engine advice

[stock?]

i just pulled the heads off my uncles small block stroker motor (383).
i did that because he broke a valve spring and i thought it might have damaged the piston.
pulled the heads off and found that it did hit the piston but the damage was cosmetic. when i say that i mean there was some marks on the pistons but nothing major, nothing some minor grinding wouldn't take care of.
the valve that hit it was bent slightly but had no gouge marks on it.
the motor has already been bored .40 over and made about 425+ hp before the no2. besides this the motor is healthy no problems. what should we do
1. do some grinding on the piston and put it together with new pushrods,springs,rockers,valves.
2. rebuild and have it bored to .60 with a new rotating ass (all forged )
3. go with a new short block stroker

only serious comments please

[juicedimpss]

fix the valve and shove it back together.
been there done that.
replace the rotating after you really hurt it.

[DurtyKurty]

fix the valve and shove it back together.
been there done that.
replace the rotating after you really hurt it.

x2 What this guy said.

[Prince Valiant]

X3...maybe make sure there are no harsh edges or crevices in the piston as hat could be a "hot spot" during combustion and lead to pre-detonation possibly.

[stock?]

that is what we are going to do and refresh the heads as well.
i also found a stroker small block that is a new block and all forged with quality parts for 2300 it does need a cam thou.

heres a q. roller or mechanical cam?
the engine will have a minimum of 150 shot of nos
i say roller due to its driveability and that fact that you can run a more aggresive lift.
tell me what you think.

[juicedimpss]

the real question is hydraulic roller or solid roller.

either way is going to make good power(if it has a good cyl head)the solid roller will make 20-40 more hp with a similar grind,as the ramp speed can be increased.are you sure you need a stroker lower,there is plenty of potential in a little tree fiddy......i have been pleased with mine :)

[stock?]

we already have the stroker and i believe that heads are canfiled and they are aluminum.
we were thinking hydraulic roller less maintenace involved

[juicedimpss]

hyd roller is alot more street worthy,although i have had small solid roller motors on the street with success also. it really depends how fast you want to go.

[Al]

Stick with what you can and don't go into a spending splurge if you do not need to. Just fight the urge as tempting as it may be.

Mabey some subtle improvements could be done while you are at it such as rockers and lifters.

[stock?]

i tried to tell him we could step up to a 1.6 rocker and that would give him more lift without changing the cam
it is a crower solid lifter 509 in 524 ex i forget the duration
the car with its current setup was supposed to run 11s on the motor and high 10s on the bottle.
he raced my bros old mustang that was supercharged and my uncles pulled away from him on the motor alone.

[FourEyedFord]

I have had no problems with my solid roller on the street, and I do a lot of driving for what it is, right Juiced ;) . If you are not afraid to pop the valve covers off every once and awhile to check the valve lash, its basically "free" horsepower, not to metion a more stable valve train. If you keep the lift @ .600 or below, you shouldn't have any issues on the street with a solid roller.

[stock?]

interesting. i basically want to give him something that is as dummy proof as possible. he has lashed valves in the past. i dont imagine having a cam with more than .550 lift on the intake or exhaust. we do need to shop for a good no2 cam though. i figure about 9.5 to 10.0 compression, the lower end will be forged and aluminum heads. it has a team g manifold but i am trying to talk him into fuel injection but that may be to much. i suppose we already have the carb from the carb shop.
all this is running thru a th350 w/manual valve body and a 4000 stall. gm 10 bolt with 4:10 gears and a spool (wich makes it fun to push) riding in a 68 chevelle

[juicedimpss]

a cam with 250/260 ish @050 duration and a lobe sep of 112-114 will work good for what he wants to do.he will want at least an 850 carb,1 5/8 headers are fine,bigger may help a bit. 3.73-4.11 gear will be good as well.
it is going to lope quite a bit with that combo,should sound really good.

[awsomeears]

I think those nicks will create hot spots

[juicedimpss]

I think those nicks will create hot spots
just knock them down with a sanding wheel on a dremel :thumbsup

[stock?]

you should have heard it when it was running. its got a sweet set of hooker headers and 40 series flowmasters. we meet wensday and will come up with a plan i will let you know what happens.

[awsomeears]

just knock them down with a sanding wheel on a dremel :thumbsup


:thumbsup

[stock?]

this is what we decided we are going to do.
pull the motor and make sure everthing else is okay. if it is we are going to fresh'n it up with new gaskets and bearings. all new studs/bolts from arp.
the heads will be redone with the correct rocker arms and all new hardware.
we are also going with a new roller cam with more lift and duration to take advantage of the nitrous we will be using. we are changing the manifold from a team g to a rpm air gap and will use a gear drive as well.
we will run it till it pops then??????. maybe a big block??
thanks for all of your advice

[juicedimpss]

word from the wise,stay with a good timing chain,those gear drives are not real good for the cam bearings/valvetrain.....too many harmonics.