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MurphysLaw88GT
04-01-2006, 04:47 PM
I am in the process of aquring a '68 Dodge Coronet...nice shape, mint interior, 318, but it comes with a 383/a-833. will have pics soon. i will pick it out of storage in a month :headbang

68RR440
04-17-2006, 03:00 PM
You got any more info to share? Base model, 440 or 500? What color? 2 Door, right? 68's are a good year, is this one local? If so, I may know the car, I been into Mopars my whole life, I know all the local Mopar parts collectors/hoarders, let me know if you need anything... :thumbsup
Don't forget the pics when you get it!

MurphysLaw88GT
04-17-2006, 09:21 PM
got it for sure. it is a white two door hardtop with a black vynl roof. coronet 440. factory ac car (that will change) i got it from my best friend who passed away recently. i have always loved mopars, but a $hitty a$$ way to get one. one of my other best freinds (69 roadrunner's) dad is a mopar parts guru (crossram connection),and i know a bunch of mopar guys as well, but if i need something, i may be letting you know sooner than you may think regerding parts. i will need a power bulge hood soon, color dont matter

purpl72olds
04-18-2006, 05:03 PM
Hey, did you end up selling the 'stang then or do you still have it? You'll have to pm about your late friend if you think i know him and sorry to hear about that. Plenty of mopar connections here as you know too! Dan

MurphysLaw88GT
04-18-2006, 10:14 PM
thanks turkey

MurphysLaw88GT
04-18-2006, 10:23 PM
oh yeah, i still got the moostang. running good, gotta install the gears i got tho.

MurphysLaw88GT
04-23-2006, 10:11 PM
does anyone know where to find a 68 super bee "power bulge" hood. i will try to find a pic

flackjacket
04-24-2006, 08:25 AM
http://chico.craigslist.org/pts/152669781.html

I have a 1970 Bee Bulge hood, but that doesnt do ya any good.

purpl72olds
04-24-2006, 10:04 PM
Did you ever put a clutch in that thing ? I know you told me you were having problems with it last year when i talked to you. Let me know on the gears if you want a hand!

MurphysLaw88GT
04-25-2006, 07:54 PM
dont know how to set backlash and chit. i wanna try to find lift acess. maybe see if bill lamb will lemme use his.

68RR440
04-29-2006, 10:24 PM
I just came across this on another board, figured I'd pass it along...


1968 Dodge Coronet 440, entire car (air) load of parts for sale, no drive-train or body panels, email mikejan1968@sbcglobal.net or ph# 1-262-656-1440 (Wisconsin) many small or one of..reasonable prices...Thanks...Mike

d0nut
05-04-2006, 11:01 PM
I'm trying to think of the last 68 Coronet I saw on the road....

There was a nice yellow 68 R/T that ran around Milw when I had my 69 R/T. I know there was a really rotted 68 R/T in a garage off of the Plainfield curve of the freeway also.

There is/was a 69 sitting on Loomis road the other day that looked real good though.....

DirtyMax
05-05-2006, 09:26 AM
Wonder where my mom's 68 R/T 440 ended up. Crushed, restored, or still rotting somewhere? Pops said it was rusting pretty good when they sold it in 77. I bet it's still around SE Wisconsin in some fashion or another...

Can you believe that was the car he talked her into buying when she turned 16... :headbang

MurphysLaw88GT
05-05-2006, 11:52 AM
A guy my dad works with, rich, says he found his 691/2 6pak bee holding up a sign to a junkyard in the early 80's.

WhiteZCamaro
05-06-2006, 04:16 PM
Its to bad how you got the car though :( :(

MurphysLaw88GT
05-06-2006, 08:26 PM
hey, if you can call me soon, that would be great, cause you are in bumblefvck egypt. got sum hiylllariusssssssss $hit to let you in on. check this site before you go home!!

