Help/Info on Painting My Stang

[danwaite]

I am going to try and paint my stang, with real paint other than just spray cans like last year . My question to you guys is any body in the Milwaukee area that would be able to help or at least have some info on for me on painting. I have a 30 Gallon compressor, and a HVLP paint gun. I would like to go down to bare metal, but don't know if I really need to or not, the body does not need much work, only in a few spots. I guess I just need a helping hand to give me tips on how to prep etc. I would also like some info on doing plastic work for the bumpers I have a few cracks that I would like to fix.
If anybody can give me some ideas just post here or email me at danwaite@wi.rr.com
I would greatly apprishiate it here are some pics as my car sits now, and hopefully once it gets a little warmer I can get a start.

Here is some paint I am looking at but did not know if it was good or not considering how cheap it is.
http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_midnightblue.html

http://photobucket.com/albums/y285/danwaite/MyStang/
Also curious if any one does any cheap paint jobs that would look half decent and last a couple years.

Thanks Alot guys in helping me make my Stang and any info is apprishiated.

Dan Waite

[floaters]

i think z28girl knows how to paint pretty good ask her

[danwaite]

I would rather not go through her she messed my friends car up, and ripped him off.

[pOrk]

That paint is junk, go with name brand such as PPG or Sikkens for best results. What kinda gun do you plan to use? Dont take it to bare metal, if this is your first paint job its not going to be perfect so no point in taking it all the way down. Use a large tip gun for shooting your primer sealer ( use epoxy prime on parts that you go all the way down to the metal ) and shoot sealer over the whole car to prevent lifting through the epoxy. Oh yah, make sure your primer is going to work with your base coat, and your base coat with your clearcoat. Painting is the easy part, its all in the prep how your car will turn out. Good luck

[danwaite]

That's what I figured, I probally will just take it some where, I want he car to look half decent. Any ideas for a paint job around 5-600 ? I just want something better than spray paint.

[floaters]

it was a joke

[Slow Joe]

Maaco...

[Robs_b20b]

Maaco is even running a special until the end of Feburary Presidental Package 1/2 off $250 plus $100 prep

[Berettaspeed]

I painted my car outside LOL. i had bugs trying to crawl on it and had to spray over them to sttop them from tracking.It was my first time painting a car. LOL its not hard to paint, but you need to have the basic movement down pat for a good paint job. you also have to know when its going to run/drip. if you can't tell, then you will either get orange peel up the ass or dripps everywhere. I would say get a HOOD from any car at a junk yard and practice on that with it laying flat. the hood and the roof are the hardest part IMO. so if you can get a nice job on the junk hood. then i would do the car. i used the one stage paint and it works fine. the thing is bird crap eats it. its just an enamal paint. same thin macco uses on the cheap jobs. the 2 stage they charge alot more for starting @ 600 easy. some enamal jobs i have seen them charge 600 for.. I spent like 300 for a gun a bunch of sand paper and paint and hardner. and alot of mineral spirts to clean up.

put on the first coat very light..where the original paint you can kinda still see, until you have the whole body panel like that..but mostly the new color you want to show(like a mist) let is sit for like 5 or 10 min then go over it again and lay a thicker coat on. you want to get this nice an glossy, just before the paint would drip is the perfect shine. and remember it will move a bit and this is when it will drip. so give it a good 5 mins to set if you are not sure. you can alwasy add more paint....

get the cracks and stuff first so you won't have to go back and opps i missed a spot. then you might add too much paint in that area.

remember don't hold the trigger when going back and forth. squeeze and pull back then release when your about to change direction. this will prevent dripps and a thick spot. just picture a half pipe and when you reach the top don't spray. and when your coming down ease into the area you want painted. its hard to explain... like this *car* ( *your body* the ends is where you let off and start. you go back and forth in a half circle....

if your doing a 2 coat its easier for the color, but for the clear its the same as above... and before you add the clear wet sand it wil a 600 grit paper. then with the finish job use 1200....nice and smooth...then invest in a nice electric buffer.

remember you can always wet sand....

ill paint your stuff for cheap... but right now you would want a heated garage. and if your doing it at home, i would let it sit for like a week, and make sure birds don't crap on the car.

[Berettaspeed]

Here this is an outside in the back yard paint job...with some wet sanding..ohh and make sure you sand the car good first. that also makes a big difference on how the outcome will be. use 220grit at the least.


these are a 1200 wet sand then buff..at least a year or more since the paint job.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v729/Berettaspeed/BerettaFront.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v729/Berettaspeed/BerettaGTZR-F.jpg

[Irish]

I am impressed. What would you charge to do an 86 mustang? What do you need toadd to the paint to make it flexible on the poly. bumper caovers?

[JC70SS]

SAve your money and do it the right way. ALso only use PPG or Dupont paint.

