do that but the most you will gain with a torsion bar crank is maybe 2" and your going to be wearing out ball joints like crazy. My friend Mark (sparkyballz.. not sure exacly what it is) has a 95 with a 6" suspension lift on it and a 3" body. All IFS lifts are expensive. Depending on how big you want to go its not a bad option though.

A torsion bar crank and some blocks would probably let you clear 33s with some minor rubbing.

If you want more than that youll need an actual lift kit or a body lift.

If you want bigger than like 38s convert it to a solid axle or it will be a beast to drive and it will wear out parts constantly.

[Breecher_7]

Ill have to dissagree, my past two trucks ive had were leveled by cranking the torsion key adjustment bolts and I never had any problems with them at all. My current truck is at 30K with a 5 turn torsion crank wich leaves the rake at less then 1" and no problems and im running 33" tires on it with plenty of clearance. The only thing you need to pay money for is new shocks with a longer stroke if you actually plan to take it offroad because the stock shocks will bottom out much sooner do to the increas in height. If it mostly stays on the street, crank the t-bars, get an alignment and be done with it

[Breecher_7]

I can show you how to do this if you like, it takes a matter of mins.

[88Nightmare]

id be interested. do I need to put some lift blocks on the back end?

[Breecher_7]

No, not unless you want the back end higher. If you crank the t-bars it will level out the front with the back or very close to it. On my dodge it allows to actually clear 35's, but i run 33's. The chevy doesnt have quite as big of wheel wells but still easily clears a 33x12.5 or a 285/70/17 wich is what i run and almost exactly the same as far as size. Just let me know, all you need is a jack, the right size socket, a good long ratchet or breaker bar, some penetrating oil and about 10 mins. Im here to help, i know ill be calling for it myself in the future!!!

[Cryptic]

now how often is it we get a noob on the board that actually posts something worth reading.

+rep to you :thumbsup

[PonyKiller87]

No, not unless you want the back end higher. If you crank the t-bars it will level out the front with the back or very close to it. On my dodge it allows to actually clear 35's, but i run 33's. The chevy doesnt have quite as big of wheel wells but still easily clears a 33x12.5 or a 285/70/17 wich is what i run and almost exactly the same as far as size. Just let me know, all you need is a jack, the right size socket, a good long ratchet or breaker bar, some penetrating oil and about 10 mins. Im here to help, i know ill be calling for it myself in the future!!!

Just don't do any heavy offroading, especialy watch out for turning the wheels when the suspension is compressed at all. Like turning into parking lots with steep aproaches, if you hit one to hard your going to rub, if you hit it really hard you may rearange something.

[Breecher_7]

I have never had ANY problems with rubbing or binding or anything of the sort. My truck takes a pretty good beating to. Unless of course the chevy trucks wheel wells are really that much smaller........ Then again the dodge trucks have a superior torsion design, chevy and fords torsion front ends move diagonally when the suspension is compressed, the dodge moves straight up and down, this could be why I dont have any issues. Either way, ive done this to my friends chevy and put 33's on it with no problems...dont worry about it.

[88Nightmare]

but will I definitely need an alignment after cranking up the torsion bars?

[Breecher_7]

I would recommend it, It knocked my toe off a tiny bit when I did it. Its worth the piece of mind.

[PonyKiller87]

I have never had ANY problems with rubbing or binding or anything of the sort. My truck takes a pretty good beating to. Unless of course the chevy trucks wheel wells are really that much smaller........ Then again the dodge trucks have a superior torsion design, chevy and fords torsion front ends move diagonally when the suspension is compressed, the dodge moves straight up and down, this could be why I dont have any issues. Either way, ive done this to my friends chevy and put 33's on it with no problems...dont worry about it.

Yes the Chevy has alot less room than the Dodge. The guy I mentioned above with a 6" Superlift and 33x12.5 BFG Mud Terrians was getting some rubbing when we took it mudding the first time. From what I could tell its when you turn the front edge of the tire rubs the inner fender, but only if your turning when its all compressed like going over a bump or something.

Im not saying don't do it, just that if you start really getting on it hard expect some rubbing.

[Breecher_7]

That was also on a older truck correct? This is a new one we are talking about unless im mistaken. The 03' that my friend owns that we did this on never had any problems with rubbing running 285's. Mabey that issue only occured on the older trucks.

[88Nightmare]

I have a 2006 chevy I am thinkin about doing this to. I'd be looking for a set of 33's. And it won't see extreme offroading.

[Breecher_7]

If I may, if it sees mostly road use. Stay away from " 33's ", get a good set of 285/70/17" All Terrains, they are basically a 33" tire but with a tread warranty! This is what I run and ive never ever had traction problems especially with the new bridgestones I just put on. Like I said though, ill give ya a hand, takes a matter of mins to do it

[88Nightmare]

whats wrong with goin with like 33" micky thompsons or somethin? not tryin to be a **** or insult your intelligence, just questioning your reasoning :D

Also, how retarded would it look if we cranked up the t-bars before having bigger tires? (i.e. would it be noticeable that the front end was raised up?)