MuscleGTO
05-09-2006, 11:14 PM
Alohaautomotive, that is a sweet looking ride man

MurphysLaw88GT
05-11-2006, 03:01 PM
scool is out, now i can take delivery of my new domestic whip!!! i will post pics asap

68RR440
05-26-2006, 03:14 PM
scool is out, now i can take delivery of my new domestic whip!!! i will post pics asap
:confused

MurphysLaw88GT
07-15-2006, 10:42 PM
Took delivery of the Coronet Today......yes, yes I know picsorban. ALAS, i will try to find the digi to take pics. Or my freind (69Roadrunner) RAZR phone to upload pics. It is a good 20 foot car. Well you will see soon. if i have problems uploading pics, who could i send them to to post for me? All i have to do is put in the tank, fuel pump, and for god sakes, get some new tires (wikked dryrot)!!!

d0nut
07-15-2006, 10:49 PM
Drop me a line if you needs the pics posted.

If you need them shot I will be out in Pewaukee picking up a bike Sunday, can always stop by and shoot em for ya!

Sean



Took delivery of the Coronet Today......yes, yes I know picsorban. ALAS, i will try to find the digi to take pics. Or my freind (69Roadrunner) RAZR phone to upload pics. It is a good 20 foot car. Well you will see soon. if i have problems uploading pics, who could i send them to to post for me? All i have to do is put in the tank, fuel pump, and for god sakes, get some new tires (wikked dryrot)!!!

Prince Valiant
07-17-2006, 04:07 PM
Congrats on the mopar :thumbsup

purpl72olds
07-21-2006, 10:37 PM
picsorban ?

68RR440
07-24-2006, 07:26 AM
picsorban ?


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b16/parts53186/d9d306c1.gif http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b16/parts53186/2a56976c.gif http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b16/parts53186/603dc211.gif http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b16/parts53186/816f618b.gif

69Roadrunner
07-28-2006, 12:06 PM
nice car. the interior is MINT!!!!!!:thumbsup

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 03:10 PM
how do i resize pics?? it say file too big

nismodave
07-31-2006, 03:41 PM
Congrats....Bring it up to Road America on the 20th.....:thumbsup

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 06:47 PM
can anybody do this...resize i mean.or TELL ME HOW???

68RR440
07-31-2006, 07:18 PM
send them to adam.katy@yahoo.com i'll host them for you

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 07:31 PM
email sent

68RR440
07-31-2006, 08:01 PM
Nice car :thumbsup The 68 Coronet grill is one of the best looking Mopar grills ever, they used the same grill in the 69 Charger 500 :drool:

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m114/adam_katy/100_0619.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m114/adam_katy/100_0616.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m114/adam_katy/100_0617.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m114/adam_katy/100_0620.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m114/adam_katy/100_0615.jpg

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 09:14 PM
thanks adam

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 09:15 PM
at least it has the 26 inch 3 core radiator for days like today, or a nice big block!

68RR440
07-31-2006, 09:30 PM
My sister needed a car once, maybe 10 or 12 years ago, she found a $600 68 or 69 Coronet 4 door, 318 with a 4 barrel, aluminum intake and headers. The thing was green and rust, ugly and loud as hell, but that thing did the longest one wheeler burn outs out of all the cars I've ever driven. She used to get so pissed at me because "your going to wreck my car" :rolf

:3gears:

Prince Valiant
07-31-2006, 09:41 PM
My sister needed a car once, maybe 10 or 12 years ago, she found a $600 68 or 69 Coronet 4 door, 318 with a 4 barrel, aluminum intake and headers. The thing was green and rust, ugly and loud as hell, but that thing did the longest one wheeler burn outs out of all the cars I've ever driven. She used to get so pissed at me because "your going to wreck my car" :rolf

:3gears:That wouldn't have been around here would it have? Green coronet 440 (not the engine...the model)? My buddy that lived across the street had a green coronet, 4 door...we put the headers on (our first attempts at modding), had that thing running great b/f he got rid of it. It was a 318...I've still got the 360 we were going to put in that thing. The car was from saukville. That was the car that made me fall for sleepers and the model for my valiant...

btw, I've got headers lying around for a small block b-body i think...large block headers for sure, but small block, maybe.