[Berettaspeed]

well i don't know much about paint, i just spray away..LOL im not like the best or anything, but im better than most macco jobs...LOL i dunno depends on the rust and if i had to sand it and such.. but not much.. i would say just...........300 give or take... i wouldn't charge more, unless its a big van or something, because like i said im not the best. i would even help with the wet sanding.....which macco sucks at...hell i don't think they even try. and i have seen some bad jobs leave from there...sorry for cutting on macco, but its true.. im sure some of their people do good jobs, just not what i have seen. i have painted one car since and my paint has gotten better. but ball park 300ish

the paint can get high depending what you go with..i went with cheap enamal for 40$ a gallon then they had 80$ for a quart??or pint

but go cheap for your first time...and have fun...

[Slow Joe]

The only reason I said Maaco is 'cause my cousin got the Embassador paint job on his Celica, and for $300 I must say it looks good... Then again he didn't care as long as it wasn't peeling, and the rust was gone... Even though there was hardly any...

[Irish]

well i don't know much about paint, i just spray away..LOL im not like the best or anything, but im better than most macco jobs...LOL i dunno depends on the rust and if i had to sand it and such.. but not much.. i would say just...........300 give or take... i wouldn't charge more, unless its a big van or something, because like i said im not the best. i would even help with the wet sanding.....which macco sucks at...hell i don't think they even try. and i have seen some bad jobs leave from there...sorry for cutting on macco, but its true.. im sure some of their people do good jobs, just not what i have seen. i have painted one car since and my paint has gotten better. but ball park 300ish

the paint can get high depending what you go with..i went with cheap enamal for 40$ a gallon then they had 80$ for a quart??or pint

but go cheap for your first time...and have fun...

If I did it in the warmer months, how long would the whole process take provided you didn't have to do any body work?

[pOrk]

Did you say sand with 600 between base coat and clear? Thats the dumbest thing I've ever heard

[Berettaspeed]

why is 600grit wet sand paper dumb???and putting a reason for it being so dumb would be alot more helpful

it makes for a smooth finish before the clear coat goes on, so the suface is better.right? is that too fine or too coarse?? its what i did on the last car i did.(integra) and it turned out fine. its been about 9 months or so.... no peeling yet and no chipping. like i said im no pro or anything, its just something i have done 2 times and enjoyed both times lol


lets say we would have to sand right there on the spot because you want the cleanest possible surface. some people will prime the car and wait forever and a day. well the thing is you still have to sand it just before painting. when you are done sanding you want to wipe the car down or wash it to get rid of any oils or dust from sanding or your hands. it took me about 10 hours on the last car i did. from sanding, cleaning, and the longest maksing. painting is the fast part. if you helped i would charge alot less. its part of the fun painting your own car. so starting early in the morning 8am or so.. so there is no moist air from the morning(if we have to do it outside). but i say 10 hours MAX. then let it sit for about a week. then you can wet sand any imperfections after about a month. to bring out a nicer smooth finish and shine.

[Al]

Get yo self some lit'ture!

Go to Amazon and type in "how to paint yout car" and click search. There are quite a few books which will give you alot of information.

I say DO NOT go down to the metal. Try a scuff-n-spray.

If you are on a budget, use PPG Omni paint. A gallon of a common color ranges from 26-58$ plus reducer. The next step up is the regular PPG which costs about 35% more.

Know the difference between high and low solids paints!!! High solids paints cost more per gallon, but use less paint to cover a surface.

Go to Milwaukee Paints at 35th and North or 6xth and Beloit. The guys there are EXTREMELY helpfull.

My best advice to you is that you should find some way to control dust in your shop. My cheap method was to place a square air filter in front of a box fan. Another method of dust control is to hose down your garage. If you are not willing to use your garden hose on the wall, use a wet paint roller to get the dust off the walls and ceiling.

TEMP CONTROL is also critical. Pay attention to the working temps of the reducers. Usually, the range is about 5-7 degrees. Pay attention to humidity as well.

Some of my better advice is that you avoit NAPA, no-name or CarQuest paint.

Overall, you need a book or two to get all of the info.

[Berettaspeed]

yeah temp is a biggy.. I painted one fender by its self, and it was like 50 out side.. turned out crappy and super orange peel.

[pOrk]

You dont sand basecoat before clearing, atleast not where I'm from

[0TransAm0]

am impressed. What would you charge to do an 86 mustang? What do you need toadd to the paint to make it flexible on the poly. bumper caovers?

you buy a chemical to add to the paint so it can flex a little and wont crack..i forget what is called tho..

[pOrk]

you buy a chemical to add to the paint so it can flex a little and wont crack..i forget what is called tho..

