Shop for Slicks/Wheels

[383Firebird]

I was wondering what's a good shop around here for ordering slicks and wheels or even just a good shop that can mount slicks?

[Russ Jerome]

C and S meets all the online pricing of Summit/Jegs.
No shipping fee's.

http://www.google.com/local?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&q=c+and+s+performance&near=Butler,+WI+53007&sa=X&oi=locald&radius=0.0&latlng=43105405,-88071043,9517410879617556491

Slicks fall on with little effort, require tubes so no
issue airing up.

[383Firebird]

Anyone else have any ideas for anywhere in the Milwaukee area?

[scottie K]

Fast Times on 92 st John and mike are great guys they will also play the price wars

you will usally have the stuff the next day

me and arron and most of the people buy from those guys

give em a call 414-321-3260 i think

[BAD LS1]

I agree with Scotty on Fast Times too. PS, i ran 3 sets of slicks so far with no tubes, and they do push on pretty easy by hand actually, i used pure dish soap around the beads then aired them up, and when the soap drys it makes a gummy seal so no air can leak, worked great for me thus far.

[383Firebird]

Is it more based on how good the slick is or the wheel if you would come up with leaks if you ran w/o tubes?

[Russ Jerome]

If you slick's say "tubes required" you stand a good chance of not
passing tech inspection at track's.

Most slicks will bleed air thru sidewall over time, thin bias carcas
not designed for tubeless long term use. Little soapy water will
look like a foamy river on sidewall. Some slicks (MH) seem to last
all winter with air in them. Some people love tube's while other's
say there a waste of time/money.

Little info from MH we stumbeled on:
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77333

[BAD LS1]

Is it more based on how good the slick is or the wheel if you would come up with leaks if you ran w/o tubes?


If you look at most rims that are intended to have slicks monted on them, as well as the slicks them selves. You'll notice the beads and the bead groove on teh rim arent as defined or as cupping as a regular rim, so that makes thier tendency to bleed air so great.

I personally dont like tubes because they add so much more weight to the rim, i just use metal thread in valve stems like required and i also use rim screws which would be required with tubes, not mandatory if no tubes are used.

[Russ Jerome]

Here some more info from MT if your board:

M/T states that tubes will enhance the reaction time, increase the stiffness of the tire, and reduce sidewall shock and deflection when launching the car. Finally, the manufacturers polled claim that a tube helps with consistency because the tube actually absorbs some of the heat from the tire.

Which tubes are correct? In drag racing, a natural rubber tube is the most common. It's not a good idea to use tubes designed for large trucks because they are not sized correctly. For the most part, each manufacturer of drag race street tires will have an appropriate tube size for a given tire. What if you don't use the correct tube? Figure on replacing tubes often. One of the biggest causes of tube failure is the use of an incorrectly sized tube.

According to Mickey Thompson Tech Bulletin No. 2, you may notice a low spot or wrinkle in a tube-type tire. This is often caused by the wrong tube size. It can also be caused by a faulty installation. To confirm this, break down the tire and rotate it on the rim. You'll note that the low spot (if it is still there) has not moved. If you break down the tire and replace the tube with a standard tubeless-style valve stem, then the low spot or wrinkle is eliminated. This should tell you that the tube is the root of the low spot. To eliminate wrinkles, the tube must be inflated and deflated during installation. If the wrinkle persists, you may have to lubricate the tube with talcum powder and/or break down the tire and work the wrinkles out by hand.

[Russ Jerome]

This topic peaked my interest, reading other boards 80%
of the guy's do not use tube's...undecided myself now :(