68RR440
07-31-2006, 10:02 PM
That wouldn't have been around here would it have? Green coronet 440 (not the engine...the model)? My buddy that lived across the street had a green coronet, 4 door...we put the headers on (our first attempts at modding), had that thing running great b/f he got rid of it. It was a 318...I've still got the 360 we were going to put in that thing. The car was from saukville. That was the car that made me fall for sleepers and the model for my valiant...

btw, I've got headers lying around for a small block b-body i think...large block headers for sure, but small block, maybe.

Thats the car, we picked it up late one night in Saukville, that thing was a tire smoker!!! :thumbsup

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 10:18 PM
small world!

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 10:21 PM
i found the build sheet under the seat, i think it will tell me what gears i have, or i could try the fender tag, i just dont feel like decoding the tag/build sheet rite now

68RR440
07-31-2006, 10:27 PM
It'll be an open 8 1/4", with 2.76 gears, assuming its stock...

68RR440
07-31-2006, 10:29 PM
Here is the link to use for all things Mopar...

http://mymopar.com/tools.htm

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 10:36 PM
it has an 83/4

Prince Valiant
07-31-2006, 10:40 PM
Thats the car, we picked it up late one night in Saukville, that thing was a tire smoker!!! :thumbsup
HA! the story's I could tell about that car. Clayton (the former owner) going to love hearing about this...

Was a very quick car for being just a 318 too...headers and some decent timing really woke that thing up. Sadly, we never took it to the track to get a time...but that car, even with the two barrel beat my buddies 4 barrel 350 powered impala (proof that on older cars, headers/exhaust>intake/carb as first mods). That thing was a decent race for my daytona shelbyZ back when it was just a computer mod and running mid 15's....later on, with more mods the Z would kill it.

That car was also more than a match for a 455 pontiac bonneville my brother owned shortly...it was always close, but the better gearing, quicker revving freeer breathing exhaust of the coronet always got it out ahead to stay...as speeds climbed the 455 would eventually reel the coronet in. What hurt the 455 was that it was choked off with a single exhaust for some reason (duals were standard). The 455 kicked the bucket before we ever got anything underway.

Clay had planned to build a hotter 360 for it, but joined the military and lost interest...that's how I came to his block. It's still just sitting there, machined, waiting for new internals such as a 4.00 crank, .040 over pistons, etc...it'll definintely be the next engine for the valiant IF i keep it..

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 10:44 PM
btw adam, i was at fred englehart's show in elkton mn. this weekend. it was probably the LARGEST assembley of hemi superstock cars ANYWHERE!!! it was awesome. more than 25 1968 hemi dart/barracudas were there, along with other superrstock dodge/plymouth cars. even some superstock buicks, ponchos, chevies etc.took 50 some pics. need you to help post. i met lots of old racers, arnie the farmer beswick, butch leal, dandy d1ck landie, akron arlen vanke etc. all nice guys. got a wikked hemi poster autographed to hell...iwant these pics up soon!!!

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 10:47 PM
i have a awesome pix of a sweet lineup of a few sox and martin cars

68RR440
07-31-2006, 10:47 PM
What year Valiant do you have? I had a 66 2 door post, it was a drag car project I bought cheap off a guy, I had too many cars already, so I gave the car away, for free, along with a 66 Barracuda to John W, the owner of the 65 Dart Convert of recent Culvers fame. That all happened last summer. :mad:

68RR440
07-31-2006, 10:56 PM
btw adam, i was at fred englehart's show in elkton mn. this weekend. it was probably the LARGEST assembley of hemi superstock cars ANYWHERE!!! it was awesome. more than 25 1968 hemi dart/barracudas were there, along with other superrstock dodge/plymouth cars. even some superstock buicks, ponchos, chevies etc.took 50 some pics. need you to help post. i met lots of old racers, arnie the farmer beswick, butch leal, dandy d1ck landie, akron arlen vanke etc. all nice guys. got a wikked hemi poster autographed to hell...iwant these pics up soon!!!

