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88Nightmare
08-11-2006, 10:23 AM
how hard is it to do a rear main seal on an old school sbc350? We have the means to raise the car in the air and all that and get the pan off easily, but once all that is said and done, how hard is it to replace the actual seal? It's a 2 piece I believe. Anyone have some quick tips to git er done easier?

88Nightmare
08-11-2006, 07:17 PM
lets not all jump at this thread at once :goof :durr

Holeshot
08-11-2006, 08:29 PM
The best way is to pull the rear main cap and use a sneekey pete or some call it chinese fingers. grab on side if the seal and push with a small punch or something along thoes lines. Lube the new seal and pull it through the same way. Put a dab of RTV on the to mating halfs of the seals and install rear main cap and torque to spec. The seal is tapered so dont put it in backards.

88Nightmare
08-12-2006, 06:09 AM
do we have to pull the trans and flywheel for this operation?

Holeshot
08-12-2006, 07:34 AM
You shouldn't have to

88Nightmare
08-12-2006, 07:43 AM
ok well we have the sneaky pete device. basically drop the pan, remove rear cap, pull seal, put on new one, add a little rtv, put buttom seal and cap on, torque, reassemble, and enjoy? :D

Lash
08-13-2006, 09:22 PM
lol...yup. I'm sure everything will go that easy :D



I think I'm in need of a new rear main on my mustang so I shouldnt talk :stare

juicedimpss
08-14-2006, 09:27 AM
when i put rear main seals in,i like to stagger the halves,not match them to the bearing cap.also a thin coat of locktite in the bearing cap mating surface(where it meets the block) will keep oil from seeping also.

Prince Valiant
08-14-2006, 12:44 PM
when i put rear main seals in,i like to stagger the halves,not match them to the bearing cap.also a thin coat of locktite in the bearing cap mating surface(where it meets the block) will keep oil from seeping also.
That is how I do it as well...works great.