Its called Flex Additive, and nobody uses it anymore. New paint already has it mixed in. Unless you are using some really cheap ass off brand paint, you dont need it

[Irish]

Pork, you never replied to my PM.

[lotsals1]

i think z28girl knows how to paint pretty good ask herOMFG :rolf

[lotsals1]

when are you painting it and in what conditons ? temp is key for a do it your self,r .And most high end shops do wet sand their base coats but thats for a 5 diget paint job,if you get a lot of overspray it would be in your best interest wetsanding the base is called color sanding "foose" codington" ect. all do it that way ,thats why the pait jobs on all of their cars look like glass

[lotsals1]

I am impressed. What would you charge to do an 86 mustang? What do you need toadd to the paint to make it flexible on the poly. bumper caovers?dupont flex agent or something of the same quality

[Al]

You dont sand basecoat before clearing, atleast not where I'm from

Wetsand???

[pOrk]

when are you painting it and in what conditons ? temp is key for a do it your self,r .And most high end shops do wet sand their base coats but thats for a 5 diget paint job,if you get a lot of overspray it would be in your best interest wetsanding the base is called color sanding "foose" codington" ect. all do it that way ,thats why the pait jobs on all of their cars look like glass

Take a look at anything Chad at Crash Customs has painted, and tell me they dont look like glass. I have never sanded basecoat before, and niether has he :thumbsup His **** looks awesome, although I still need some expierence. :banana

[lotsals1]

Its called Flex Additive, and nobody uses it anymore. New paint already has it mixed in. Unless you are using some really cheap ass off brand paint, you dont need ityah it works like shizit always add -thats if you want it to last that is and it is added to the clear not the base because base is so thin ;) if you dont add it in the clear it will spider web :rolleyes:

[lotsals1]

Take a look at anything Chad at Crash Customs has painted, and tell me they dont look like glass. I have never sanded basecoat before, and niether has he :thumbsup His **** looks awesome, although I still need some expierence. :banana trust me if you look at the 2 guys vs chads its night and day ,sheesh dood are you in love with this guy or somethin-why is it every post on a how to do something you bring up crash ,Are you the crash customs poster child ,GAWD thats annoying

[Al]

Take a look at anything Chad at Crash Customs has painted, and tell me they dont look like glass. I have never sanded basecoat before, and niether has he :thumbsup His **** looks awesome, although I still need some expierence. :banana

IMO- he just really knows what he is doing if wetsanding is not needed. :thumbsup

[Berettaspeed]

the thing is wet sanding takes alot of time... this is why most shops do not do it.. and yes you can have a good looking paint job without wet sanding depending on skill. if your good you won't need to wet sand to have a nice looking paint job. but no matter what if you wet sand ANY paint job it will be night and day....it always gets better...given you don't go overboard and take off paint. or burning when buffing...another risk shops don't want to take. and you can feel the difference.
plus labor would most likey go wayyyyyy up with wetsanding... which is why the other guy said 5 digit...wow

wetsanding can get messy. and you have to wait for the paint to cure before you wet sand. like the color coat you can usually wet sand faster than the finish clear coat. i don't know why though.

[Al]

the thing is wet sanding takes alot of time... this is why most shops do not do it.. and yes you can have a good looking paint job without wet sanding depending on skill. if your good you won't need to wet sand to have a nice looking paint job. but no matter what if you wet sand ANY paint job it will be night and day....it always gets better...given you don't go overboard and take off paint. or burning when buffing...another risk shops don't want to take. and you can feel the difference.
plus labor would most likey go wayyyyyy up with wetsanding... which is why the other guy said 5 digit...wow

wetsanding can get messy. and you have to wait for the paint to cure before you wet sand. like the color coat you can usually wet sand faster than the finish clear coat. i don't know why though.

What I want to do for wetsanding is to make a little motor driven tool to oscilate a piece of sand paper about 1/4 inch at about 100 oscillations per minute. I'm guessing a 4$ motor from american science and surplus and some small scraps of lumber and a spounge will constitute the majority of the device. Also, I was thinking about using a small water pump and a magnetic clip to hold a small water line up so all I have to do is move my custom tool across the surface to get wetsanding results.

[Berettaspeed]

the thing is you want to go in one direction.. so don't get a circular moving one. at least from what i have read. also maybe another reason you don't see wet sanding tools is because, you cant feel what your removing, its more of somthing you want to take closer attention to. its usually something you do not want to rush either, since its somthing you do to get all the detailed defects out not just the easy to see ones.. i use a spray bottle and just a little square(maybe 5" by 5")( i also try and not to fold the paper to prevent sharp corners) of 800g to 1200g depending how bad the oragne peel or drips are. then always finishing up with 1200g..

but if you want try it and try the old way, see what the outcome is. i have never tried it so i dunno how it would turn out..