Send them to me, or go to photobucket.com, open a free account, upload them and post them from there, I just want to see them :) .
My dream car is a Hemi Dart, since I was a little kid...
Check these pics out...
:drool:

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/adamsr78/d82c5560.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/adamsr78/9952222a.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/adamsr78/7a54483d.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/adamsr78/6170ac38.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/adamsr78/e21ed03d.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a110/adamsr78/694314f4.jpg

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 10:59 PM
btw, somebody was using an old unrestored 4 speed Hemi GTX as a tow rig, i got some shots with the trailer HOOKED UP!!!!!had old montana plates. this place was rediculus

Prince Valiant
07-31-2006, 11:03 PM
correct...8 3/4's until 72, the first year 8 1/4 started appearing. Many coronet's with 318's used 3.23 gears, unfortunately open diff's too.

Easy rear to work on...you can change the gears in under 30 minutes with a rear like that with some practice.

If I were you, I'd be tempted to do cheap, effective mods for the time being...

1. New electronic ignition...the MP performance distributer and orange box iginition with a Accel hi-po coil, and get the intial timing at around 12 degrees BTDC. (180 bucks for the kit, 35 bucks for the coil)

2. Headers and dual exhaust...the headers themselves are 110 bucks. I might have some used ones you could have for 20. They REALLY wake up a 318/360, and improve the gas mileage. To have exhaust bent is normally ~ 150 bucks cash at an exhaust shop.

3&4 Do at the same time...intake, carb, camshaft. The stock 318 cam is only slightly wilder than a broomstick, seriously. Specing at 240 degrees total duration, with only .373 lift at the valve, it's a chore for a 318 to make power past 4000rpm. A cheap swap meet eddy performer intake (25 bucks usually) with the small summit cam (260 duration, .420 lift, 80 bucks for cam and lifters), and 600cfm holley carb (new, 250 bucks)

5. Don't HAVE to do, but is recomended...go to a swap meet and find some 1985 or later 318 heads...they a)have hardened seats, b)Modern heart shaped combustion chamber with less volume for more compression, c) Institute a "swirl port" design, b) Flow slightly better stock. Have someone like C&S enlarge the valves to 1.88, open the throat for the lager valves with minor bowl blending, good three angle valve job, and new springs (speced for the cam) and they'll flow MUCH better than stock...total cost ~600 bucks. You'll have more compression, better flowing heads to go with the hotter (but still mild) cam, carb, headers, ignition.

With the above mods, you shouldn't need to change your gears or torque converter to appreciate the full benifits of the mods. A car with the set-up I describe, 3.23 gears, 904 auto, in a B-body such as yours should easily run high 14's in the low 90's...switch to more aggressive gears, and that ET could hit mid 14's.

Not only would it be a very stout yet mild-ish 318 (really, one of THE most underbuilt engines ever), it'd be very fuel efficient too....my first 360 in the valiant had most of the above, with just a wilder cam (268 dur/.450 lift), 2.94 gears, 883 manual w/ the .73 OD 4th gear not only ran 14.2's all day at the track, but returned 24-26mpg on trips up north (it could cruise at 70mph at only ~1800 with the effective 2.14 final gearing). Almost wish I could return the car to that point again....

Prince Valiant
07-31-2006, 11:08 PM
BTW, my valiant is a 1976. 4 door, gold. Bought it with a 318 (two barrel, single exhaust), 833 OD manual trans, 2.94 gearing.

It went a best of 16.9@79mph bone stock...

It's undergone many changes...now sporting a nice 360, 833 NON-OD trans, 3.90 gearing. Gone a best of 12.9@106. At this moment, with it's current cam, I'd guess maybe mid high 13's, high 90's...next spring, I'm going back to a cam similar to the cam I had when it was running high 12's...wiped that one, went to one I had laying around.