[88Nightmare]

http://www.whiteboystoys.com/images/product/070920061152491015_1.jpg
I like the way that looks. Tires stick out of the wheelwells just a little bit. Id put some fender flares on there though. Nothing too outrageous, probably just go get some OEM Z71 flares. But I like the look of those tires.

[Breecher_7]

It wouldnt look bad at all, thats my personal oppinion though. As far as your question about the 33" tires, this is how I look at it. MT tires do not have a treadlife warranty and although they ARE a radial tire were not designed for street use in there entirety. If you drive the truck on the street 98% of the time to me it is foolish to buy a tire without a warranty or to have an agressive off road tire. I just put on a set of bridgestone dueller A/T Revo's in 285 (33") and they grab better then any other tire i have ever had, in any previous conditions (except the sand since there is no desert around here) I have ran 33" pro comp x-terrains when I lived in califoria because they were good in the sand I was in the desert every weekend but on the street they were horrible and only lasted like 12K miles. To me its better to have a awesome A/T tire with a 50K treadlife warranty. I had these on when it snowed that one time this year and they grabbed like the pavement was dry. With this said, you can take it for what it is, or you can do what suits you, this is just all my own personal oppion but I like to get the biggest bang for my buck and I am very happy with the setup I have now.

[88Nightmare]

sounds like a good idea. What A/T tire has a sweet looking aggresive tread pattern? I like the BFG mud terrains. Can you recommend any? Also, I can't decide what wheels to go with.

[Breecher_7]

If you want to stick out out like that you are going to need a wheel with a hell of an offset, that is what we called the long beach lean, saggin back end with pushed out front wheels, of course that one is 2 wheel drive and is supposed to look like a pre-runner and or trophy truck.........





http://www.whiteboystoys.com/images/product/070920061152491015_1.jpg
I like the way that looks. Tires stick out of the wheelwells just a little bit. Id put some fender flares on there though. Nothing too outrageous, probably just go get some OEM Z71 flares. But I like the look of those tires.

[88Nightmare]

lol. Well I just like the way the tires have a bulgey look to em. Looks tough.

[Breecher_7]

Bridgestone Dueller A/T Revo - This is the tire that won my pick because of performance and warranty

Cooper STT - wicked looking and performing tire, no warranty though that I know of

[Breecher_7]

Personal preferance, but I would never buy another set of goodyear or BF goodrich tires again, every set ive ever tried were garbage other then the goodyear MTR but there treadlife is crap and there way to expensive. I live in reality, my truck sees the street more then the dirt, So a tire thats meant for the street but has awesome off road capability is for me.

[88Nightmare]

yeah for sure. Ive had BFGoodrich in the past and they were pretty good. Right now my truck came stock with some Goodyear tires, dont remember which type, but they arent bad. Pretty quiet. They slip when wet, but maybe thats because of my heavy foot.

[Breecher_7]

Ive had BFG A/T's, BFG M/T's, Goodyear SR/A's (stock tires on the ram shot at 12k) and they were all garbage. The MTR and the X-terrains were very good tires, but pricy and didnt last long. These bridgestones seem flawless and awesome so far though, i am very impressed with them.

[Breecher_7]

Id crank em....get it aligned, then get your new tires.......

[PonyKiller87]

Personal preferance, but I would never buy another set of goodyear or BF goodrich tires again, every set ive ever tried were garbage other then the goodyear MTR but there treadlife is crap and there way to expensive. I live in reality, my truck sees the street more then the dirt, So a tire thats meant for the street but has awesome off road capability is for me.

Amen to that. BFGs suck. Tread life is crap and they are terrible in the snow.

Go with the Revos Ive heard alot of people that are very happy with them.

[Breecher_7]

Amen to that. BFGs suck. Tread life is crap and they are terrible in the snow.

Go with the Revos Ive heard alot of people that are very happy with them.



AGREED

[SmokinRAM114]

I have a 88-98 style chevy fullsize and along with alomst 10 other friends. One of them has the ebay special 2-3" lift with different torsion keys a block and shocks on 16x9 offset rims and 33x10" bfg At and gets no rubbing. My 91 had a 3in body lift and 33x12.5-15 on 15x10 rims and it got pounded off roading and never had a problem with rubding, i also cranked the torsion bars and it had a prerunner like rake. ill find a pic and post it

[Breecher_7]

Different torsion keys are a gimmic, there just reclocked and allow you to get the lift while leaving the adjustment bolt in the same spot, if you tighten the adjuster it does the exact same thing with ALOT less hassle of having to remove the torsion bars to replace the gimmic keys. Your friend that actually paid for differet keys got ripped.

[Breecher_7]

Also, IFS is very picky about being cranked to far, in my experience as long as the front is level or lower then the rear you wont have problems, you start cranking them up to far you screw up your CV shaft angles and it starts geting dangerous

[SmokinRAM114]

if you want to invest in fender flares you can get pocket style cut outs the kind u cut the fenders out it will clear 35's with some trimming of the front bumper corners. b ut i wouldnt suggest it on a new truck like yours..