MurphysLaw88GT
07-31-2006, 11:20 PM
prolly leave it stock untill the 383.i will save money for the 383/trans rebuild. the 318 has 34,000 miles on it, so it has some life left. eventually i will sell the 318/904 auto

Prince Valiant
07-31-2006, 11:30 PM
prolly leave it stock untill the 383.i will save money for the 383/trans rebuild. the 318 has 34,000 miles on it, so it has some life left. eventually i will sell the 318/904 auto
That's fine...I'm the guy that normally goes against the grain a bit when it comes to these things anyways.

ALTHOUGH, one thing to consider is that if you went with just a rebuilt 360 you'd probably end up with ~ 372ci vs 388 of a rebuilt 383, so just 16 less ci's (so nearly the same torque as the small big block), ~100 lbs less weight, less complexity AND cost of the swap (360 uses all the same accessories as the current 318, even bolts to the same tranny...only 1 thing is different, the left side mount...and even your current mount can work with that).

The down side is that the 360 heads, stock for stock aren't as good as the 383's, so barring any head work, the 383 should make more power more easily.

Either way, let me know...glad to talk you through builds that are mild all the way to wild and streetable...

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 11:19 AM
im doing a 68 superbee clone because my freind wanted to turn this car into one, he is dead, so i will turn it into one. the downside, if you notice, the car is hardtop. in 68, superbee/roadrunner were only 2dr post cars. even so, i will still proceed, i really dont care, but i bet i will catch flak from people at shows.

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 11:24 AM
ALTHOUGH, one thing to consider is that if you went with just a rebuilt 360 you'd probably end up with ~ 372ci vs 388 of a rebuilt 383, so just 16 less ci's (so nearly the same torque as the small big block), ~100 lbs less weight, less complexity AND cost of the swap (360 uses all the same accessories as the current 318, even bolts to the same tranny...only 1 thing is different, the left side mount...and even your current mount can work with that).

^^^i have thought about this also, way more weight for a little more cubes. i should maybe just do a 440 and keep the 383 on the side. also, do i make it a 4 speed car sinmce i have all the nessicary swap stuff sans the "hump", or stay auto. 4 speeds are fun but autos are usually faster& way more consistent

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 03:45 PM
4 speeds are WAY more fun...the hump can be purchased through year one iirc. You really can't go wrong either way...

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 05:10 PM
yeah, colins roadrunner is where i fell in love with the 833, and mopars in general...

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 05:24 PM
although....a 383 can be made into a stout piece

purpl72olds
08-01-2006, 05:38 PM
especially with a 400 crank! see clinton (remember the blue challenger!) although it now has a 456 low deck.

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 05:45 PM
you seemed to have read my mind turkey

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 05:54 PM
especially with a 400 crank! see clinton (remember the blue challenger!) although it now has a 456 low deck.You mean 440? The 400 and 383 share the same crank with same stroke and journal sizes, so a 383 w/ a 400 crank yields 383 ci's...the 440 crank, although short for a large block at 3.75 inches, is significantly larger than the 383/400's 3.39 inch stroke...that's shorter than a 350 chevy :wow Combining the 400 w/ 440 crank yields the 452, while far less popular 383/440 crank combo yields 432 w/ .030 overbore (standard bore yeilds 426ci of course)

You are correct...the 383 can be a very stout engine. With the huge bore, small stroke you have the recipe for an engine that can be built to REV...maybe not quite like a honda s2000, but certainly like an older civic si, lol. Even the stock rods, caps, crank, etc won't hesitate to spin 7000+ if the airflow capability is there (heads and cam)...but the oiling system needs improvement if you plan regular trips over 6500 rpm. The biggest thing is that the oil pick-up is inadequate for high high rpm's...but other area's can be improved as well.

The great thing about a big bore, of course, is that big valves work in there with no probs...and big valves generally mean large ports, which means high flow. Short stroke means that for a given engine rpm, the piston is traveling slower...and it's likely that you'll have a great rod/stroke ratio (which the 383/400 does with it being 1.92) meaining less sidewall thrust, and greater dwell ATDC. The 400 is everything the 383 is, only with an even bigger bore (4.34 vs 4.25) and for all intents and purpose looks exactly like a 383 (same deck height, etc).

I DO have large block headers...but I may be needing them soon enough yet :devil

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 08:35 PM
the stock rockers are 1.5:1 correct?i like shaft mount design. i am planning to do roller lifter conversion also

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 08:58 PM
the stock rockers are 1.5:1 correct?i like shaft mount design. i am planning to do roller lifter conversion also
Stock rockers are supposed to be 1.5:1 ratio...but in reality work out to 1.42-1.44 on average.

The stock rockers actually work quite well on older designed cams like the mopar performance ones, most of the magnum cams by comp cams, etc....but start getting into the newer "high velocity" or aggressive ramp cams such as the comp XE series, or hughes, the larger cams may present problems as a push-rod is likely to push through the stock stamped rockers. Upgrading them to tougher ones is a cinch, and is inexpensive (like 30 bucks for 16 new ones) with thicker stampings...but the ratio remains poor.

Crane, comp, et al all have nice upgrades...normally 1.5's yeild a nice power increase themselves. Some have trouble going to 1.6's just because they are lazy and don't want to correctly measure the needed push-rod length to keep the geometry correct and just adjust to suit using the adjustable rockers themselves...either way, it's a win, just make sure you take the time to measure everything correctly.

That's another mopar advantage...the lifter base radius is a large advantage for mopars. With larger lifter bases than either ford or chevy, you can get a more aggressive "ramp" with regards to the camshaft...IE, for a given duration, you can have more lift dialed into the cam, without the edge of the lifter digging into the cam itself. Comp XE even has a special sub-sub line (since the XE is a sub-line of cams itself) that feature patterns taking full advantage of the mopar liftter....other cams include Hughes Engines, and Racer Brown cams. If you go to roller cams, the advantage becomes effectively nill.

If you are going to swap to a roller rocker set-up, I'd strongly recommend going with a mechanical flat-tappet cam from either hughes or racer brown. It'll give you a ton of power, ability to rev, great sound, and still be quite driveable vs a comperable hyd cam of the same size, and make more power than the hyd cam too.

And yes...shaft mounted RULES. VERY EASY to work with...

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:04 PM
the lifter diameter.....is that why people ***** about "chevy lobes" on chrysler cams, because of the difference

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:06 PM
a nostalgia s/s driver/engine builder i know (steve hagberg) recomends racer brown cams, and sold my freind todd a max wedge with a racer brown cam (13.5:1 yikes!!)

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:09 PM
you can run steeper ramps with roller i thought

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 09:11 PM
the lifter diameter.....is that why people ***** about "chevy lobes" on chrysler cams, because of the difference
Yep...most cams are just a copy of the cams that are made for chevy's, just using a mopar blank.

So if you look down the mopar line of cams in a comp catalog, you'll see that the chevy has the same cam lift vs duration as the mopar, even in the "XE" series that supposed to push the limits for the cam ramps...which it does, for a chevy. It's not that these are bad cams...the cam I've got now is a "chevy" cam really...but it COULD be better.

Everyday of the week the cam with more lift, despite same duration, makes more power.

Hell, even if I had more lift, and slightly less duration, I'd have an engine that made more power, yet idles more easily with more vacuum and less hassle...that's why many went to roller cams.

Comp did expand the XE lines to use "mopar" lobes, plus the other aformentioned maker's make exclusively "mopar" cams. Ironically, Mopar Performance sells essentially "chevy" cams...although they are better than the typical comp/crane/eddy cams of years past. Most of the inexpensive cams made now are 30-40 years old as far as design. I'd strongly recomend hughes cams...they may be 100-150 bucks more...but they make SERIOUS power with no loss of driveability.