[Breecher_7]

Nice trucks, not a fan of the simulated bead locks though, think they look kinda gay. They make DOT legal bead lock wheels now, kinda pricy though. Id agree with ya on the fender flares to, i wouldnt go that route unless it was older though or if it was just an off road vehicle, no reason to cut up a nice new truck for no reason

[SmokinRAM114]

Different torsion keys are a gimmic, there just reclocked and allow you to get the lift while leaving the adjustment bolt in the same spot, if you tighten the adjuster it does the exact same thing with ALOT less hassle of having to remove the torsion bars to replace the gimmic keys. Your friend that actually paid for differet keys got ripped.

the keys allow you too lift it with out loosing the ride. Cranked t-bars ride like a lumber wagon, been there done that, thats y i got away from the IFS junk.

[SmokinRAM114]

ill never put another set of those rims on again, i sold them, those pics are old the mud packs in them and itll vibrate the steering wheel till ur hands are numb on the road.

[Breecher_7]

That makes absolutly no sense, the keys do the EXACT same thing that tightening the adjusment screw does. It indexes the key upwards tightening the torsion bars in turn lifting the front of the vehicle, a reclocked key is not going to ride any different at all because the key is going to be set at the same position as a stock one that was adjusted. Replacing the key is pointless and it has not advantages other then making your wallet lighter. And unless your rockcrawling where you have to put all the weight of your vehicle on one wheel, IFS is far supperior to a straight axle and will take just as much if not more abuse due to its flexability.

[Breecher_7]

And as far as riding like a lumbar wagon, my past 2 IFS trucks have actually ridden better after cranking the T-Bars, the front suspesion on IFS trucks is to sloppy from the factory for my taste, it needed to be stiffened up.

[SmokinRAM114]

That makes absolutly no sense, the keys do the EXACT same thing that tightening the adjusment screw does. It indexes the key upwards tightening the torsion bars in turn lifting the front of the vehicle, a reclocked key is not going to ride any different at all because the key is going to be set at the same position as a stock one that was adjusted. Replacing the key is pointless and it has not advantages other then making your wallet lighter. And unless your rockcrawling where you have to put all the weight of your vehicle on one wheel, IFS is far supperior to a straight axle and will take just as much if not more abuse due to its flexability.

the keys are cut to lift the lower a-arm, so the bars do not have to be tighted to the point they bind up, when u tighten the torshion bars u pivot the key making it ride on the end of the key, where the keys alow it to ride on the whole key surface. IFS can take nothing for abuse. My friends and I broke half shafts, ball joints, tie rod ends, and even bent a torsion bar or 2.. Only 2 of us have been smart enough to do a sac. Look at a durmax with IFS. you can barely do any sled pulling with the stock tie rod ends, they bust, bend and toe in like u wouldnt believe. IFS sucks for anything other then a nice street ride.

[Breecher_7]

I will agree that they take less abuse then a Dana 60 will but they are far from inferior. They are not designed from the factory to be a hardcore offroad vehicles. But properly set up IFS is a beast. I know this for a fact. H1's have IFS, you have any idea how hard the military beats the hell out of those things? I can attest to it, i drove those things like I stole em and never had a IFS issue with one. IFS CAN be strong, it just isnt as strong as a solid axle, this is fact and I wont deny that.

[Breecher_7]

And im not going to argue with you over the torsion keys, I completely dissagree with you but its not worth fighting over. Unless you plan to gain 3+ inches from a torsion crank, leave the stock ones in there.

[PonyKiller87]

I will agree that they take less abuse then a Dana 60 will but they are far from inferior. They are not designed from the factory to be a hardcore offroad vehicles. But properly set up IFS is a beast. I know this for a fact. H1's have IFS, you have any idea how hard the military beats the hell out of those things? I can attest to it, i drove those things like I stole em and never had a IFS issue with one. IFS CAN be strong, it just isnt as strong as a solid axle, this is fact and I wont deny that.

Yes an H1 has IFS(and IRS), but you cant really compare an H1 IFS to whats in any other truck. Everything is much much heavier and it uses a geared hub with the disc brakes mounted up by the diff. Its the same basic idea but a completly different animal.

[88Nightmare]

I just want fender flares for the look, Im not going to slice my fenders on a truck that is barely 1 year old. I just wanted some OEM Z71 fender flares for the look.

[Breecher_7]

Yes an H1 has IFS(and IRS), but you cant really compare an H1 IFS to whats in any other truck. Everything is much much heavier and it uses a geared hub with the disc brakes mounted up by the diff. Its the same basic idea but a completly different animal.

I totally agree, I was just making the point that IFS CAN be strong and durable if built and/or modified correctly, all the militarys big Oshkosh 2.5 ton 6x6's are Independent suspension as well..... Once again, just making a point

[88Nightmare]

I wasnt trying to start a debate, I was just meerly asking how to crank up my t-bars just for looks, not to give myself offroad capabilities. as long as this doesnt hurt my offroad capabilities should the need arise...

[Breecher_7]

Nope, Crank'em, Upgrade shocks if and when you feel like it if you want. If you want help, you know where to look!