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 09:18 PM
you can run steeper ramps with roller i thoughtyep...but a mechanical lifter is a) cheaper, b) lighter, c) will allow the valvetrain to last longer on the street (springs, retainers, rockers due to the less valvetrain weight and subsequent heavier springs needed) and d) Many argue that a mechanical is just as effective at making power because the initial ramp is more aggresive on a mechanical flat-tappet cam...IE, for the first .020 lift, the flat-tappet cam is raising faster than the roller, which due to it's weight, etc comes off a little slower.

But, either way, you can't really lose.

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:20 PM
the cam is where i do NOT want to cheap out, as it plays too heavily in performance/driveability to want to save a few bucks. dont want regrets, as that means spending more $$ to get the rite one later

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 09:30 PM
the cam is where i do NOT want to cheap out, as it plays too heavily in performance/driveability to want to save a few bucks. dont want regrets, as that means spending more $$ to get the rite one later Well, actually the one place where you don't want to cheap out on is the heads...if anything allocate the most you can there IF you are planning on making over 400hp.

I'm a big fan of the wild heads, mild cam school of thought...I'd rather drive a 450hp 383 with mildly ported eddy heads and a milder cam than a 450hp 383 with stock-ish heads and a wild cam...either of which is feasible as that's about what the stock large block heads can support in stock form (actually around 480-500 depending on the casting)

It's just that the better heads, milder cam engine will idle better, make more vacuum, be easier to tune, have a broader power band, get better gas mileage, feel faster, and will just be a generally better engine


Beyond 450hp though, it becomes seriously diminiishing returns on a non-ported, stock headed mopar as the cam needs to be really big.

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:32 PM
i have the 906's with the motor, maybe i mite pickup a 34'000 mi 67 440hp with the closed chamber 915's

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:34 PM
btw, how u wipe the lobes on your hughes cam?

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 09:50 PM
Bad oil...most of the modern oils lack enough zinc for high pressure lubrication that is needed for older engines with flat-tappet cams. The zinc content is lowered to lengthen the life of catalytic converters and O2 sensors that use platinum, and don't need as much zinc since they use low friction roller lifters/rockers.

So while I used the proper pre-lube, followed proper procedures, etc, I still suffered failure within 50 miles of initial start-up. This is actaully becoming a more comon problem in the last 3-4 years, with numerous articles/threads questioning the common failure of cams.

Now I use "racing" formulated oils, or oil made for diesel engines (rotella, etc) as they have the zinc content needed for older engines. When you start up an engine with a newly installed cam, not only should you have the proper pre-lube and proper oil, but you should also run a can of GM EOS in there as well.

I'd be cautious on 915 heads...the problem is that they need to be MADE into great heads. They generally have small intake, and small exhaust valves, and aren't great for flow. By the time you've have a machine shop do the requisite work to get them to flow like a good set of 906's, you've spent almost enough money to buy brand new closed chamber eddy's that blow stock 906's out of the water, and make stock 915's look like heads for a flat-head ford.

Closed chambers are great...but I'd rather have great flowing open chambered 906's vs poor flowing, higher compression closed chambered 915's. Flow is where the power is at.

Of course, the eddy's make the best of both worlds with less weight to boot (total of 50lbs).

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 09:57 PM
the reason i wanted roller is because someone (possibly the prince himself) posted a link showing modern oils dont have the proper amount of zinc and other stuff to be compatible with flat tappet. i would like to avoid wiping the lobes out!!!and less friction to boot. my freind has got a 69 hemi roadrunner, to avoid fvcking the lobes...what kind of oils should he run, i belive it has some kind of sinthetic in it.rather safe than sorry, because hemis have a more agressive spring i think

Prince Valiant
08-01-2006, 10:05 PM
Well, most the problems are occuring on initial fire-up on a freshly rebuilt engine, or one with a brand new cam, when you wouldn't be using synthetic anyways, so use of the "racing" or "diesel" oils is what I'd use. Generally, you can find an oil supplement that will add zinc at many parts store, but I'm not positive...GM EOS should be fine...but adding some to synthetic, or just adding a quart of rotella with another 5 of synthetic is fine too. Generally AMS or Royal Purple synthetic oils have more than enough zinc in their synthetic...

MurphysLaw88GT
08-01-2006, 10:23 PM
once i know what is going on with the motor build (financially), i will have better direction perhaps. but this i KNOW....i want stock APPERARING, but with more bite:devil. i love the sleeper look

Prince Valiant
08-02-2006, 07:41 AM
To make is "stock appearing" is fairly easy enough...because it's "how stock do you want it to appear" For some, they'll accept headers and still consider it "stock appearing". Hell, some will accept eddy heads, performer rpm intake, holley DP carb, just as long as it's tucked neatly under the correct air cleaner and the engine is painted correctly with the correct engine accessories and a stockish looking ignition and fuel lines, etc....and then there are some that "stock appearing" essentially means that everything that can be viewed or touch must essentially be stock...so to get extra power one needs to have extrude honed intake and exhaust manifolds, highly modded stock carb, trick roller camshafts w/ switched firing orders, that sound stock until you get on it, very ported heads, etc...

68RR440
08-02-2006, 09:44 AM
btw, somebody was using an old unrestored 4 speed Hemi GTX as a tow rig, i got some shots with the trailer HOOKED UP!!!!!had old montana plates. this place was rediculus

:wow :stare :wow :stare :)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/68RR440/fce9f076.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/68RR440/378b9046.jpg

This is what came off the trailer :stare :wow :devil ...

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/68RR440/9681bbf1.jpg

MurphysLaw88GT
08-02-2006, 10:59 AM
^^^Did you see the photobucket account!!!it works haha. that particular hemi barracuda has no engine currently, he said it sat since 1981?....i know the guy, does AWESOME bodywork!!!we had to deliver 5 oilpans to that guy. didnt see what he arrived in LOL:rolf

purpl72olds
08-02-2006, 07:31 PM
Sorry prince, i was taking a guess on that motor combo earlier, I knew it was either a 400 or 440 crank cause the engine i seen was a pieced together motor with that made good power for the parts that were in it.

MurphysLaw88GT
08-02-2006, 11:26 PM
that challenger sounds awesome^^^^

MurphysLaw88GT
10-01-2006, 09:39 PM
Took the carb off today

DirtyMax
10-04-2006, 09:01 AM
Here's a pic of Feature Pony's "Coronet"

http://www.bcsm.net/forum/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=17503

MurphysLaw88GT
10-04-2006, 10:19 AM
i always wanted an a12 coronet! i found one two years ago, but dude wouldnt sell

MurphysLaw88GT
03-12-2007, 11:39 AM
I am in the process of rebuilding the carb on the dodge as we speak. The thing was filled with a brown silt in the inside. It will be back together later tonite after work. I will put it on the car later on, maybe this weekend. Then i will fire it up and see if it runs any better. Also, I was trying to free the idle mixture screws (they WOULD NOT turn) and i got em loose, but they had been turned all the way out (both of em). Im guessing that that also will help it run for shit. I just could not get them to turn when on the car. I had to soak them buggers in penetrating oil. I just have to title it, throw collector plates on it, put the gas tank back in it, and drive it. Noe that does not mean i woudnt like to get tires, as the ones on the car are the same ones from the factory!

Prince Valiant
03-12-2007, 02:59 PM
Let me know how it goes....and as far as the idle mixture screw, turn them all the way in, then back each one out two revolutions. That'll be an approximate starting point to start the car on...then you'll be able to fine tune it on the car.

MurphysLaw88GT
04-06-2007, 11:23 PM
I put on the BBD, and I just put the screws back to where the originally were, and the car ran AWESOME!!!!!!! Well, it ran like a car with 34,000 miles should. settled into a perfect idle, NO stumbles!